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Any easy way to Bleed Brakes & ABS Module?
- Thread starter ris
- Start date
Easy Rider
New member
Do you have experience bleeding ABS systems ?
And do you have access to the diagnostic computer ? I think that is necessary to do it "right".
And do you have access to the diagnostic computer ? I think that is necessary to do it "right".
ris
Member
I have experience with bleeding ABS brakes. I don't have BUDS.
trikermutha
New member
I believe there is a procedure. Maybe rear then left then right to bleed. If I can find my annual I will post.
ris
Member
I have the procedure. I am looking for ideas as to how to get to the ABS module.
SPYD3R
Active member
BRAKES
for what it's worth...
i just bled the brakes on my F3 about 2 months ago, and DID NOT bleed the VCM.... i now have ridden about 1000 miles of smiles with NO ISSUES....
when i bled them, i used a vacuum assist unit, and pulled an entire bottle of Brake Fluid (32 oz.) tru the system... i would imagine that every bit of the old fluid has been replaced... NO computer codes came up, and my brakes feel better than ever now...
jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R
for what it's worth...
i just bled the brakes on my F3 about 2 months ago, and DID NOT bleed the VCM.... i now have ridden about 1000 miles of smiles with NO ISSUES....
when i bled them, i used a vacuum assist unit, and pulled an entire bottle of Brake Fluid (32 oz.) tru the system... i would imagine that every bit of the old fluid has been replaced... NO computer codes came up, and my brakes feel better than ever now...
jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R
There will remain a wee bit of brake fluid in the ABS unit without using the BUDS to cycle the valving. Is that an issue? There is a certain amount that remains in the calipers that will not be purged out and that's the area subject to the highest heat, i.e., thermal break down of the DOT 4 fluid. The specs say to replace the fluid when it has water content of 4% or greater (see information related to the H-D recall for brake fluids).
The brakes are a closed system. There is no circulation between the ABS module and the calipers, rather a column of fluid. The reason to purge the brake fluid is to remove the potential for high temperatures boiling the water in the brake fluid creating a compressible column of gas and spongy brake control. The highest likelihood of high temperatures is the brake pedal (due to proximity to the exhaust) and the calipers (due to frictional heating).
The ABS system on the Spyder was adopted from an automotive system, which typically receive far less attention than our Spyders.
Wayne
The brakes are a closed system. There is no circulation between the ABS module and the calipers, rather a column of fluid. The reason to purge the brake fluid is to remove the potential for high temperatures boiling the water in the brake fluid creating a compressible column of gas and spongy brake control. The highest likelihood of high temperatures is the brake pedal (due to proximity to the exhaust) and the calipers (due to frictional heating).
The ABS system on the Spyder was adopted from an automotive system, which typically receive far less attention than our Spyders.
Wayne
Purple Guy
New member
It's a bit easier to get at if you take the left front tire off...
Though the manual say you need BUDS, I have done at least 6 full brake fluid changes with no problems not using BUDS.
I always pump my brake pedal a few times to make sure I have good pressure before I turn the key on...
stevencovert
Member
This is encouraging. My wifes 2008GS has the "double pump" brake pedal. It'll drop about 1.5" the first pump, then only about 1/2" the next and is really solid. She wants ONLY the 1/2" pump. I assumed the bike needed a bleed, but was terrified of the VCM. :yikes::yikes:! I'll have to search for some YouTube videos.
Steve
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Do you know what all the BUDs process does? I don't. But after I had the brake line off the rear caliper and bled the rear brake I took it to the dealer for a BUDS check. I was thinking since Nanny is tied into the brake system there may be some calibration or resetting in BUDS that needs to be done to ensure that the VSS can do it's thing properly if it ever needs to. As I see it there are two aspects to the braking system, braking caused by pressing the pedal, and braking controlled by Nanny, especially the ABS. If you don't do the BUDS part of the procedure how can you be sure the Nanny part of the braking process will work properly?
PMK
Active member
Are you certain the Nanny will apply the brakes?
Nanny will unwind throttle input.
The computer, I guess it could be deemed the Nanny causing it, will attempt to prevent wheel lockup, via the ABS controller and wheel sensors and rings.
Never have I heard Nanny has the ability to apply the brake.
billybovine
Active member
PMK
Active member
Agree.
Did not interpret the other guys post regarding the rear brake to be focused on stability control in extreme manuevers and working the front brakes. Nanny does not have brake control of the rear wheel, except ABS.
There is another video also that explains all this and more a bit more in depth.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Not really. I just wanted to make clear to Purple Guy that even though he has experienced no issues with brake bleeding, if he hasn't checked things with BUDs afterwards he really cannot know it there is gremlin lying in wait to mess things up when he really needs the system to function correctly.
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