JohnRuckus
Member
Just wondering what method people prefer when jacking/lifting their Spyders/Rykers: Ramps, floor jacks, or the Spyder/ATV/Motorcycle lifts?
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What do you prefer to use for lifting your Spyder/Ryker?
- Thread starter JohnRuckus
- Start date
Depends on what I'm doing, but mostly, I raise my RT for an oil change using car ramps for the front and a small conventional floor jack with a block of wood under the rear shock for the rear. If I'm working on the front for whatever reason, I use the HF motorcycle lift.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
I use jacks or ramps. I tried lifting it by hand once but it was just too heavy.
I use a HF ATV lift left over from my Venture days and ramps for as jack stands. If I am doing tires I just use the HF jack
I use a HF ATV lift left over from my Venture days and ramps for as jack stands. If I am doing tires I just use the HF jack
Mikey
Well-known member
X 2
JayBros
Well-known member
I have a Craftsman Motorcycle/ATV Lift, 50191 that is a lot like the Harbor Freight lift, but I purchased it because the hydraulic system was much superior to my son's HF lift, as it was not at all smooth lowering his bikes that were not anywhere near as heavy as a Spyder.
The original Pitbull owner retired. The business was bought and continues with new owners. You will need to call them (google the number). I am not sure what product lines were continued after the new owners took over.
hogmemberisold
Member
I pull the trike up on ramps and lift the rear wheel and put a concrete block under it. Then I lift the front end with a Pit Bull and use jack stands on concrete blocks. Quick and easy.
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Edited to change cinder to concrete.
- Edited to change cinder to concrete.
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KW1M
Member
I used this setup for sway bar and front shocks: https://www.spyderlovers.com/thread...ormance-swaybar-wilbers-longer-shocks.161008/
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
I'm sorry but I just think that would be very dangerous. You wouldn't catch me under there trying to loosen a bolt or tighten one.
Yep, me too! I've seen too many supposedly 'good condition' cinder blocks collapse under lighter loads on stands like that; even occasionally under a wheel, or other things without quite the same concentrated point loads!
Wooden blocks, maybe! Cinder blocks, or even standard fired clay house bricks, never! 
hogmemberisold
Member
I changed the description from cinder block to concrete block, my bad...
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
Looks like cinder blocks to me as they have an opening on the top where the jack stand is.
Gwolf
Well-known member
It is not the holes in the blocks that make the difference. Cinder blocks originally used coal ash as a filler in the mix. Now they use other ash by products. Concrete blocks use only high strength materials in the mix and are much stronger than cinder blocks. The terms are used interchangeably by people who don't know the difference. Cinder blocks are OK for garden walls or holding back raised beds, but are not suitable for any load bearing walls in construction.
A standard 8 x 8 x 16 inch cinder block weighs approximately 25-30 lbs, while a concrete block of the same size is heavier, often around 30-35 lbs
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