Approach angle with any toy hauler on the market is not a problem. The transition you need to worry about with ramp to bed! I don’t care how steep the ramp is that can be fixed in 5 minutes of work. I have loaded Spyders in my 38’ Fuzion, 24’ work and play and a Rouge that is literally the tallest toy hauler on the market hundreds of times. I have even done it in a Millennium Class G all with no problems. All you need is to make a mini lifting blocks for your rear tires on the truck. Take 4-6 2x10 pieces of wood about 18 inches long. Nail or screw them together. Then cut an angle on the front and back. Place the blocks in front of each rear wheel on the truck and drive up onto them. Raising the rear of the truck 6-8 inches will drop the rear of the toy hauler by over a foot. On my 38’ it’s about 2 feet of drop. Again the ramp angle is not your problem by doing this. If the door is even short your Spyder will go up fine. The transition going from ramp to inside needs to be watched. I’ve seen several bottoms, pipes, and brakes ripped off. An easy transition fix is to screw a 2x4 onto e-track. Run an e-track across the floor just inside the door like little tracks or ramps. When the front tires of the Spyder contact the 2x4, it raises it enough and the center is not raised for the rear giving you a better transition. The etrack can then be used for strapping it down.
I found this while looking for something else, and I thought I'd reply to this old post.
You don't need to lift the truck. Lift the front of the bike as it goes in and onto the toy hauler floor to improve the breakover angle. What I did was to make some arc ramps for the floor, by stacking some lightweight cedar boards to lift the front wheels after it is in the flat position after the ramp (not recommending cedar, but it is lightweight and only needs to support weight, not bending). It ended up being a stack of boards maybe 3" tall, with the longest on the bottom, long enough so that once the rear wheel is almost all the way onto the toy hauler floor, the front wheels have come off the stack, with a gentle arc shape with the other boards (so the second board is maybe 8" shorter, the third another bit shorter, etc, forming a gentle arc that basically continues the transition angled part of the floor a little longer into the flat area). Works great. In some situations, the ramp will be angled shallow enough that we don't need them, but when the ramp is steep, we need every bit of that front wheel lift to get the bike on board without hitting bottom. Now it is zero problem. The boards are screwed together so there is no stacking every time, they lay on the floor during use, and bungee to the toy hauler wall next to the bike for travel.
We also use 4/5 (1" thick) deck boards maybe 2.5' long to lift the front wheels and protect the frunk body on approach. They are placed 2/3rd's off the ramp to lift the front as early as possible. Those are always used, no matter the slope, to lift the nose first, before the front wheels hit the ramp (it also makes a nice smooth approach for that thick door). So I disagree with approach angle, it is a problem, but easily rectified with 2 boards. We don't use a board for the rear wheel to come up, it could get spit out with the rear wheel being driven, I'd rather have full traction. You do need to plan for dry weather when loading up a steep ramp, or find a place with a shallow approach if wet weather is unavoidable.
