I recently got my 2023 Spyder RT out of storage, charged and installed the battery, then turned the ignition on but did not start it. The display came on and I reset the clock then turned the key off. I needed to get back in the frunk but the latch was stuck. I pushed and turned the key a few times and it opened, however on one of the tries I heard a single pop (or snap) and the electrical system went dead, except for the lights, which still work. Everything else is dead - no display, no start. I checked all the fuses with my meter and they are ok. Has anyone experienced this or have any thoughts on what happened? Is there a master fuse somewhere? Thanks for any feedback.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
I have a dead 2023 RT, no electrics except lights - any thoughts?
- Thread starter lgora
- Start date
When you say '... charged and installed the battery...', did you actually check the battery voltage, &/or Load test it?? 
Spyders are EXTREMELY power hungry, and when you try to start them, that power hunger/demand is at its peak, what with trying to crank the starter, turn on the electric Power Steering; start up a bunch of sensors and computers; maybe change a gear back to Neutral cos when you stopped it last you didn't select Neutral first; and more... All of that takes a LOT of power out of what is really a pretty small battery, and even a brand new battery might not be fully up to that task, ESPECIALLY if it wasn't initialised properly and charged on a proper charger for at least 8 hours before installation - was yours?? Do you really KNOW?? Or are you just taking the dealer &/or battery retailer's word for that??
So the very first thing to check whenever this sort of 'won't start' thing happens is your battery!
Even if you just put a multi-meter across the terminals and get readings from when it's sat overnight with no load; then when you turn the ignition on; and then while you're actually cranking the starter; a reading if/when the engine actually starts; and finally, when you rev it up to about 3500 rpm. If you get (or try to get) those 5 readings, and you can't or the voltage EVER drops anything much below 12 volts, then it's likely that your battery is the problem! If you can get it properly load tested, so much the better, but a response from the tester of,
"Nah, it's not the battery, cos it shows it's good" is NOT GOOD ENOUGH!! You NEED to know if the voltage ever dropped below 12 volts, and not just the 10.7 volts that USED to be considered an acceptable minimum for a 'Good' battery back in the days many load tester devices were designed, the testers were trained, and most engines electrical systems only had to drive the points, plugs, a single coil, and maybe a radio!! Your Spyder uses a HELLUVA LOT more power than that, it's likely the fuel pump alone drags more juice out of the battery than all of that on a pre-EFI engine, while your Spyder has all those computers and sensors and Dynamic Power Steering Systems and multi-point fuel injection with high draw coils and spark plugs and computer controlled electro-solenoid gear changing and more!! So if your battery can't push at least something very near 12 volts ALL the time, you're not likely to be able to start it; and even if you can, it probably won't run for long &/or too often, not unless your charging system is really in top notch condition and you can ride it for more than the 30 mins or so minimum without stopping that it'll take just to put back the charge sucked out of it by just ONE start!!
So check your battery FIRST, and if it's not up to the task, you can try charging it properly, but having once failed, it WILL do that again, probably sooner rather than later...
If it fails the 'holds at least 12 volts all the time' test and you want to save yourself some time, money, and maybe even save yourself from being stuck out there somewhere with a dead battery, miles from home/any help, then cut to the chase now and get yourself a new, quality AGM battery with at least 350 CCA and 21 A/hr capacity (or equivalent if you go for one of the nickel whatever types, just make sure you've got a suitable Ni charger!) and then make sure the new battery is initialised and charged properly BEFORE installation; and then after installation, check that the voltage never drops below 12 volts during the (attempted) start cycle. Then, and only then, can you really go searching for any other problems (maybe check out the connections on the ignition tumbler, that 'pop (or snap)' sounds ominous!) but without ensuring the battery is up to the task FIRST, everything else is a pure stab in the dark and could mean you're just wasting time and maybe money on other things when it could be the battery to start with 
(or not, if it still won't crank! )
Just Sayin'... again!
Spyders are EXTREMELY power hungry, and when you try to start them, that power hunger/demand is at its peak, what with trying to crank the starter, turn on the electric Power Steering; start up a bunch of sensors and computers; maybe change a gear back to Neutral cos when you stopped it last you didn't select Neutral first; and more... All of that takes a LOT of power out of what is really a pretty small battery, and even a brand new battery might not be fully up to that task, ESPECIALLY if it wasn't initialised properly and charged on a proper charger for at least 8 hours before installation - was yours?? Do you really KNOW?? Or are you just taking the dealer &/or battery retailer's word for that??
So the very first thing to check whenever this sort of 'won't start' thing happens is your battery!
Even if you just put a multi-meter across the terminals and get readings from when it's sat overnight with no load; then when you turn the ignition on; and then while you're actually cranking the starter; a reading if/when the engine actually starts; and finally, when you rev it up to about 3500 rpm. If you get (or try to get) those 5 readings, and you can't or the voltage EVER drops anything much below 12 volts, then it's likely that your battery is the problem! If you can get it properly load tested, so much the better, but a response from the tester of,
"Nah, it's not the battery, cos it shows it's good" is NOT GOOD ENOUGH!! You NEED to know if the voltage ever dropped below 12 volts, and not just the 10.7 volts that USED to be considered an acceptable minimum for a 'Good' battery back in the days many load tester devices were designed, the testers were trained, and most engines electrical systems only had to drive the points, plugs, a single coil, and maybe a radio!! Your Spyder uses a HELLUVA LOT more power than that, it's likely the fuel pump alone drags more juice out of the battery than all of that on a pre-EFI engine, while your Spyder has all those computers and sensors and Dynamic Power Steering Systems and multi-point fuel injection with high draw coils and spark plugs and computer controlled electro-solenoid gear changing and more!! So if your battery can't push at least something very near 12 volts ALL the time, you're not likely to be able to start it; and even if you can, it probably won't run for long &/or too often, not unless your charging system is really in top notch condition and you can ride it for more than the 30 mins or so minimum without stopping that it'll take just to put back the charge sucked out of it by just ONE start!!
So check your battery FIRST, and if it's not up to the task, you can try charging it properly, but having once failed, it WILL do that again, probably sooner rather than later...
If it fails the 'holds at least 12 volts all the time' test and you want to save yourself some time, money, and maybe even save yourself from being stuck out there somewhere with a dead battery, miles from home/any help, then cut to the chase now and get yourself a new, quality AGM battery with at least 350 CCA and 21 A/hr capacity (or equivalent if you go for one of the nickel whatever types, just make sure you've got a suitable Ni charger!) and then make sure the new battery is initialised and charged properly BEFORE installation; and then after installation, check that the voltage never drops below 12 volts during the (attempted) start cycle. Then, and only then, can you really go searching for any other problems (maybe check out the connections on the ignition tumbler, that 'pop (or snap)' sounds ominous!) but without ensuring the battery is up to the task FIRST, everything else is a pure stab in the dark and could mean you're just wasting time and maybe money on other things when it could be the battery to start with (or not, if it still won't crank! )Just Sayin'... again!
Albec
Well-known member
What's your meter telling you about the battery? If it was my machine, I would hook the meter up to the battery before turning the key on, note the reading. Now turn the key on and see what's what. Is the voltage being pulled way down or is it staying the same? Now try to start it, what's going on now?
I too have a 2023 with the original battery. It's showing signs of needing replacement, I'll probably do that this coming spring. I store my Spyder in the winter and keep the battery on a tender.
Yes, I checked both.
The battery shows 12.3 volts at rest. Turning the key on does nothing, The display is black and pushing the starter button does nothing - not even a click. The only thing that happens when the key is on is the fender lights and tail light come on and the brake light works. I am familiar with the crummy original equipment battery problem, having gone through that with my 2022 RT. This problem with my 2023 RT seems to be much worse, as if some electrical/electronic component has failed.
12.3 volts at rest with no recent load on your battery isn't a sign of a good battery - ideally, that's the sort of voltage you'd look for while it was actually cranking, altho maybe accepting it being juuust a tad lower!
So for what it's worth, your battery pretty clearly ISN'T good, but if you get nothing at all (except those lights??) after turning the key on; no sounds, no clicks, no dash display at all, not even a drop in the voltage shown, then yeah, something else is wrong too...
Maybe it's time to start searching for a dead short on the starter, main harness, or the dash/cluster side of the fuse box; or possibly looking for something that might've blown your dash cluster?? Do Spyders have a Fusible link anywhere?? It's an interesting one...
So for what it's worth, your battery pretty clearly ISN'T good, but if you get nothing at all (except those lights??) after turning the key on; no sounds, no clicks, no dash display at all, not even a drop in the voltage shown, then yeah, something else is wrong too...
Maybe it's time to start searching for a dead short on the starter, main harness, or the dash/cluster side of the fuse box; or possibly looking for something that might've blown your dash cluster?? Do Spyders have a Fusible link anywhere??
It's an interesting one...
Albec
Well-known member
Read his post again.
Albec
Well-known member
I agree, you have a issue!
At rest, the battery is 12.3vdc, that's low. You turned the key on; lights came on but the reading stayed the same? Those lights coming on didn't pull that 12.3vdc down at all? That's odd.
What sort of meter are you using?
Mikey
Well-known member
Albec
Well-known member
Read twice and he wasn't really clear! Your sort of asking the same question!
"The battery shows 12.3 volts at rest. Turning the key on does nothing, The display is black and pushing the starter button does nothing - not even a click."
Seems pretty clear to me.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
To answer Peter's question - Yes, every Spyder has a fusible link. HOWEVER, it's located in the charging circuit electrical line between the alternator/magneto and the battery. It's not between the battery and the fuse boxes. So, in this case, it is not a player.
For the OP, You stated that you checked the fuses. Just to cover all the bases, there are two types, the small, semi-transparent pretty colored fuses, and the small, square black colored fuses - called the J-Case fuses - in the bottom row of each fuse box as shown in the Operator's Guide. Did you check them, also?
For the OP, You stated that you checked the fuses. Just to cover all the bases, there are two types, the small, semi-transparent pretty colored fuses, and the small, square black colored fuses - called the J-Case fuses - in the bottom row of each fuse box as shown in the Operator's Guide. Did you check them, also?
Klein Tools digital
Yes I realize the battery is failing and I need a new one. I think 12.3 volts should be enough to light up the dash. After all, it did so initially before the electrical failure.
Yes I checked those as well, although they are colored too, not black.
Mikey
Well-known member
The clear thing I see here is that if you're trying to do a load test on a battery you take a reading of the battery AT REST, then see what the voltage is UNDER LOAD, that's what I was asking, and he didn't give that to us! Take a chill pill!
Try to hook a known good battery to your weak one like you're trying to jump start it and see if it makes a difference. It's a known fact that when a battery is on its way out that it affects these bikes in many ways!!!
I may be beating a dead horse and yes I'm definitely nursing a grudge, but if that's a Haijiu battery in the bike I'd get it out of there before I took another step. These batteries are spectacular junk, you'll find reports of problems caused by these things all across the various powersports forums. Good luck, and keep us posted, please.
Sarah
Sarah
Similar threads
