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Just a word to the wise about rear brake rotors.

ZiggyF

New member
I have a 2014 RTL that I just did tires, brakes, & the rear rotor. Because of my negligence, the rear inside of the rotor was scoured. Finding a rotor for ABS braking was next to impossible. I found two in Florida, one on Bradenton, and one in Tampa, which was closer. The price was $240.00… not cheap. The ones you see on Amazon say they are correct, but it must be referring to Non ABS systems.

So a word to the wise - keep checking those rotors, especially on the old trikes!!!
 
As stated above, it is not the rotor but the ABS ring that is important and needs to be transferred to the new rotor. That is unless you are buying rotors that are not meant for the machine specifically... EBC makes them for our bykes and I have them on mine. Just xferred the ABS rings to the new rotors and off I went!
For example:
 
There is no reason to spend $240.00 on a rotor. The correct rotor is easily obtained from numerous sources. Hypurone is correct in saying that the rotor has nothing to do with the VSS (ABS) system. There is no such thing as a non-ABS rotor for the Spyder.

Not sure where the OP is getting information. But something is a bit off there.
 
There is no reason to spend $240.00 on a rotor. The correct rotor is easily obtained from numerous sources. Hypurone is correct in saying that the rotor has nothing to do with the VSS (ABS) system. There is no such thing as a non-ABS rotor for the Spyder.

Not sure where the OP is getting information. But something is a bit off there.
All I can think of is that he may have been having the dreaded yellow locktite nightmare (as we all have at one point) and was trying to find one with the ABS ring already on it? :unsure:
 
All I can think of is that he may have been having the dreaded yellow locktite nightmare (as we all have at one point) and was trying to find one with the ABS ring already on it? :unsure:
A little heat from a propane torch will get those bolts off easy-peasy. The only rotor’s I’ve seen that have the tone ring attached are used. I hope this easily resolved issue isn’t his problem source.
 
A little heat from a propane torch will get those bolts off easy-peasy. The only rotor’s I’ve seen that have the tone ring attached are used. I hope this easily resolved issue isn’t his problem source.
True, but if you have never done it before....
 
All I can think of is that he may have been having the dreaded yellow locktite nightmare (as we all have at one point) and was trying to find one with the ABS ring already on it? :unsure:
In the automotive industry the bolts they use come pre-coated with this yellow compound from the fastener provider. Unlike liquid LOCKTITE it is activated when the bolt is tightened. It's a dry material and saves time and money during the manufacturing process, especially when used with the bolts are being inserted by robot or other machine. Notice how it is always in such neat bands around just part of the thread of the bolt. Brake cleaner and a wire brush will usually remove it so you can use good old fashioned liquid LOCKTITE to reassemble things.

The science behind these things is remarkable. Some are a plastic material that when tightened releases the liquid inside. Others are sophisticated dry polymers. Different colors usually signify different strengths apparently. Most are single use only, so you have to clean it all off and use a suitable traditional liquid thread locker application.

I had a friend who was in the industrial fastener industry, i.e. who sold bolts for a living. A very lucrative living apparently. His motorcycles had titanium bolts used all over them. I never knew thread locker was so sophisticated a technology until I met him. I thought it came as a liquid in red or blue and that was about it.
 
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