Should I roll off the Throttle when upshifting, or maintain the position? What are the best RPM's?

[1Vetteman]

I recently traded my Harley Freewheeler for a 2022 RT and have a question on throttle usage when upshifting.

Do I rolI off the throttle when upshifting or maintain the position so the RPM’s don’t drop? I’m still getting used to using my thumb and index finger to shift instead of my foot!

 

[Knizar]

I recently traded my Harley Freewheeler for a 2022 RT and have a question on throttle usage when upshifting.

Do I rolI off the throttle when upshifting or maintain the position so the RPM’s don’t drop? I’m still getting used to using my thumb and index finger to shift instead of my foot!

maintain the RPMs, don't drop off

 

[EdMat]

Keep the throttle steady up or downshifting and the computer will do the matching for you.

 

[BajaRon]

As already spoken. Just hit the paddle and the Spyder does the rest. You will actually hinder the upshifting process if you blip the throttle. You may have to retrain yourself for that. Same for downshifting. The Spyder tends to downshift late. I almost always downshift before the auto process kicks in since I want to use engine braking.

 

[Mikey]

Shift points around 4000 rpm, up, down, either, let it roll for itself or like Ron said, you can use it for braking if you want! It will tell you if it's not right by not giving you what you're asking for! Nanny will keep the machine safe; you just have to listen to her! Hold the throttle still and flip!

 

[Snoking1127]

On on ramps I go wide open and just shift through the gears at full throttle. Vroom Vroom!!

 

[BajaRon]

Mikey, you bring up a good point. I've had customers say they have concerns that they might try to downshift too soon and over-rev the engine. Won't happen. Like Mikey says, the ECM keeps you from doing something distructive, though you can upshift and lug the engine. We have some customers who insist on doing this because the 1330 doesn't complain. Unfortunately, they will pay for it in the long run.

 

[T.P.]

Your 1330 red line is 8100 rpm. Try it, you will like it.
T.P.

 

[1Vetteman]

I’m still in the learning curve with the recently acquired 2022 Spyder RT.

What’s the best RPM level to maintain the engine at for the best all around performance? I don’t want to lug it or over rev it, keeping the engine where it likes to run at is my goal.

 

[Snoking1127]

Above 3000 to 3200 range, unless you are going down hill. Let it rev, you can't hurt it.

 

[Peter Aawen]

@1Vetteman, it might help you a lot if you spend some time reading the "Do's & Do Not's" thread here:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/dos-do-nots-for-new-spyder-owners.41346/

When you're reading it, just make sure that the specific engine/trans related info you are reading/paying attention to is appropriate for your particular Spyder's engine & trans, as that thread started back in the days of the 998cc V-Twin motors and 5 speed gearboxes, before the 1330 ACE 3-Cylinder engine and the 6 speed gearboxes hit the streets; and while much of the 'riding' info is common across all Spyders regardless of model/year, the ideal engine revs are different for the V-Twins/5 speeds vs those for the 1330's/6 speeds - but NEITHER engine/trans combo benefits from lugging them along at revs that are too low, especially if they have one of the SE (Semi-Automatic) transmissions, the SE5's for the V-Twins, the SE6's for the 1300's!

That said, BOTH of those SE transmissions are still effectively the same 5 speed or 6 speed MANUAL gearboxes, except with the addition of some hi-tech clutches (Centrifugal for the SE5's & Electro-hydraulic for the SE6's) and what is effectively computer controlled/solenoid activated 'Quick Shift' gear selectors triggered by the flappy paddle plus the addition of a 'Fail-safe over-ride downshift' feature to protect the engine/keep it running if you forget that, as with any manual gear box, you really SHOULD initiate any downshifts yourself via the flappy paddle shift! Sure, you can be lazy and let the 'fail-safe' trigger the downshifts for you, but just like with any manual gearbox, that's not the safest way to do things, it's not 'best practice', nor is it going to help your bike/trans last as long as it could if only you cared for it properly and initiated the changes yourself!

Just Sayin'

 

[Cobranut]

I’m still in the learning curve with the recently acquired 2022 Spyder RT.

What’s the best RPM level to maintain the engine at for the best all around performance? I don’t want to lug it or over rev it, keeping the engine where it likes to run at is my goal.

My main goal is not to load the engine below 3000 rpm.
The 1330 seems most comfortable cruising between 3000-6000 rpm, which covers typical highway cruise speeds.

 

[mecsw500]

I tend to keep above 3,000 RPM.

However, as peak torque is around about 5,000 RPM, I find revving it out much beyond that doesn’t gain a lot.

 

[jjc54]

I'm a blimper and do it both ways. The most important thing with shifting, is to engage the paddles as quickly as possible. The only time I get any hesitation is when I get lazy and hold them too long.

 

[vito1943]

I pretty much shift at around 4,000. But if I am trying to get up to speed quickly I might wait until 5,000 or so. My 2021 RT seems fine with how I ride.

 

[scubadown]

My 998 seems to like to go higher when I'm driving more spirited.

 

[Peter Aawen]

My 998 seems to like to go higher when I'm driving more spirited.

The 998 V-Twin engines DO like to rev higher than the 1330's, which are inherently lazy but very torquey engines, with their torque on tap pretty much right off idle, then peaking at about 5000 rpm or so, dropping off slowly to a bit over 6000 rpm, then dropping torque fairly quickly from there until they hit max revs; while the V-Twins have really only just started to come on song at about 4000 rpm and will pretty much pull right out to 7000+ rpm, which is still well before the rev limiter, even on a stock V-Twin!

But as quite a few of us here have found to our great enjoyment, a V-Twin motor with an ECU Upgrade can safely and reliably (and even potentially more economically - IF you can avoid the temptation to wring the throttle all the time! ) unleash some of the extra and quite spirited power that's available from these motors up above 8000 rpm and out to around 9800 rpm or so, which those poor sods riding stock Spyders running either motor in stock trim just won't ever get to see, let alone get to play with!

A lot of this info is available in that 'Do's and Do Not's' thread I linked in post #11 - it's well worth a read if you haven't already; or maybe worth a re-visit if it's been a while?! And there's lots more info to be found on Revs &/or RPM for either motor simply by entering either word in the Search field (top Right of each page), checking the 'Search titles only' box, submitting the search, and spending an enjoyable & educational next few days reading!

Just Sayin'

 

[Cobranut]

My tuned 1330 pulls well up to 8,000 rpm before it starts falling off up to the limiter.

 

[Peter Aawen]

My tuned 1330 pulls well up to 8,000 rpm before it starts falling off up to the limiter.

Yep, that's the bit that wakes them up!

Apparently, BRP doesn't trust the average Spyder owner enough to give them/let them access that sort of capability out of the box/direct from the factory - but you can get all sorts of frustrating digital crap that doesn't really add anything to the 'ride' per se (and could be argued fairly strongly that it significantly DETRACTS from the 'ride' experience... ) but you get it regardless, whether you want it &/or like it or not!