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I’m getting frustrated with the belt vibration - any ideas to help?
- Thread starter Wrongway
- Start date
While I can recall that it's not very much at all, there is something of a weight difference between the two - I used to know what it was, but I'm sorry, it's been a while and I'm not at home to look it up.
Mind you, many of those suffering from these 'vibration issues' still have the OEM Kendas &/or their clones fitted, so I'm not sure that it comes down to the different weight of the tires per se... However, in the case of those still running the Kendas, it could easily be the built in imbalance in the tire's construction - many Kendas/clones are fitted to Spyders despite being 'out of round' &/or with exceedingly heavy/light imbalance areas in the tire, and some rims aren't all that well 'balanced' similarly either, or they're just out of round/don't run true (we've even had reports of some hub seats not being 'square' to the axles!)
To get an idea of how bad any imbalance might be, just take a look at the number of weights that have been used during any balancing that's been done &/or that you can see fitted on many wheels, especially those still fitted with Kendas/clones in an effort to make them run smoothly!! 
That does raise a thoughty tho??? Has anyone with these vibration issues had their RIMS balanced/checked for round/running true BEFORE fitting (and balancing??) and the tire going onto the rim?? Some relatively minor rim/tire imbalances/out of round/trueness can be compensated for by balancing, adding weights, or maybe even machining the rim &/or shaving the tires, but I've had about half dozen Spyder rims and a heap of OEM tires/clones go thru here that've come off various machines which have been so 'unbalanced &/or out of round/true' that I thought they were dangerous to even try to use, and every owner of the Spyders they came off complained about vibrations before they swapped rims/tires... I don't see many Altimax tires here in Oz, but maybe some of those over there have come out of different manufacturing plants/another country and don't have quite the same level of quality control??
lvmyspyder
Member
After reading all of the posts in this thread and getting over myself, I dropped the pressure in my fronts to 16 and to 20# PSI in the rear on the Altimax. I did not adjust belt tension and I was solo versus two up for the test drive. Belt vibration was substantially reduced at the lower pressure in the rear tire. With reduced load, my variables were not completely static (i.e. it was not just reduced tire pressure) but the reduction in belt vibration was substantial and much less noticeable, so a very welcome change and I believe that mirrors what others have said here, that belt vibration is reduced or eliminated at lower rear tire pressure. Overall smoothness was better at all speeds. Less side to side movement. Nothing looked or acted like something underinflated... definitely improved. Thank you for everyone's patience as I continue to let air out of my Spyder tires and out of my head as I wrap it around the less is more data on tire inflation on our bikes...
Poppie65
Active member
The back and forth discourse in here can be very helpful, but also overwhelming when you get a lot of differing opinions. Using your best judgement will be crucial as you filter through all of the feedback. I dealt with the drivebelt vibration as well and got pretty frustrated, especially when I thought that I knew the answer to the riddle but couldn't prove it. When I slowed down, listened to sound advice, and did some trial runs, I found our sweet spot. Belt tension and rear tire pressure. I forget what I set the belt tension to, but we run the rear tire (a General Altimax RT) at 18 psi & I check/adjust it if necessary before every ride. I might add a pound if we're pulling the trailer. Front tires (Vredestein) are set and maintained at 20 psi and I doubt I will ever go lower than that. We've been so consistently smooth that I'm considering reaching under the skin and zip-tying the spring tensioner up to see if it's even needed anymore.
I wish you luck in finding your sweet spot. As soon as you get there, you'll find something new to focus on.
More lights.
Brake upgrade.
Shocks.
Anti-sway bar.
Ha!
Good luck!
I wish you luck in finding your sweet spot. As soon as you get there, you'll find something new to focus on.
More lights.
Brake upgrade.
Shocks.
Anti-sway bar.
Ha!
Good luck!
Mikey
Well-known member
Please do and get back to us!! Because I am thinking about doing that myself as soon as I get a few more miles on it!
lvmyspyder
Member
Got a chance to ride after getting my head right and dropping the front pressures down to 16 on the Federal Formozas in the front and 20psi on the Altimax on the back. Freeway, twisty's, traffic, no traffic, several road conditions. Result, better tracking. Almost zero belt vibration at load, any speed etc. Just sending this out to thank everyone for their input. The belt vibration was driving me nuts. It was there all the time on cruise riding two up, going up any incline, or when I wanted to go from 60-70mph, it was lousy. Now, it's just gone or very slightly there. I am riding solo, but I am loading it via acceleration, hills, slightly lugging it and then speeding up and it's just gone. So thank you to members of the forum for so much information sharing. If I ever go back to those higher pressures, please slap me. I am not sure of all the dynamics of the change, all I know, is sweet spots will vary due to many variables, but go as low as you can go with car tires on your machine. Lesson learned...
Now that you're happy (most) of the vibration is sorted, if you REALLY want to get the best performance and longevity out of that rear Altimax, just drop its pressure down to 18 psi!
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