Oh the 4.1.0 is definitely bugged. It crashes and freezes the screen frequently enough to be a PITA. It annoyed me so much I filed a complaint with NHTSA hoping it would get some traction. Not sure my complaint did any good, but glad to see Can-Am finally got around to fixing this issue (hopefully!)
I wasn't sure, but just hopeful.
The first day I had my 2026 S2S I updated from V 4.1.0 to V 5.1.0 so I didn't get to try anything on the V 4.1.0 release.
I just thought I'd do any outstanding updates before I tried configuring anything.
I would also advise you buy one of these USB devices power measuring devices off of Amazon if you are using a USB C device on an adapter from the USB A port in the glove box.
USB C Tester Power Meter, 4-30V 0-12A Type-C PD Tester Digital Multimeter, Voltage and Current Tester Meter Voltmeter, Power Bank Capacity USB Cable Charger Detector (KWS-2303C)
A USB A device will only draw current up to the USB A specified maximum for a USB 2.1 port which the Spyder provides. This is usually 1.5 Amps for most USB A 2.1 devices.
However, a USB C device will draw whatever current it can negotiate with the source device if it is USB C. If it is a USB A port as i the Spyder, the target device, i.e. your phone is
supposed to figure this out and only draw the USB 2.1 maximum of around 1 to 1.5 Amps. Some devices are very bad at this and incorrectly draw too much current from the source device when it's a USB A port like the one on your Spyder.
Now the Spyder is smart and has an over current and temperature limiting signal from the USB driver section and will shutdown power to the whole display system, i.e. it will go black and not do anything. This is to protect the motherboard from over current situations damaging the board or its components.
From my experiments, my iPhone 16 will only draw 1.5 Amps (1500 mA) at 5 Volts so it behaves correctly, The Spyder seems to produce about 1.5 Amps maximum for anything other than a short instantaneous burst. This device is easy to use and will plug between your USB C port on your phone and your USB C cable, which I would assume has USB A on the other end. Some phones or other devices get very confused over reading the signals from the cable and determining there is USB A at the other end.
So, sometimes a display blanking out can be from a USB C device whose power supply doesn't limit current draw from a USB A source correctly, and just tries to draw as much as it can to some limit which may easily over current drive the Spyder causing the whole display to shutdown completely.
Now I know I've simplified this a bit and some of the current limits vary by implementation from USB 1.0 all the way through 2.0/2.1 etc. USB C devices negotiate with the host to draw no more than that particular implementation can provide, well usually. A lot also depends upon what signals the cable propagates and cheap cables can have all kinds of messed up pin outs. I have a USB cable testing device and you wouldn't believe the liberties with the USB specifications some cable manufacturers perform to save a buck or two.
I hope that helps, and I hope your update issues resolve themselves. How did the factory reset work out?