• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

NHTSA Campaign 26V575000 - 2025-2026 Spyder RT, F3, & Canyon freezing cluster fix issued

My 2026 Sea to Sky was delivered with V 4.1.0. I upgrades to V 5.1.0 after I took delivery. On the 17th I upgraded to V 6.1.0.

I wonder if someone who upgraded on the 16th just cannot upgrade again - just can’t, despite the options still showing; or have the online updating menu entries disappeared from the menu system?

What does that “cannot upgrade again over the air” actually look like on the cluster - if anything?
 
My Spyder is almost impossible to connect to WiFi at my house. It usually takes 10-20 times, then it says bad password, even though it's stored correctly. I usually have to ride it somewhere where there's not much WiFi around, then use my phone hotspot. I tried that this morning too, but it still says no update available. :(
 
My Spyder is almost impossible to connect to WiFi at my house. It usually takes 10-20 times, then it says bad password, even though it's stored correctly. I usually have to ride it somewhere where there's not much WiFi around, then use my phone hotspot. I tried that this morning too, but it still says no update available. :(

Bluetooth can interfere with 2.4GHz WiFi. I’d try disconnecting all Bluetooth connections with the Spyder, if you have any, to see if that makes things better.

It seems like perhaps your local 2.4GHz network is very crowded and maybe the signal strength in your garage is low. You might want to load a network app on your phone to see if there is a less crowded channel is available to use as the router’s default. If your router is automatically choosing channels, then its view of the crowd may be different to the situation in your garage where the signal strength is likely lower too.

If your router is the one supplied by your network provider, cable or fiber, then often it is better to set that into bridge mode and provide your own higher quality device. The provided units are built down to a price. You can usually get a device that's a whole lot better, especially in the 2.4GHz band, for well under $100. Some are better than others about negotiating the security handshake in noisy and faint signal environments. Some of the network provider’s devices are pretty poor in my opinion and leave a lot to be desired.

When I had AT&T cable, before Google Fiber, I provided my own cable modem and router, saving me the monthly rental fee for their device and improving the network coverage enormously.

Now, with Google Fiber, I have a lot more sophisticated networking topology, but just about anything is better than the provider’s equipment..
 
Thanks @mecsw500, I have my own WiFi equipment, and separate SSIDs for 2.4 and 5 GHz channels. When I browse for WiFi on my computer I probably see at least 20 different SSIDs, and this is in a single family neighborhood. The Spyder has never worked very well on WiFi for me, rarely connecting at all. If I go to a remote-ish area with good cell service, I can connect to my phone's hotspot first time, every time. That's how I did the first update or two actually. But so far it just tells me there's no update available even with my hotspot in a "clean" area.
 
Updated my 2024 Spyder Ltd this morning to the V6 version. It took about twenty minutes. Everything seems fine now, altho some of the icons have moved and there's new graphics. I had the screen freeze up on me, but only while parked. I just go through the start procedure, it starts, and seconds later the screen activates. I've never had it blank out while riding. Just lucky, I guess?!
 
Updated my 2024 Spyder Ltd this morning to the V6 version. It took about twenty minutes. Everything seems fine now, altho some of the icons have moved and there's new graphics. I had the screen freeze up on me, but only while parked. I just go through the start procedure, it starts, and seconds later the screen activates. I've never had it blank out while riding. Just lucky, I guess?!
I presume you meant it froze up on the V 5.1.0 release, not the new V 6.1.0 release. Well I hope that's what you meant?
 
Mine says it's on 4.1.0
It should be finding at least one update.

I’ve no idea if you have to update from V 4.1.0 to V 5.1.0 and the to V 6.1.0, or whether you can go straight from V 4.1.0 to V 6.1.0.

In either case, V 6.1.0 is for a NHTSA mandated recall campaign so you very likely want to be on that release ASAP.

If it cannot find any updates, I would book an appointment with your dealer to get it done. It should be no charge and take less than 30 minutes to do.

As an aside, make sure your WiFi network is not open and has WSA2 or more security set.
 
It should be finding at least one update.

I’ve no idea if you have to update from V 4.1.0 to V 5.1.0 and the to V 6.1.0, or whether you can go straight from V 4.1.0 to V 6.1.0.

In either case, V 6.1.0 is for a NHTSA mandated recall campaign so you very likely want to be on that release ASAP.

If it cannot find any updates, I would book an appointment with your dealer to get it done. It should be no charge and take less than 30 minutes to do.

As an aside, make sure your WiFi network is not open and has WSA2 or more security set.
I have tried 3 different WiFi networks including my phone's hotspot. It continues to just report no updates available.
 
I have tried 3 different WiFi networks including my phone's hotspot. It continues to just report no updates available.
Have you tried resetting the display to factory settings. It might be because there is some configurable it doesn't like that stops it searching correctly for the updates.

I'd do a reset to factory settings, then just try connecting again via your phone hotspot.

I cannot think of much else before taking it to the dealer for them to update it for you. It should be free as it is a safety recall.
 
Have you tried resetting the display to factory settings. It might be because there is some configurable it doesn't like that stops it searching correctly for the updates.

I'd do a reset to factory settings, then just try connecting again via your phone hotspot.

I cannot think of much else before taking it to the dealer for them to update it for you. It should be free as it is a safety recall.

Yeah thought about that, but since nothing else is working I'll try the full reset. Won't lose much, other than my BT pairing to headset I guess.

EDIT: Multiple users on FB have confirmed that they are not getting the update presented to them either. I wonder if Can-AM is staging the rollout by VIN batches or something to prevent a mass bricking in the even of a bad update, or to prevent their servers from being overloaded. I think I'll just keep trying for a while and see if I eventually get it.

Second thought: Wondering now if those on v4.1.0 are not being presented with the upgrade. My small sample of users on FB are all on v4.1.0, including myself. Perhaps the upgrade from v4.1.0 is slightly different and that hasn't been released, or it's not even going to work? Has everyone that has gotten the upgrade for sure been on v5.1.0 before the latest update?
 
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Perhaps like you say, BRP are staging the update availability?

If the bugs driving the recall weren't in V 4.1.0 then perhaps they are doing the V 5.1.0 updates first as that is where the liability lies?

If you go on to the Can Am website there is a form to fill in to ask BRP questions. I have used this in the past and they have been pretty quick to respond. I asked for the XPS Full Synthetic Oil safety sheet which they are obliged to give upon request, and I got a response within 24 hours.
 
Perhaps like you say, BRP are staging the update availability?

If the bugs driving the recall weren't in V 4.1.0 then perhaps they are doing the V 5.1.0 updates first as that is where the liability lies?

If you go on to the Can Am website there is a form to fill in to ask BRP questions. I have used this in the past and they have been pretty quick to respond. I asked for the XPS Full Synthetic Oil safety sheet which they are obliged to give upon request, and I got a response within 24 hours.
Oh the 4.1.0 is definitely bugged. It crashes and freezes the screen frequently enough to be a PITA. It annoyed me so much I filed a complaint with NHTSA hoping it would get some traction. Not sure my complaint did any good, but glad to see Can-Am finally got around to fixing this issue (hopefully!)
 
Oh the 4.1.0 is definitely bugged. It crashes and freezes the screen frequently enough to be a PITA. It annoyed me so much I filed a complaint with NHTSA hoping it would get some traction. Not sure my complaint did any good, but glad to see Can-Am finally got around to fixing this issue (hopefully!)
I wasn't sure, but just hopeful.

The first day I had my 2026 S2S I updated from V 4.1.0 to V 5.1.0 so I didn't get to try anything on the V 4.1.0 release.

I just thought I'd do any outstanding updates before I tried configuring anything.

I would also advise you buy one of these USB devices power measuring devices off of Amazon if you are using a USB C device on an adapter from the USB A port in the glove box.

USB C Tester Power Meter, 4-30V 0-12A Type-C PD Tester Digital Multimeter, Voltage and Current Tester Meter Voltmeter, Power Bank Capacity USB Cable Charger Detector (KWS-2303C)​

A USB A device will only draw current up to the USB A specified maximum for a USB 2.1 port which the Spyder provides. This is usually 1.5 Amps for most USB A 2.1 devices.

However, a USB C device will draw whatever current it can negotiate with the source device if it is USB C. If it is a USB A port as i the Spyder, the target device, i.e. your phone is supposed to figure this out and only draw the USB 2.1 maximum of around 1 to 1.5 Amps. Some devices are very bad at this and incorrectly draw too much current from the source device when it's a USB A port like the one on your Spyder.

Now the Spyder is smart and has an over current and temperature limiting signal from the USB driver section and will shutdown power to the whole display system, i.e. it will go black and not do anything. This is to protect the motherboard from over current situations damaging the board or its components.

From my experiments, my iPhone 16 will only draw 1.5 Amps (1500 mA) at 5 Volts so it behaves correctly, The Spyder seems to produce about 1.5 Amps maximum for anything other than a short instantaneous burst. This device is easy to use and will plug between your USB C port on your phone and your USB C cable, which I would assume has USB A on the other end. Some phones or other devices get very confused over reading the signals from the cable and determining there is USB A at the other end.

So, sometimes a display blanking out can be from a USB C device whose power supply doesn't limit current draw from a USB A source correctly, and just tries to draw as much as it can to some limit which may easily over current drive the Spyder causing the whole display to shutdown completely.

Now I know I've simplified this a bit and some of the current limits vary by implementation from USB 1.0 all the way through 2.0/2.1 etc. USB C devices negotiate with the host to draw no more than that particular implementation can provide, well usually. A lot also depends upon what signals the cable propagates and cheap cables can have all kinds of messed up pin outs. I have a USB cable testing device and you wouldn't believe the liberties with the USB specifications some cable manufacturers perform to save a buck or two.

I hope that helps, and I hope your update issues resolve themselves. How did the factory reset work out?
 
I hope that helps, and I hope your update issues resolve themselves. How did the factory reset work out?

Doesn't appear to do anything at all. Did it multiple times, but my Bluetooth connections are still all there, etc as well as my WiFi settings. I would have expected a "reset" to put everything back to factory settings.
 
Doesn't appear to do anything at all. Did it multiple times, but my Bluetooth connections are still all there, etc as well as my WiFi settings. I would have expected a "reset" to put everything back to factory settings.
You would indeed expect that and if you were suspecting some cached file in that part of the system was fooling the bike into thinking the update had already been done, or similar. I suspect that reset is just resetting the user interface settings for which display settings you have. Bummer.

I suspect a trip to the dealer is probably in order. You could as a last resort post a question to Can Am on their website. I think it’s under the contact us section. They’ve been pretty good at answering those questions fairly promptly.
 
You would indeed expect that and if you were suspecting some cached file in that part of the system was fooling the bike into thinking the update had already been done, or similar. I suspect that reset is just resetting the user interface settings for which display settings you have. Bummer.

I suspect a trip to the dealer is probably in order. You could as a last resort post a question to Can Am on their website. I think it’s under the contact us section. They’ve been pretty good at answering those questions fairly promptly.

I'll try that. But since there are others that aren't being presented with the upgrade yet either, I'll wait a bit. Bike is rideable and I'd rather have my ***** pounded flat with a wooden hammer than take it to the dealer for anything.

I love how the State selector drop down is in no particular order on their feedback form :) Took me forever to find my state in that random list of states. WTH Can-Am?

EDIT: I posted a Poll on FB to see who has gotten the upgrade successfully and who has not, and what version they were on prior. Already had one user post screen shot of a v5.1.0 system showing "no updates available". So kinda shoots a hole in my theory that only v4.1.0 are being denied.
 
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I'll try that. But since there are others that aren't being presented with the upgrade yet either, I'll wait a bit. Bike is rideable and I'd rather have my ***** pounded flat with a wooden hammer than take it to the dealer for anything.

I love how the State selector drop down is in no particular order on their feedback form :) Took me forever to find my state in that random list of states. WTH Can-Am?

EDIT: I posted a Poll on FB to see who has gotten the upgrade successfully and who has not, and what version they were on prior. Already had one user post screen shot of a v5.1.0 system showing "no updates available". So kinda shoots a hole in my theory that only v4.1.0 are being denied.
If you don't use the USB A port for data, or perhaps Bluetooth connections, you might be OK.

The problem with the display going dark might be extremely dangerous, so at some time you might have to bite the bullet, put the wooden hammer away, and take it to the dealer.
 
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