Now there you go again, spoiling all the fun with your simple, effective, practical, inexpensive solutions!Two car ramps and a jack!![]()
![]()
That's what it seems like to me, also. Thanks for confirming my suspicion.As far as I can tell, the Pitbull lift is just a standard ATV lift. Any good ATV lift should be a good replacement for it.
Like with just about everything, you can go cheap, or you can go with quality.I have a Pitbull lift and there is no comparison to the light motorcycle lifts. It is heavier and larger footprint. If you go to Amazon, you will see the Vevor lift and a couple others with the larger base and lift capacity.
I agree.Like with just about everything, you can go cheap, or you can go with quality.
What I meant with my original statement is that the Pitbull lift is not a special, one off, unique product. It's an off the shelf item branded by Pitbull. Nothing wrong with this so I don't mean to be negative here. No reason to re-invent the wheel if there is already something that meets your criteria available.
The point being, that if you compare apples to apples, there are current production products out there that will competently replace your Pitbull lift.
Most may struggle to get to a 4.5 or even 4.3 inch clearance to the main frame member. But the HUGE danger is lifting on the shift bracket that hangs down right about where you want the rear lift arm. Even a slight tweek on this bracket will devastate your shifting ability (2014+ RT & F3 SE models only).With respect to ground clearance on my 2014 RTL, Google says;
The official ground clearance for a 2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-Limited (RTL) is 4.5 inches (115 mm), though some owner documentation lists it closer to 4.3 inches (110 mm)
My most recent measurement where a floor lift arm would go confirms that. The frame backbone where the lift actually goes is higher, but to get there, the lift has to clear some bits hanging down. BTW, this is a situation where the shorter lift arms are an advantage, as the center frame is not all that wide, and there are as I said, other bike pieces on either side that hang down lower.

Yes, I noticed that, thanks. Now I know what it is and to stay clear of it.But the HUGE danger is lifting on the shift bracket that hangs down right about where you want the rear lift arm. Even a slight tweek on this bracket will devistate your shifting ability (2014+ RT & F3 SE models only).
I don't mean to scare you off from using an ATV lift on your Spyder. Just be VERY careful when lifting that you stay away from this bracket located on the left side just about where the main frame member turns upward.
View attachment 257291
I ended up trying an aluminum lift from Harbor Freight I had laying around in the corner ignored for all these years and it seems perfect.Most may struggle to get to a 4.5 or even 4.3 inch clearance to the main frame member. But the HUGE danger is lifting on the shift bracket that hangs down right about where you want the rear lift arm. Even a slight tweek on this bracket will devistate your shifting ability (2014+ RT & F3 SE models only).

- 
These lifts are fine for lifting one end or the other. And you can get both ends up at the same time by supporting one with jack stands after lifting, moving the jack, and lifting the other end. But an ATV jack, correctly placed, will lift both ends at the same time and balance the bike. You still need to be careful because it's nowhere near a bullet proof stability. But done with reason and care, it can work well.I ended up trying an aluminum lift from Harbor Freight I had laying around in the corner ignored for all these years and it seems perfect. Slips right under the Spyder without contacting any dangling bits and with enough clearance to make maneuvering it around much easier. I wish it wasn't so wide, but I think all these ATV style lifts are going to have that issue. I'm not going to try balancing the Spyder on it, though, even if I could.