• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

looks great on the outside. but not on the inside

Cambello

New member
As part of my ongoing quest to find the solution to my DPS fault I finally got some spare time and did some investigation work under the seat. So up came the seat off came the piston bar and out came the two retaining bolts that secure the hinge section of the seat. Great! Unplug all the electrics and first job done. Now lets take a look.........hold on a minute.........those terminals are covered in dirt ........better take off the battery cover and check it out.......all I can say is the person who designed the outside went on holiday and left it to the cleaners to design the insides. Who on this earth allowed the electrical compartment to be open to the spray from the back wheel via the poorest designed interface I have ever seen. SHAME ON YOU! 20140223_094408.jpg




Oh and here's a tip, when you are putting back the bolts that hold the hinge section of the seat, stick some paper down the back so you don't loose the bolts.
20140223_111009.jpg

Once you have managed to locate the metal barrel's inside the hinge and have the bolts passing through the hinge section DON'T TIGHTEN THE BOLTS UP! LEAVE THEM LOOSE, locate and fix your Gas Strut and then close the seat. Once you have locked the seat and only then can you nip up the hinge bolts, and remove the paper from the "Cave of Dropped Bolts!!!!"
 
Last edited:
That kind of crud is not common in that location. Most motorcycle batteries are in open locations, some far more vulnerable. One of the reasons I remove my body panels on both the Spyders and the bikes with fairings is to clean things up on the inside at every oil change. I'd recommend cleaning things up thoroughly, montoring how things collect. I'm assuming all your "underwear" body panels are in place, but with that much dirt up that high, I wouldn't bet on it. I have seen a lot of Spyders on the inside, some after trips through the mud and crud, and some that lived through some pretty serious dust, and I have never seen a battery look like that. BTW, better check you air filter, too. This treally isn't a design issue, it is a maintenance problem...and possibly an environmental one.
 
Sometimes you can cause more problems with dirt/debris buildup by trying to prevent it with splash shields, covers, plates, plastics, etc etc.
Some of the cleanest bikes are naked bikes as everything is wide open.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
miss placed body panels

That kind of crud is not common in that location. Most motorcycle batteries are in open locations, some far more vulnerable. One of the reasons I remove my body panels on both the Spyders and the bikes with fairings is to clean things up on the inside at every oil change. I'd recommend cleaning things up thoroughly, montoring how things collect. I'm assuming all your "underwear" body panels are in place, but with that much dirt up that high, I wouldn't bet on it. I have seen a lot of Spyders on the inside, some after trips through the mud and crud, and some that lived through some pretty serious dust, and I have never seen a battery look like that. BTW, better check you air filter, too. This treally isn't a design issue, it is a maintenance problem...and possibly an environmental one.
Really? In that case ill have to strip down the bodywork and start again. The problem is the joint on the right of the battery can not see how it would joint together any better than what is already the case. If the bat is now present in the front then I would say that Can am have already identified this as an issue.
 
What you see there is the negative battery terminal. You will have to remove the left side body panels to acess the positive readily. The jump start posts are visible without removing anypanels, just raising the seat.
 
Really? In that case ill have to strip down the bodywork and start again. The problem is the joint on the right of the battery can not see how it would joint together any better than what is already the case. If the bat is now present in the front then I would say that Can am have already identified this as an issue.

I am with Scotty on this one. I have never seen that much dirt in that area before.

One of my concerns with the battery and fuse blocks being move to the front in 2013s is that it is now more exposed to water. Now a service bulletin has been issued for water in the fuse boxes, so it looks like I am right.
 
Trial by Jury

I am with Scotty on this one. I have never seen that much dirt in that area before.

One of my concerns with the battery and fuse blocks being move to the front in 2013s is that it is now more exposed to water. Now a service bulletin has been issued for water in the fuse boxes, so it looks like I am right.
Yeah I was a bit taken back by it when I opened the seat up, it looks more like a trial bike, But did you notice the area in which the ingress is occuring? just north of the + post. I think I can seal it up with some black mastic but I will have to perform a big clean up operation first. How ever after cleaning the posts up my DPS faults have gone, I think this weekend will see me taking this action to the next step.;)
 
Back
Top