• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What did you do to your Spyder today?

Put in the new leather Russell Daylong saddle and headed out in 34 degree weather after ten inches of snow two days ago. I can’t say I have ridden two days after firing up the snowblower 😃 The seat is very firm. I am hoping for an improved. I was “surviving “ with the stock seat and the Airhawk
 
Unfortunately, I packed mine up 'til next year, temps only going up to 5°C today, had snow flurries yesterday, 15°C tomorrow with heavy rain, and cold temps all next week.
Parked it on the bike lift, hooked up the tender, changed the oil and brake fluid last week.

View attachment 252413

Just noticed this... :unsure:

Here's a word of 'care' you might want to consider - while it's a great idea to change your oil at the end of a the season, so the engine/trans is left standing with clean, non-contaminated, non-corrosive oil in it; if you change (flush) your brake fluid BEFORE winter, by the time the warmer, less humid, weather comes around and you want to ride again, that 'fresh' brake fluid will have absorbed moisture from the air over winter and it (possibly? probably??) won't be quite so 'fresh' as you expect any longer - in fact, if the winter has been 'damp' rather than freezing, it could be just as bad/moisture contaminated as the old fluid you flushed out at the end of your riding last Autumn!! 😣

I was always taught to change the OIL before putting a vehicle up for a while; but if you weren't having brake problems that might be caused by contaminated fluid before laying the vehicle up for a while, to leave the brake fluid until you're ready to start using the vehicle again; and then flush the brake system with fresh brake fluid from a newly opened container. Or, if you can't/don't want to do that, then at the very least, check the brake fluid for moisture content as part of your 'pre-first ride/drive' checks (most auto parts/tools places have fairly cheap & easy to use probes to measure brake fluid moisture content), and if indicated, to change the brake fluid then, at the start of the new season, no matter how recently you changed it before, so that you KNOW you're starting the new season with brake fluid that doesn't already have too much moisture/water absorbed into it. ;)

There again, I do know a few people who make it a practice to flush their vehicle's brake fluid BEFORE laying their them up for a while, and then flush it again BEFORE starting to use the vehicle at the start of next season, but I feel that's maybe juuust a little bit like 'over-kill'!! :rolleyes:

Food for thought, possibly? Maybe?!? 😏
 
I just now ordered, finally, a set of Fobo TPMS for my F3.

Amazon has em for the lowest price that I've seen so far, $112.60 for the set of three.

I have my Spyder put away for the winter, debating on uncovering it to install the sensors and testing or waiting till Spring. I don't think that I can wait. lol

Better hurry!
 
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Repaired the sequential fender light on the right fender. It would come on but not be sequential. The break was at a crimp connector in the inner fender. I will never use crimp connectors again!!!!!! Have the solder type that seals agains water and is easy to use a heat gun on.

Lew L
 
I just now ordered, finally, a set of Fobo TPMS for my F3.

Amazon has em for the lowest price that I've seen so far, $112.60 for the set of three.

I have my Spyder put away for the winter, debating on uncovering it to install the sensors and testing or waiting till Spring. I don't think that I can wait. lol

Better hurry!

My suggestion is to wait 'til Spring. If you install them now, they will be transmitting tire pressure all Winter and unnecessarily using the internal battery in them. Just my .02
 
My suggestion is to wait 'til Spring. If you install them now, they will be transmitting tire pressure all Winter and unnecessarily using the internal battery in them. Just my .02

The TPMS I bought from Amazon for my Beemer transmits only when they are detecting motion. Good for battery life, but it also means that I don't get updated readings until I'm 1/4 mile down the road.
 
First oil and filter change (1250 miles). Went pretty smoothly, despite the Spyder's peculiarities (two drain plugs and that weird oil filter arrangement). Just a few small metal flakes and whiskers:

First oil change.jpg
 
My suggestion is to wait 'til Spring. If you install them now, they will be transmitting tire pressure all Winter and unnecessarily using the internal battery in them. Just my .02

Thanks, that's what I was thinking too. But I wanted to make sure that they work, with my luck, they'd be DOA and I'd miss the return period and have to mess around with warranty replacement.

It's a conundrum and my laziness will probably make my decision easier since I'd have to move my napping Miata out of the way so that I can roll the Spyder enough to get at the rear valve stem (yes, I checked). ;)
 
Add fuel stabilizer to both RT's yesterday, which means they're going into hibernation for the next few months. RDL is going to start my seat next week.
 
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