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How do I go about F3 top panel and cluster removal? Fitting Cruise Control to F3 Base...

Jester4439

New member
Evening group, I hope y'all don’t mind answering a question for me as I cannot seem to find the answer on my own. I have a 2015 F3 Base that I am adding cruise control to. I can get the right side panel off, but I am scratching my head on how much needs to come off and how in regards to the plastic cover under the gauge cluster and the cluster itself. Any help would be greatly appreciated . Thank you and merry Christmas.
 
161177-a7180f6eee0be69533500cf6b9a16240.jpg


If it is any thing like my 2020:

Windshield, mirrors, console trim, side panels, console panels, console trim, tank panel, remove 4 screws from gauge cluster, and disconnect gauge cluster; then you can lift it enough to do your wires.

I added the cruise control last year; I've just changed out my left hand switch as the paddle shifter was failing; and I'm getting ready to do my fuel filter.

You can also use this guide from @TheMariner

https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/2017-f3-s-fuel-filter-replacement-re-location.162398/
 
161177-a7180f6eee0be69533500cf6b9a16240.jpg


If it is any thing like my 2020.

Windshield, mirrors, console trim, side panels, console panels,console trim, tank panel, remove 4 screws from gauge cluster and disconnect gauge cluster then you can lift it enough to do your wires.

I added the cruise control last year, and just changed out my left hand switch as the paddle shifter was failing and getting ready to do my fuel filter.

You can also use this guide from mariner.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/2017-f3-s-fuel-filter-replacement-re-location.162398/
Thank you, I will compare it to mine. I know yours should have the updated gauges, but that should help.

The console panel and trim was what was puzzling me really. How do I remove them without breaking anything? This machine is garage kept, in mint shape, with less than 4000 miles. So I want to do it right.
 
Thank you, I will compare it to mine. I know yours should have the updated gauges, but that should help.

The console panel and trim was what was puzzling me really. How do I remove them without breaking anything? This machine is garage kept, in mint shape, with less than 4000 miles. So I want to do it right.
You may want to take advantage of this opportunity to change the fuel filter while you have everything off.

The console panels were scary to me at first but with the cold weather, I heated my garage first to warm up the plastic so it would not be so brittle.

Make sure all of the fasteners are out, and it is like a rotating motion lifting from bottom to top on the outside of the panel. It will feel like it is breaking then it just pops loose. The clips that hold them are near/on top of the tank panel.
 
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You may want to take advantage of this opportunity to change the fuel filter while you have everything off.

The console panels were scary to me at first but with the cold weather, I heated my garage first to warm up the plastic so it would not be so brittle.

Make sure all of the fasteners are out, and it is like a rotating motion lifting from bottom to top on the outside of the panel. It will feel like it is breaking then it just pops loose. The clips that hold them are near/on top of the tank panel.
Thank you, now I just need to order the part.

Another option is to buy the Acrobat PDF copy of the Repair and Maintenance Manual for your Spyder.
US $24.50 from:

I have the printed copy but not sure what area tells me the process of removing panels . Sorry, I am new to Spyders; I came from HD, where everything was exposed
 
I have the printed copy but not sure what area tells me the process of removing panels . Sorry, I am new to Spyders; I came from HD, where everything was exposed

I don't have a copy, as I don't intend to work on my Spyder.

Is there a table of contents or better yet, an index?
 
Sad to think a company that makes aircraft, puts panels together this way. 🤔
BRP hasn't made aircraft in nearly 20 years. BRP parted from Bombardier, Inc., in the early 2000's. That stated, it still is a crappy way to attach a panel. I've broken the itty-bitty tab at the corner off of the panel, scratched paint, etc. In a new state, the tab will release easier. As soon as one begins riding the machine, it gathers enough road dust to change the friction level between the catch and latch surfaces. Even it I didn't use my "tool", I would spray a soapy mix in that area to provide a bit of lubrication to facilitate the release.
 
161177-a7180f6eee0be69533500cf6b9a16240.jpg


If it is any thing like my 2020:

Windshield, mirrors, console trim, side panels, console panels, console trim, tank panel, remove 4 screws from gauge cluster, and disconnect gauge cluster; then you can lift it enough to do your wires.

I added the cruise control last year; I've just changed out my left hand switch as the paddle shifter was failing; and I'm getting ready to do my fuel filter.

You can also use this guide from @TheMariner

https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/2017-f3-s-fuel-filter-replacement-re-location.162398/
Sir, I am at a crossroads.

It’s the F3 base model.

I don't want to break anything, but how do you remove the keyway ignition, so I can get that trim piece off, so I can get the tank cover off?
 
Sir, I am at a crossroads.

It’s the F3 base model.

I don't want to break anything, but how do you remove the keyway ignition, so I can get that trim piece off, so I can get the tank cover off?
Turn the round plastic around the key counter clockwise about a quarter turn, then pull the circular piece out, that will release the rest of the trim around the keyway.
 
161177-a7180f6eee0be69533500cf6b9a16240.jpg


If it is any thing like my 2020:

Windshield, mirrors, console trim, side panels, console panels, console trim, tank panel, remove 4 screws from gauge cluster, and disconnect gauge cluster; then you can lift it enough to do your wires.

I added the cruise control last year; I've just changed out my left hand switch as the paddle shifter was failing; and I'm getting ready to do my fuel filter.

You can also use this guide from @TheMariner

https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/2017-f3-s-fuel-filter-replacement-re-location.162398/

Sir, I hate to bother you again, but I have tried about every way to get the stock right hand plug up through the handlebar risers to install my new housing with cruise control; and shy of cutting it off, I can’t figure out a way! Please help. I attached some photos...

IMG_0983.jpeg - IMG_0982.jpeg
 
I've never done the install, but I wonder if the black plastic panel is screwed to the headstock? If so, could the screws be loosened to allow more clearance? I'm also wondering if it would help to remove the white plastic clip from the plug. Hang in there Jester, you'll get this.

Sarah
 
Sir, I hate to bother you again, but I have tried about every way to get the stock right hand plug up through the handlebar risers to install my new housing with cruise control; and shy of cutting it off, I can’t figure out a way! Please help. I attached some photos...

View attachment 253047 - View attachment 253048
Do You have an F3 or RT?

The RT, from what I have read is run down through the frame like that and requires the connector to be de-pinned. But my F3 and others usually have the cable running forward of the steering column and runs down next to the fuel line.

cableroute.JPG
 
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I've never done the install, but I wonder if the black plastic panel is screwed to the headstock? If so, could the screws be loosened to allow more clearance? I'm also wondering if it would help to remove the white plastic clip from the plug. Hang in there Jester, you'll get this.

Sarah
Thank you, I took a break from it, said a few prayers and came back to it and after removing the white clip and finagling with that thick heat wrap I got it out but still took more prying that I would like on a plastic electrical connector. My new housing is set for delivery today.
 
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