• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

2024 Dash Display suddenly changing &/or freezing - anyone else? Any fixes?

I'll ask again about the displays in question, Are they being exposed to direct sunlight when these issues are happening? I used to work on the DMV's version of ATM's called ETM's and they would have numerous issues when the display was exposed directly to the Sun and it would overheat causing the display to start "locking up" and would eventually end in failure or "going dark". Once I recommended awnings to shade these devices they would no longer have issues with the machine.
 
I know you might think this silly, but screens going black and then having to roll the throttle to get past the warning REALLY smacks of a dud or dying Spyder battery!! :oops:

If you've got a 2020+ Spyder that's having any issues like this, and especially if the battery is still the OEM Haiju or whatever battery, then so many people have had problems with them that yours has got to be suspect!! So if you do have one of them, I'd suggest that it's likely well past time for getting it load tested and looking for at least if not better than 12 volts under load... they really are crap batteries that aren't properly suited to the task, and from numerous owner's experiences reported here on the Forum, one of them lasting anything much more than 6 months and still being able to run everything properly all the time is beginning to look somewhat akin to a full blown miracle! :eek:

You might scoff at the idea, but seriously, why the bleedin' 'eck are any of you continuing to put up with these symptoms without doing this most basic of tests?? What can it hurt to check your battery properly and remove any doubt about it being at least a part of your problem?! :unsure: Sure, it might not have anything to do with whatever your Spyder's doing, but there's enough people reporting similar issues here that're ending up being resolved by replacing the crap batteries that anyone experiencing these sorta freezing or blank/black screen problems without doing that load test first up and confirming that it's not (or otherwise) the battery, everything/anything else you do could be a complete waste of time!! 😖

Just Sayin' ;)

I have a new Motobat battery and it’s very strong. I'm not saying it’s not the battery, but I highly doubt it. I have a tester and I will do that, but the screen froze on CarPlay map stop could scroll anywhere for about 20 Km’s ago before didn’t notice, but it's not like I look at it all the time…

As well, I had been riding for about 6.5 hrs that day, so that would also mean the charging system is screwed.

So I check the update I had the latest firmware, BUT there seems to be a revision with the same numbering? Anyway, I did it so will see. Today was cleaning the bike and yard work, tomorrow another ride.

I'll ask again about the displays in question, Are they being exposed to direct sunlight when these issues are happening? I used to work on the DMV's version of ATM's called ETM's and they would have numerous issues when the display was exposed directly to the Sun and it would overheat causing the display to start "locking up" and would eventually end in failure or "going dark". Once I recommended awnings to shade these devices they would no longer have issues with the machine.

Mine wasn’t directly in the sun at that point, it was partially cloudy 🌥️
 
Thanks, so that can be eliminated . I have seen a good bit this on other equipment with LCD displays and wanted to help rule it out.

We did a few rides, 350 Km’s or so, and no other issues. I’m hoping this was the first version of the firmware that wasn’t playing nice. I will keep an eye out for that.
 
I wanted to get in on this conversation. I have a 2024 S2S and have the problem of the screen just going blank while riding and the only way to get it to reset is to stop; turn the bike off; and allow it to fully shut down. After this, when I turn the key back on, it works fine. I don't use CarPlay. Here is my journey to this point:
  1. - Picked up the bike in July 2024 with a trailer hitch and wiring installed by the dealer.
  2. - I installed a GARMIN GPS.
  3. - First time it happened was later in July.
  4. - I contacted the dealer and they were working with BRP to find a solution.
  5. - I installed additional lights.
  6. - The issue is unpredictable, it happens in hot, cloudy, and cold weather.
  7. - October 2024, the dealer was directed by BRP to replace the wiring harness, I could not make it to the dealership before the snow came.
  8. - April 2025, I had to install a new battery (I had a contractor unplug the trickle charger in Nov 25) - living in Canada, there is too much snow to ride from Nov thru Apr.
  9. - May 2025, the dealer installed a new wiring harness.
  10. - Jun 2025, I did a 3,500km trip over 7 days with no issues.
  11. - July 4th, I did a 250km trip, but about 20 km before getting to our destination, the screen went blank again.
  12. - BRP has released new software that I installed on July 21st.
  13. - I'm now waiting on the dealer and BRP to come up with any other/the next steps.

The biggest problem is that I cannot find any way to repeat the problem. This make it more difficult to trouble shoot.

I would like to know if anyone has had similar issues, and what solutions you have seen that fixed the problem?

Thanks
 
While on trip last week and using google maps, the screen would freeze up, especially when I did not start in the direction that the map wanted, say, when leaving a parking lot or so. I would have to stop and do a restart.
 
Check if you are running the latest firmware release, V 5.1.0.

As previously suggested, also check your battery voltage with the bike off, then ignition on and not running, then while starting, and lastly, with it running.

FYI, my Spyder, a 2026 Sea to Sky, actually came standard with a Yuasa battery not a Haiju one. I don’t know if that’s an issue? Perhaps they have multiple suppliers and the Yuasa batteries are just better?

What I did do, on day one, was add a pigtail for my battery maintainer. The battery straps were not very tight so I certainly tightened them up a fair bit after adding the pigtail. Folks might want to make sure their battery terminals were tightened down sufficiently during the assembly and PDI process at the dealer.

So far I’ve not had any display related issues. I did also upgrade my firmware to V 5.1.0 from the V 4.1.0 as it was when I took delivery earlier this year. It was assembled two days before I picked it up but it was still handed over to me one release behind. I thought they would have upgraded it to the latest release when they initialized everything with BUDS3. I upgraded it just three days later, so I suppose there was a window there.

I’ve also kept my iPhone updated and I’m currently running 26.5.2. The cable I use is a high quality USB 3.0 certified one, though I know it only runs at sub USB 2.0 speeds on the Spyder. I don’t connect my phone to the Spyder via Bluetooth, just my helmet.

Just an FYI with what works for me.
 
Mine ran fine here the other day and the temps here were 107°F at the time according to the bike.

I didn’t run fine though and I came home when my coolant vest ran out of the cold coolant pack inserts.

Fortunately we are back into the high 90’s now. Still too dang hot for me, but there you go.
 
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