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2015 ST Ltd: Where does your rear caliper lie?

Columbia

Member
I failed to take photos. A buddy did the disassembly. Now I'm putting things back together.
Good news is I saw how bad the brake pads are and sent BajaRon some money. I'll replace all three sets.
Here's my question: Where does the caliper lie? (If you have a digital clock or watch, go find your old one. Linear timekeeping devices are about to be referenced!)
In photos I've found on line, (none of which show a 2015 ST) the caliper is at the bottom, the 6:00 o'clock position, in relation to the brake's rotor.
I've got the caliper mounting plate placed the only way I can see to do it (with the elongated hole toward the front of the bike, resting on the metal peg there for it to mount/rest). That puts the caliper more toward four o'clock, with the two caliper bolts going in with one low the other high (Picture one hole at 3:00 o'clock, the other at 2:00, sticking with my clock metaphor)
Maybe I've got that plate in the wrong place?
I've either got that mounting plate improperly positioned or my ST, unlike every other Spyder whose rear brake I've seen, has the caliper mounted differently, i.e. not at the bottom of the rotor.
I know the ST was short lived. So it's a bit of an odd duck. Like me, I guess. But this odd?
A photo showing the caliper orientation on a 2015 ST would be the cat's meow. And/or a sketch of how the "mounting plate" fits IF the photo shows the caliper at the six o'clock position.
I had hoped to be back riding last week. This has taken far too long. (Finding someone to mount the new tire was part of the difficulty. I had the fronts done a year ago for $40.00. This year the rear alone was $50.00 to mount. Different shop; the first is no more.) Now I'm waiting on the USPS for pads from Ron. I'm slow, but it takes me awhile.
Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Enjoy the day
 
The rear caliper is BELOW the swingarm. Or something like 4-6 position. Without some pics, it's hard to tell what happened. That sub plate can easily see if can be put on backwards. Don't know if it would even fit. It has to go thru axle hole, then I think 2 bolts line up somewhere.

EDIT: been a while since I changed a rear tire. But that sub plate looks like a slot for a pin and 1 bolt from inside. Look at that schematic in your other thread, you will see the orientation.
 
The caliper goes in the same position on all Spyders of the same vintage, regardless of their models. So if you can find/see a pic of an RT, ST, or an RSS brake caliper that was made/sold any time between 2013 and 2016, their caliper will be oriented the same way. I'm pretty sure that all the 2014 on RT's and F3's are the same as yours too, altho I cannot get out to take pics &/or check on the 2020+ models atm, but I'm pretty sure you're just over-thinking/worrying about this - and I'm sure there's really no easy way to fit the actual brake caliper incorrectly on these things. Some of the parts that bolt onto it, yeah, maybe; but not the caliper itself! :cautious:

So go on, JUST DO IT!! I'm sure you'll work it out.(y)

Just don't run the bike with the rear wheel spinning in the air before you put it back down and ride. That's likely to give you error codes &/or limp mode. So keep the ignition OFF until it's on all three wheels again, and gently test ride it only then. If you do get error codes or limp mode after a brake change/rear wheel removal, often just gently riding it 100 metres or so with some turning back and forth will clear them. So have confidence, the chances are you're doing it all OK! ;)

Good Luck! :)
 
Thanks to you both. Like most folks, I have confidence in topics/ventures about which I have knowledge and/or experience.
I like wrenching, but it has never been my vocation. I would cost the shop too much! Just about the time I know what I'm doing, that bike goes away and I have to figure out a new brand or model and its ways of working and not working.
If the plate can mount only one way, MOUNT THE D*** THING, already!
I hear you.
Enjoy the day
 
Update
Now waiting for new pads, front and rear, from Baja Ron. Rear had one half gone, the other nearly all material abraded away. Figure if that's the rear, the fronts are at least as bad. I'll be doing them all, then the oil change, then on the road. A three day project has morphed into almost three weeks. That's how I roll.
Anyone know how Lamont of Lamonster is doing? Caught a video update a short time ago that didn't sound great.
 
The rear brake pad set will wear faster than the fronts on a Spyder unless you are really hammering them a lot. This is because the ECM biases the front and rear applications.

The rear always comes on first and goes off last. This is to stabilize the machine when braking. So, with a soft touch, the fronts aren't doing much braking at all. If you are easy to middling on brake applications, this translates into faster rear pad wear.

In hard or panic stop braking, the bias goes to the front wheels, as it does with most vehicles. Because roughly 70% of stopping power is in front. I suspect the ratio is even higher than this average with the Spyder.

Another thing to remember is that as pads wear, the speed at which they wear slows. So when you have 50% of pad thickness remaining, you have more than 50% of the pad life left. This is because as the pads get thinner, more heat is more quickly transferred to the caliper and brake fluid, allowing the pads to achieve lower temperatures and increase their life span.
 
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Ron
Thank you. That's new information to me. Never driven a bike with a brain. I've ordered pads all around (from you) but I'll certainly check before installing the fronts. I should have done them all when I bought the bike (used). Lazy, I guess. Still some wear left on the rear, but enough is gone to warrant replacement.
Might you know why one pad is well-worn, the other roughly half-worn? As I install new pads, is there something I can do to cause the wearing to be even?
Do shims effect pads wearing more on the inside vs. outside? No shims fell when removing the caliper; perhaps the previous owner missed something? Or there were no shims to begin with?
I am a curious fellow.
I used to ride two wheels, and assumed (we know what assume means!) that the fronts on a Spyder did more work than the rear.
I avoid hard braking unless demanded. I try to start braking early, so panic stops are rare. Of course, there are others on the road at the same time and sometimes those others instigate a panic stop on my part. Fortunately, I've found them rare.
Again: multiple thanks for edumacating me!
 
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