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6 Hour Oil Change!

Rando

New member
I decided to do the first 3,000 mile oil change today and it turned into a nightmare. All went well until I tried to remove the engine oil drain plug. It was so tight I had to use a cheater bar to get it to move and when it did move, it stripped! I had previously purchased Gold Plugs to replace the OEM ones since I knew the OEM ones are prone to stripping. Well, it took twice as long as I had planned but I was finally able to get it out and get it done.

If you do your own oil changes, I highly recommend replacing the OEM drain plugs with your next oil change.
 
I decided to do the first 3,000 mile oil change today and it turned into a nightmare. All went well until I tried to remove the engine oil drain plug. It was so tight I had to use a cheater bar to get it to move and when it did move, it stripped! I had previously purchased Gold Plugs to replace the OEM ones since I knew the OEM ones are prone to stripping. Well, it took twice as long as I had planned but I was finally able to get it out and get it done.

If you do your own oil changes, I highly recommend replacing the OEM drain plugs with your next oil change.

I did my 12K oil change and had the same experiance :opps:. I knew about the gold plugs but did not order before hand but now have you waiting for the next oil change. I wish I had thought ahead like you did.
 
I've had similar problems on my other machines.

I think that the problem is caused by the application of continuous load to unscrew the plug resulting in tearing and failure.
Got myself a Sears impact driver on mine and found it came out clean as a whistle.
Tighten it by hand though...!!! and make sure the threads, internal and external, are clean.
 
Drain plugs will all require more torque to remove them than to install them. That is the nature of crush washers, as well as the nature of steel plugs in alloy cases. It is important to use the correct tool when removing the drain plugs. They are hex capscrews, rather than the torx on the rest of the vehicle. Use of torx tools will strip them. Be aware that the torx tool will seem to fit, until force is applied. I also recommend against the use of Allen wrenches. These are often made of a poor quality steel, and can round over and strip. They also put an odd angle of force on the plug, and can readily tip...and strip. I use a hex socket on a 3/8" ratchet, with or without a short extension. I push the socket fully into the drain plug, and hold it there with one hand while I turn the ratchet with the other. You may have to bang the ratchet handle with the palm of your hand to break the plug loose. I have never stripped or rounded a plug using these tools and techniques.
 
Rando, not to steal the thread but are you riding Sunday and if so where could someone meet up with you ? Thanks Rick
 
I too purchased the Gold plugs but I had my dealer put them in at the 600 mile check knowing I would be doing the next oil change.
 
It is important to use the correct tool when removing the drain plugs. They are hex capscrews, rather than the torx on the rest of the vehicle. Use of torx tools will strip them.
5MM & 6MM Hex like the one shown is what I used.

The more I think about it, I wouldn't be surprised if my dealer used a torx when they did the 600 mile service. The screws for the filter covers looked chewed up to me!
 

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5MM & 6MM Hex like the one shown is what I used.

The more I think about it, I wouldn't be surprised if my dealer used a torx when they did the 600 mile service. The screws for the filter covers looked chewed up to me!
Yeah, if they chewed it up before, you didn't stand a chance.
 
wow!

Glad I used the right tool. (I think). Went to Sears and got Craftsman set for about $10.00. You can buy both sets you will need for less than
one oil change at the dealer. Hell! you can buy a lot of tools for what the dealer will charge. I feel better now.:thumbup:
 
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