-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Air Compressor not working, Air bag not holding air - is this normal? Any fixes?
- Thread starter Chuppy
- Start date
Grandpot
Active member
Doc Humphries likes to get at it from the bottom by removing the rear wheel.
I like to go in from the top by removing the rear storage compartment module. It puts less strain on my body.
Go to YouTube and search for Can Am Spyder compressor and you will find both of our videos.
It's like the difference between taking out a hemorrhoid or a tonsil. :yikes:
I like to go in from the top by removing the rear storage compartment module. It puts less strain on my body.
Go to YouTube and search for Can Am Spyder compressor and you will find both of our videos.
It's like the difference between taking out a hemorrhoid or a tonsil. :yikes:
DGoebel
Well-known member
Chuppy, I did it removing the entire rear section, followed the video, there is more in the threads
Only 8 months after replacement, ACS failed again
and ACS Rebuild and Rear shock, airbag etc
Only 8 months after replacement, ACS failed again
and ACS Rebuild and Rear shock, airbag etc
Options
If you unplug the air ride dump valve, you can manually air it up and the air should stay in unless you have a BAD leak. Do a site search and you should find some pictures and directions to unplug it. This will get you by until you get the compressor replaced.
Mine has failed twice, and I put a quick unplug connection under the seat so I can just air it up manually and ride it home while out riding double... If you ride single you should be able to ride it without any air in the bag... larryd
If you unplug the air ride dump valve, you can manually air it up and the air should stay in unless you have a BAD leak. Do a site search and you should find some pictures and directions to unplug it. This will get you by until you get the compressor replaced.
Mine has failed twice, and I put a quick unplug connection under the seat so I can just air it up manually and ride it home while out riding double... If you ride single you should be able to ride it without any air in the bag... larryd
HeartHopper
New member
Self Adjusting Passenger Shock Compressor Failure
Looks like I have joined the failed compressor club.
Stopped into my dealer today.
They plugged in and attempted to inflate/deflate with no luck.
Funny thing is no faults detected in past history but I know I saw shock failure fault.
My 2017 F3 Limited has only 4,000 miles.
Watch it be warranty part and $500 in labor.:banghead:
Looks like I have joined the failed compressor club.
Stopped into my dealer today.
They plugged in and attempted to inflate/deflate with no luck.
Funny thing is no faults detected in past history but I know I saw shock failure fault.
My 2017 F3 Limited has only 4,000 miles.
Watch it be warranty part and $500 in labor.:banghead:
cptjam
Registered User
Rudy,
Just remove the right bits: mirror, upper, middle, side and lower panel, and wind deflector. Follow the line from the Schrader valve under the seat to the valve. Disconnect. Then follow the line from the airbag to the compressor. Disconnect at the compressor. Then connect the lines and you end up with a direct line from the Schrader valve to the airbag. All the parts to do this are already on the bike. Air up the bag, measure from the rear fender to the ground. Go ride. Measure again tomorrow. If it has not dropped, bag ok. We did a lady months ago, and hers is still holding air. Lots of Spyder's don’t have compressors. Check it weekly, and air it manually. Best part? No cost! You can buy a compressor for $50 or less that plugs into your battery tender, carry that with you, and be fine. If you need help, call. Easy job. Joe
Just remove the right bits: mirror, upper, middle, side and lower panel, and wind deflector. Follow the line from the Schrader valve under the seat to the valve. Disconnect. Then follow the line from the airbag to the compressor. Disconnect at the compressor. Then connect the lines and you end up with a direct line from the Schrader valve to the airbag. All the parts to do this are already on the bike. Air up the bag, measure from the rear fender to the ground. Go ride. Measure again tomorrow. If it has not dropped, bag ok. We did a lady months ago, and hers is still holding air. Lots of Spyder's don’t have compressors. Check it weekly, and air it manually. Best part? No cost! You can buy a compressor for $50 or less that plugs into your battery tender, carry that with you, and be fine. If you need help, call. Easy job. Joe
Last edited:
Big Juice
Member
Yep, mine quit working about a month ago, but the pump seams to still work, but the bag won't hold air, so hope to take it in next week to see what's going on. Oh, and I'm out of warranty by one month when it happened, no they won't back date it, but I have an extended warranty that will hopefully cover it. I may even consider a 2-up shock, I have heard good things about them.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
IMHO - the Air bag and the shock spring don't really accomplish the same thing. The two-up shock can't re-place a functioning Air bag. Good luck .… Mike
hensmanj4220
New member
2011 Can Am Spyder RTS - SE5
Since the air compressor seems to fail normally from BRP and there is a replacement suggested - VIAIR 097C (Part # 00097 from 12 Vac), you would think Spyder would want or suggest as an alternative to their failed product. I understand that modifications are needed to brake line to clear the VIAR unit, which requires bleed brakes?
Question - does anyone know the process of checking support equipment that may have failed - when it is not the compressor? I.E. Fuse; air compressor limit switch; check valve; etc. before taking down everything?
There must be a simple check method as a process of elimination as to the real cause of the failure to not air up? If there is an answer - need to determine how to retrieve this from the forum (directly or indirectly) once answered without searching and searching the posting????? And I don't know whether it can be sent directly to us once posted... HELP!
Since the air compressor seems to fail normally from BRP and there is a replacement suggested - VIAIR 097C (Part # 00097 from 12 Vac), you would think Spyder would want or suggest as an alternative to their failed product. I understand that modifications are needed to brake line to clear the VIAR unit, which requires bleed brakes?
Question - does anyone know the process of checking support equipment that may have failed - when it is not the compressor? I.E. Fuse; air compressor limit switch; check valve; etc. before taking down everything?
There must be a simple check method as a process of elimination as to the real cause of the failure to not air up? If there is an answer - need to determine how to retrieve this from the forum (directly or indirectly) once answered without searching and searching the posting????? And I don't know whether it can be sent directly to us once posted... HELP!
Similar threads
