Aluma 638 trailer, where to place tie down points?

[k1hog]

Aluma 638 trailer, where to place tie down points?

Where do I put tie down points on the Aluma 638 trailer, to hall the Spyder

Pictures would be great.

Thanks

 

[2dogs]

There are a number of tie-down options and styles. Research this site and you will find many options along with photos and references as to where to purchase items you'll need.

 

[Bfromla]

:congrats::agree: & additions/ revisions can be be made later. In mean time you can load :spyder2: up finding good balance point, with proper space from side rails. (Maybe go ahead & mark locations of tires)as far as type of attachment heres one of many Walmart * have not tried just have pic*

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Aluma 638 trailer, where to place tie down points?

Where do I put tie down points on the Aluma 638 trailer, to hall the Spyder

Pictures would be great.

Thanks

After you get ( or make ) front wheel chocks ..... I ( and many others here ) put a HD Ratchet strap over the rear tire ( in-line with treads ) it must be secured to the floor Front and Rear .... then tighten it well ..... that tire ( and your Spyder ) will NEVER move... this method leaves NO possibility for Damage to the Spyder not even Paint scuffs .... also it super fast ..... Good luck ...... look in the achieves for pics of how others have done it ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[k1hog]

What I am trying to understand is where and what on the trailer to hook the tie down straps to.

Thanks

 

[always young]

I'll add my experience to this conversation. Last year I purchased an aluminum trailer, same one as at Tractor Supply. It's has a 10 foot X 65 inch bed with a ramp on the back which can't be used because it's angle is too steep. I used the clamping package as noted from Walmart, but, found out that you don't need (can't use) the back chucks because once you drive forward on them, you'll be hard pressed to get the wheels to back out of them. Skid marks on my trailer attest to that. Anyway, I took the aft chucks off and just used a short e-track plate instead. It's just as solid. For the rear tie down, I place a strap around the rear peg going down to a ring and back to a tie down point. Took a 2K mile trip this way and nothing moved or slackened up even over some rough roads. I ended up using three bike ramps to load the bike. I shorted the center one by 12 inches so that the nose doesn't contact first before the wheels start onto the ramps. I have several pictures of my setup and will try to attach them. The pins on the ramps fit over the rear frame into holes in the wood floor to prevent them from moving. I have since removed the trailer ramp (useless) and increased my gas mileage by 4 MPG.

All the dang pictures are upside down. :banghead:

 

[Valiant]

I'll add my experience to this conversation. Last year I purchased an aluminum trailer, same one as at Tractor Supply. It's has a 10 foot X 65 inch bed with a ramp on the back which can't be used because it's angle is too steep. I used the clamping package as noted from Walmart, but, found out that you don't need (can't use) the back chucks because once you drive forward on them, you'll be hard pressed to get the wheels to back out of them. Skid marks on my trailer attest to that. Anyway, I took the aft chucks off and just used a short e-track plate instead. It's just as solid. For the rear tie down, I place a strap around the rear peg going down to a ring and back to a tie down point. Took a 2K mile trip this way and nothing moved or slackened up even over some rough roads. I ended up using three bike ramps to load the bike. I shorted the center one by 12 inches so that the nose doesn't contact first before the wheels start onto the ramps. I have several pictures of my setup and will try to attach them. The pins on the ramps fit over the rear frame into holes in the wood floor to prevent them from moving. I have since removed the trailer ramp (useless) and increased my gas mileage by 4 MPG. View attachment 189384View attachment 189385View attachment 189386View attachment 189387View attachment 189388View attachment 189389View attachment 189390View attachment 189391View attachment 189392
View attachment 189393
All the dang pictures are upside down. :banghead:

Where do you get those type of straps and the rails they click into? As seen in upside down pic #2

Edit. And then I looked at amazon.

 

[K80Shooter]

Any big truck/trailer parts place will have them.

 

[Eviltwin]

I use an aluma 7810 to haul an RT behind the camper and I wonder how that bike or any spyder would fit on a smaller trailer. When I first got the trailer home, I did some testing to see where I needed to mount some chocks for the front wheels so my tongue weight would be within reason. I ended up with the wheels being about 12 inches back from the front edge. Because the spyder is pretty front heavy it had to go back some so the rear wheel was well behind the axle to balance it out. As it is when the bike is loaded up on the trailer there is not all that much room to spare.

To answer your questions about tie downs, I added some to the front that I got off Amazon. They are stainless d-rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074VFJ96D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are rated for 6k lbs and I bolted them in with Stainless carriage bolts through the front and sides. Between the extra tiedowns and the existing ones and the chocks, the bike doesnt move.

 

[k1hog]

Aluma 638 setup to carry Spyder!

This is how I configured the Aluma 638 trailer to carry Spyder, Front tie downs through front wheels then hook under trailer. Rear tie downs from rear swing arm to rear side tie down points. Spyder is set back from front bumper to reduce tung weight.

 

[milryder]

Opinions please: I have to take my RT somewhere first thing in morning about 150 miles. I have only tied down motorcycles so need a quick read of my tie down. I have an Aluma trailer and have looped two tie downs through rear wheel and tied off at 45 degree angle. I looped a strap through both front wheels and tied off at 45 degree angle. The brake is on and gear in neutral. Bike faces forward. The straps are very snug but not he-man tight.

I don't have time to acquire gear for some of the methods listed here so hoping this will be adequate for now. I seldom will be trailering it.

 

[canamjhb]

Opinions please: I have to take my RT somewhere first thing in morning about 150 miles. I have only tied down motorcycles so need a quick read of my tie down. I have an Aluma trailer and have looped two tie downs through rear wheel and tied off at 45 degree angle. I looped a strap through both front wheels and tied off at 45 degree angle. The brake is on and gear in neutral. Bike faces forward. The straps are very snug but not he-man tight.

I don't have time to acquire gear for some of the methods listed here so hoping this will be adequate for now. I seldom will be trailering it.

I would avoid going through the wheels if you can. Try looking for some places on the frame or other very secure place to attach your ties. If you must go through the wheels, use some padding like towels for your straps. Most wheels have edges that can cut nylon ties easily while under way. Stop and check your load a few times on your trip. Good luck..... Jim

 

[milryder]

Thanks will check that out. Didn’t want to use tie rods either. Front wheels won’t get much pressure with soft acceleration. Hard to find anything underneath.

 

[Wmoater]

I had to crawl under and really look for good tie down spots. I have a really tricky tie down situation to do this June. There are 2 very easy solid tie down spots under the older spyder 14-19 RT. Stick your hands under the spyder right where the swaybar channel. There are 2 2inch holes in the frame facing forward and reverse. It’s solid steel U channel that is part of the frame. Put a ratchet strap hook in the hole and crisscross left to right. You don’t need to lay down even to hook it in. Come in sideways. I use a strap over the rear tire and crisscross the front and it can’t move.

 

[larryd]

I had to crawl under and really look for good tie down spots. I have a really tricky tie down situation to do this June. There are 2 very easy solid tie down spots under the older spyder 14-19 RT. Stick your hands under the spyder right where the swaybar channel. There are 2 2inch holes in the frame facing forward and reverse. It’s solid steel U channel that is part of the frame. Put a ratchet strap hook in the hole and crisscross left to right. You don’t need to lay down even to hook it in. Come in sideways. I use a strap over the rear tire and crisscross the front and it can’t move.

I have my 2014 RTS up on my garage lift now...I just went out and looked and mine has 2 rows of holes on both sides. 4 facing rear and 4 facing front...Total of 8 holes...The holes vary in size from 5/8" to 1 3/16"...Looks like a good solid spot for open hooks...Don't know how to post pictures here but I could e-mail them...larryd South Central PA...

 

[Wmoater]

Here’s a picture I posted about a month ago on tricky tie down. Notice it’s just off the center beam and it’s the channel the sway bar goes in. The swaybar itself is way up. Your hooking to the frame not any movable part.