Battery Replacement 2015-RT-Limited

[Elembytes]

Hello:

I am curious how difficult it is to replace the OEM Battery with another OEM Yuasa Battery? I have a battery tender and a Jump Starting port connected to the current battery.

Due to CoronaVirus we cannot travel to Lamonster Garage or Pitbull to get a new battery and have it installed.

Are there any video’s available that show how to do it. I am mechanically inclined and have small hands but a bad back so think I should be able to do it myself but wanted to see if you all had any advice.


Thank you in advance!

ray:

 

[trikermutha]

They are pretty easy to do. Two screws (Torx) in the frunk remove the battery cover. Remove battery strap. Loosen/remove battery terminal screws. Lift battery out.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

They are pretty easy to do. Two screws (Torx) in the frunk remove the battery cover. Remove battery strap. Loosen/remove battery terminal screws. Lift battery out.

Lifting the Battery out will be the hardest part, it's in there pretty tight and it's a little heavy .... re-connect everything ....BUT before you do that get some STAR washers and put them on the terminals before tightening them .... Spyders SHAKE and loose terminals are a common problem ..... good luck ..... do you know someone who could lift it out for you ???? ..... Mike hyea:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

They are pretty easy to do. Two screws (Torx) in the frunk remove the battery cover. Remove battery strap. Loosen/remove battery terminal screws. Lift battery out.

Add one more step. Pull the battery cables up and out of the way as much as you can to keep them from getting in between the battery and the top of the opening. Oh, and tilt the battery forward before lifting it.

 

[JayBros]

See the instructions on pg 130-131 of your operator's guide; it is a very easy job. There are two flat prongs on the rearward edge of the battery hold down plate that sits atop the battery and is held in place by the rubber strap at the front of the battery. The prongs must fit into two slots on the upper rear wall of the battery compartment. In my experience that was the most difficult job, getting them positioned correctly, but that is only because visibility is a bit restricted because you're working at the bottom rear of the frunk. I used a mirror to help me guide them in place.

 

[trikermutha]

Yeah I will agree a bit a fiddling to lift and tilt the battery but for the most part its pretty simple. Moving the cables are a must too.

 

[spyderider1]

All good points of advice. Something to add; it's a very tight fit and as stated you'll need to tip the top of the battery when taking the old one out. When putting the new battery in you'll just reverse the process. Be patient, getting the plate on top hooked properly takes some trial and error too. You can do this!

 

[Garf]

Lifting the Battery out will be the hardest part, it's in there pretty tight and it's a little heavy .... re-connect everything ....BUT before you do that get some STAR washers and put them on the terminals before tightening them .... Spyders SHAKE and loose terminals are a common problem ..... good luck ..... do you know someone who could lift it out for you ???? ..... Mike hyea:

A big +1 for STAR washers. When I was in the Pro Audio business, STAR washers solved a multitude of problems
from mounting connections to bad grounds (noise). A miracle cure and must have for all audio rack building.

 

[Revalden]

I'm 169 miles from you, if it was worth it to you to ride or trailer it down here I would be happy to do it for you. My wife won't let me out of the house these days. :gaah:

 

[triplethreat]

I'm 169 miles from you, if it was worth it to you to ride or trailer it down here I would be happy to do it for you. My wife won't let me out of the house these days. :gaah:

What a generous offer! I don't even know you, but thank you for being such a nice guy!

 

[Revalden]

What a generous offer! I don't even know you, but thank you for being such a nice guy!

Thank you. If it weren't for this damn virus I would have just ridden up there. I'm retired and have too much time on my hands and don't usually have enough money to do Management's Honey-Do s. If anyone else has something they don't know how to do, ya'll are welcome to come on over/up/down. I can also do the Vents on your Spyder, might take a couple of hours to do. I've even thought of loading our little trailer with some of the most used tools and do a mobile mechanic type of deal.

 

[eddieshep999]

When removing you should First remove the - Negative lead and then the + Positive Lead
Whilst undoing the + Lead if you were to accidentally touch any metal part with you wrench it will not short out the battery
Once you put the New Battery in you should Connect the + Positive Lead first followed by the - Negative Lead for the same reason as before
I put tape over the terminals once the Leads had been removed to ensure the disconnected Leads could not make connection until i got the battery out
And put tape on the new battery terminals until it was in place and I was ready to reconnect the Leads

 

[Gruntled]

Great, informative thread. Does the same procedure apply to a 2014 RT? I removed the rubber battery keeper, leads and the top bracket but my battery just won't tip forward or budge in any direction.

Thank you!

 

[Peter Aawen]

Great, informative thread. Does the same procedure apply to a 2014 RT? I removed the rubber battery keeper, leads and the top bracket but my battery just won't tip forward or budge in any direction.

Thank you!

Your battery is fitted back into what's effectively a 'battery sized slot', so 'tilting' it won't work!! You need to pull it straight forward (towards the front of the Spyder) until it's bottom front edge is fairly flush with the lip at the bottom; then just lift the battery only enough to clear that bottom lip before you pull it forward & out. hyea: . You MIGHT be able to tilt it back a little at the top once you get it flush with the bottom lip, but don't count on it! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Gruntled]

Your battery is fitted back into what's effectively a 'battery sized slot', so 'tilting' it won't work!! You need to pull it straight forward (towards the front of the Spyder) until it's bottom front edge is fairly flush with the lip at the bottom; then just lift the battery only enough to clear that bottom lip before you pull it forward & out. hyea: . You MIGHT be able to tilt it back a little at the top once you get it flush with the bottom lip, but don't count on it! :lecturef_smilie:

Success!! The bottom edges of the battery were hanging up on the bodywork directly in front of them. Using vise grips on both terminals, I pulled straight out with all I had and the battery came out sideways. I measured the old battery against the new Yuasa I put in and it was about 5mm taller. The new battery slid right in easily. Tomorrow it's off the the hardware store for some star washers and all will be good.

Thank you again for your advice :2thumbs: