Bearing loose in rear hub

[Lamonster]

This is not good. I just checked my wheel bearings at 36,000+ miles and one of my bearings has spun in the hub. This should be a press fit. I've had this happen before on bikes and the fix is to take a punch and peen it so that the bearing has some meat to grab. It should be fine after that but if not I'll have to order a new hub.

 

[ataDude]

I would have expected the drive side would do that first. Strange. Do you think the bearing really is bad and you spun it because of that?

Axle?
.

 

[Lamonster]

Bearing feels fine. I've had enough bad bearings to know.:sour: I have no idea why it spun and why it was that side. Why do they use a locking nut on one side and not the other? Why do they use a locking nut at all?

 

[krb1945]

If you press it in...

if you press it and not beat it in with a shop hammer you might try putting blue locktite or blue permatex near the bottom of the seat. This simple fix should be effective and you don't have to peen the edge of anything.

Just a thought... do you think it might work?

 

[Firefly]

Is that your first set of bearings?

 

[John in PA]

Lamont, do you really think you can make up enough difference by peening to absorb that much slack? It seems REALLY loose from your video. I'm thinking the hub is shot, since it's alloy and the bearing shell is steel. Any peening is going to disappear as soon as the wheel is put into service (??)
Just don't want to see you lose the bearing halfway across the US

 

[NancysToy]

Lamont, do you really think you can make up enough difference by peening to absorb that much slack? It seems REALLY loose from your video. I'm thinking the hub is shot, since it's alloy and the bearing shell is steel. Any peening is going to disappear as soon as the wheel is put into service (??)
Just don't want to see you lose the bearing halfway across the US

:agree: that's a lot of slack...and you need to have the bearing centered. You may be better off measuring the slack with a feeler gauge, then using shim stock half that thickness, all around. That assumes the hub isn't so badly galled that no original surface remains, and also that you can get it true enough. You could turn it clean in a lathe, then check for what shim stock you need, or have a spacer bushing machined. Could do the same, to stock specs, after welding. New hub is probably easier. Glad you found this. Hate to have it annihilate itself on a road trip.
-Scotty

 

[Lamonster]

Lamont, do you really think you can make up enough difference by peening to absorb that much slack? It seems REALLY loose from your video. I'm thinking the hub is shot, since it's alloy and the bearing shell is steel. Any peening is going to disappear as soon as the wheel is put into service (??)
Just don't want to see you lose the bearing halfway across the US

I've been doing this kind of repair on wheels for the past 10 years. I would say 99% of them held the bearing just fine. It's a common problem on wheels that have been chromed. I'm sure a new hub is in order but for now I'm going to give this a shot.

 

[gazey]

Loctite 660 press fit repair

Go with the Loctite products Lamont.
Use Loctite 660 press fit repair. Its designed for these sort of repairs and will fill a gap up to 0.5mm (20 thou to you guys)

Good luck.
Gazey:spyder:

 

[Lamonster]

Go with the Loctite products Lamont.
Use Loctite 660 press fit repair. Its designed for these sort of repairs and will fill a gap up to 0.5mm (20 thou to you guys)

Good luck.
Gazey:spyder:

I use locktight along with the peening.

I have a new hub on order and it should be here next week.

 

[gazey]

What did they sting you for the new hub :yikes:

 

[Lamonster]

What did they sting you for the new hub :yikes:

REAR HUB
705500890 1 $95.99

But I got it covered.:doorag:

 

[Cajunborn]

Lamonster

How hard is it to take rear tire off. Also do you set the tension on the drive belt and if so do you have special tools to set tension. Reason I'm asking is when i change our rear tire I would need to re=tension drive belt.

Thanks in advance.
Cajunborn

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Hub issues

This is not good. I just checked my wheel bearings at 36,000+ miles and one of my bearings has spun in the hub. This should be a press fit. I've had this happen before on bikes and the fix is to take a punch and peen it so that the bearing has some meat to grab. It should be fine after that but if not I'll have to order a new hub.


YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

Why do you think this could happen with only 36K miles? The only thing I could think of is a locked bearing (you ruled that out) and the other is just poor design, poor material or poor assembly. I had a Yamaha Venture that I put almost 90K miles on and no bearing issues, let alone worn hubs.:dontknow:

 

[QuadManiac]

The question I have is for Lamonster and Scotty, and anyone else who has an understanding: why 3 bearings - 2 in hub and 1 in sprocket?

From my mech engineer days, 3 bearings on a single axis were always trouble - you can only get proper alignment with 2 - a 3rd, unless extremely good tolerances were met, would be odd man out and not seat correctly.

Is this a thing of the past with better than 0.0001" computer controlled machining tolerances or could this be the reason that Lamonster's bearing beat up counterbore in the hub?

 

[NancysToy]

The question I have is for Lamonster and Scotty, and anyone else who has an understanding: why 3 bearings - 2 in hub and 1 in sprocket?

From my mech engineer days, 3 bearings on a single axis were always trouble - you can only get proper alignment with 2 - a 3rd, unless extremely good tolerances were met, would be odd man out and not seat correctly.

Is this a thing of the past with better than 0.0001" computer controlled machining tolerances or could this be the reason that Lamonster's bearing beat up counterbore in the hub?

From an engineering standpoint, I would have to agree with you. Three bearings (in one casting) requires either extremely close tolerances, or can cause problems. My guess is that it is a load consideration, but remember that the bearings here are contained in two pieces that become an assembly. On motorcycles the bearings are usually hub mounted (at least on my small critters) and the sprocket assembly is rubber mounted or splined, with or without bearings of its own. I'm sure they need more sprocket support so added a third one there. The sprocket/wheel connection should allow enough play to not stress the bearings. Anyway, unusual failure unless a bearing seizes. There is obviously a reason to check bearings every 12K, as they have specified. None of us should overlook this important maintenance item.
-Scotty

 

[Lamonster]

Lamonster

How hard is it to take rear tire off. Also do you set the tension on the drive belt and if so do you have special tools to set tension. Reason I'm asking is when i change our rear tire I would need to re=tension drive belt.

Thanks in advance.
Cajunborn

Not hard at all. it's just like any beltdrive motorcycle.
Here's the tool I use. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5974

Why do you think this could happen with only 36K miles? The only thing I could think of is a locked bearing (you ruled that out) and the other is just poor design, poor material or poor assembly. I had a Yamaha Venture that I put almost 90K miles on and no bearing issues, let alone worn hubs.:dontknow:

I have no idea, I've never had one spin that wasn't bad or the hub had been damaged by chroming. I'm sure BRP will be looking into it.

The question I have is for Lamonster and Scotty, and anyone else who has an understanding: why 3 bearings - 2 in hub and 1 in sprocket?

From my mech engineer days, 3 bearings on a single axis were always trouble - you can only get proper alignment with 2 - a 3rd, unless extremely good tolerances were met, would be odd man out and not seat correctly.

Is this a thing of the past with better than 0.0001" computer controlled machining tolerances or could this be the reason that Lamonster's bearing beat up counterbore in the hub?

I'm not an engineer but my guess would be in order to have a cushdrive sprocket you would need to have a bearing on the sprocket. The sprocket on my Boss Hoss was bolted to the hub without a cushdrive.

 

[czdaryle]

I've been doing this kind of repair on wheels for the past 10 years. I would say 99% of them held the bearing just fine. It's a common problem on wheels that have been chromed. I'm sure a new hub is in order but for now I'm going to give this a shot.

I am having my rims chromed, are you saying this could happen easier once I have it chromed?

 

[Lamonster]

I am having my rims chromed, are you saying this could happen easier once I have it chromed?

Yes, depending on the chromer. The caustic cleaning will eat away at the race area and the bearing will become loose. A good chromer will make a plug for the bearing area.

 

[smokster]

From an engineering standpoint, I would have to agree with you. Three bearings (in one casting) requires either extremely close tolerances, or can cause problems. My guess is that it is a load consideration, but remember that the bearings here are contained in two pieces that become an assembly. On motorcycles the bearings are usually hub mounted (at least on my small critters) and the sprocket assembly is rubber mounted or splined, with or without bearings of its own. I'm sure they need more sprocket support so added a third one there. The sprocket/wheel connection should allow enough play to not stress the bearings. Anyway, unusual failure unless a bearing seizes. There is obviously a reason to check bearings every 12K, as they have specified. None of us should overlook this important maintenance item.
-Scotty

Since my back tire lasts about 15k, I have it checked then.
Curious though, if it happened before, what are the symtoms (ie, noise)?