Belt Adjustment video

[finless]

I just spotted this on Youtube. Sorry if it has been posted already.

I know that this is not the "approved" BRP way but he explains it pretty well.
Only thing I would add is the 3 reading in different places on the belt and average them.

One thing I find interesting is that many state to get the belt adjusted at the dealer then use the krikit and take a reading. But I have to ask why? Should they all read the same with the krikit?

Bob

 

[billybovine]

As the gates site clearly states, the krikit tool in is only accurate for measuring v-belts and micro v-belt with a max of 5 ribs and cannot be used for multi-toothed belts such as timing belts. So it cannot give a accurate reading of the type of belt used on our Spyder but is a cheap tool for doing a comparison.

 

[Lamonster]

As the gates site clearly states, the krikit tool in is only accurate for measuring v-belts and micro v-belt with a max of 5 ribs and cannot be used for multi-toothed belts such as timing belts. So it cannot give a accurate reading of the type of belt used on our Spyder but is a cheap tool for doing a comparison.

I've been using this tool since I had my Boss Hoss back in 2002 and it will give you a consistent and accurate reading every time. I like it better than the banjo string tuner.

 

[Chupaca]

Work well..!!

if you have a reference point (dealer adjusted reading) you can maintain your belt tension and tracking nicely with the krikit.. :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

.....One thing I find interesting is that many state to get the belt adjusted at the dealer then use the krikit and take a reading. But I have to ask why? Should they all read the same with the krikit?

Bob

The BRP gauge interprets the belt tension from the frequency of the sound made as it is plucked. It is used with the Spyder jacked up until the wheel hangs freely (lowest belt tension). The gauge reads in Newtons.

The Krikit reads directly, although the method of measurement isn't completely straight-forward. Most owners use it with the Spyder sitting on the ground Increased tension). The gauge reads in pounds (force).

Because of these differences there is no direct (or calculated) conversion. The readings are usually close, but comparing the Krikit to a reading obtained by the OEM procedure and tool is the only completely accurate way to determine what number to set your belt to. A Krikit reading will seldom match the value calculated from the sonic gauge reading. In short, they do not read the same.

 

[finless]

Not what I was asking. If have my belt adjusts at the dealer and then read it with the krikit an read say 160, then why would it be a different reding on a different syder? Seems to me the krikit would read the same on any spyder?

Bob

 

[NancysToy]

Not what I was asking. If have my belt adjusts at the dealer and then read it with the krikit an read say 160, then why would it be a different reding on a different syder? Seems to me the krikit would read the same on any spyder?

Bob

My experience with the Krikits is that they all read slightly differently on the same machine. How it reads on another Spyder depends a bit on the suspension settings if it is read with the suspension loaded. In either case, it will be close. Nevertheless, I will not recommend my preferred settings to anyone else...for warranty purposes if for no other reason. JMHO

 

[Water375]

Couple questions:

In that video, he doesn't seem to loosen the left axle nut... can you get away with just loosening the right side?

I assume one would need to take the cotter pin out to get a torque wrench on there.

If your belt alignment seems good, can you put 1/4 turn of more tension without going through the belt alignment procedure on the right side?

Thanks in advance

 

[kiwirs]

Couple questions:

In that video, he doesn't seem to loosen the left axle nut... can you get away with just loosening the right side?

I assume one would need to take the cotter pin out to get a torque wrench on there.

If your belt alignment seems good, can you put 1/4 turn of more tension without going through the belt alignment procedure on the right side?

Thanks in advance

The left hand axle nut is part of the axle I.e. pressed on. the reason is so that you can hold it with spanner or socket to stop the axle spinning in the same direction as the right one when undoing or tightening. My socket fitted over the cotter pin when I torqued it down but thing vary between setups

 

[KennW]

A question if I may ? In the video a range of between 160/180pounds was mentioned. I've heard that in year models 2013 plus the recommended tension has been increased. Is this so and if so what is the recommended range for the newer models??

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[Purple Guy]

Thanks for sharing the link! :thumbup:

 

[M109Dreamer]

A question if I may ? In the video a range of between 160/180pounds was mentioned. I've heard that in year models 2013 plus the recommended tension has been increased. Is this so and if so what is the recommended range for the newer models??

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Here is the spec for the tensions

 

[spacetiger]

450 +/- 150 N

300 N low side = 67 lbf

600 N high side = 135 lbf

I thought it was higher...

Great post, BTW

 

[BajaRon]

Not to nitpick. But it appears that he is jacking on the rear shock mount. Not a good idea.

If you do your adjustments with the engine running. Be very careful not to get anywhere near spinning parts. That rear wheel will suck you up between the rear fender and the tire in a hurry. Not to mention getting your hand in the spokes of the drive pulley. Don't be job security for your local ER!~ nojoke

 

[MikeinGA]

There is a lot of variables to getting the poundage of a drive belt.

1. The skill set of the person doing the testing.

2. The alignment of the front and rear sprocket and the alignment of the rear tire.

3. The condition of the belt. If the belt is old or new, If the belt is kept clean and lubed (I use belt dressing).

4. The placement of the tool in the midpoint of the belt. Half the distance between the center line of the sprockets.

There are different tools to test the drive belt setting. They all work. I just wonder why BRP keeps changing the number? That's IMHO.

Mike