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Big blue lift for can am ryker

Earp

New member
Before I became a member of the forum I saw a discussion (debate) on the best way to lift the Ryker for maintenance. I think the Big Blue lift is the way to go for the following reasons

1. It gets you off your hands and knees taking the strain off your back. You can remove wheels change oil etc. while standing (or sitting).
2 It gives you a clear view of the under side of the Ryker for maintenance.
3 No compressor required to lift or lower it just a drill.
4 Safety. I purchased one and to me it was money well spent.

If you like using a floor jack and jack stands for maintenance on the Ryker there is nothing wrong with that. I just think the Big Blue Lift is the right tool for the job.

Info on Big Blue can be found at lifts-and-stands.com
 

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Are you able to torque the wheel nuts to 250 ft lbs while its up on that lift? I would be afraid of it falling off while trying to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts.
 
Are you able to torque the wheel nuts to 250 ft lbs while its up on that lift? I would be afraid of it falling off while trying to loosen/tighten the wheel nuts.

Aren't the wheels going to turn while you try to tighten or loosen the nut. You do that on the ground, not on the lift.
 
For safety reasons you have three (3) choices when using the Big Blue Lift (or floor jack ) during Ryker wheel removal. 1) If you are using a breaker bar or OLD torque wrench loosen the wheel nuts (not remove) before lifting. 2) If you are using a impact wrench you can loosen the wheel nut and remove the wheel in the raised position. 3) My choice - Always use choice number one (1) regardless of tool used. On a side note: Never use your primary torque wrench as a breaker bar. It will ruin the calibration.
 

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Before the wheels can be removed they are locked in place (Slot on back of wheel) with a long allen key (wrench). This keeps the wheel from moving.
 

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Aren't the wheels going to turn while you try to tighten or loosen the nut. You do that on the ground, not on the lift.

As mentioned already, the Ryker wheel nuts need to be locked with a wrench in a slot to keep the wheels from moving when loosening/tighening the nuts. Even when sitting on the ground the wheels would spin if this is not done.
 
As mentioned already, the Ryker wheel nuts need to be locked with a wrench in a slot to keep the wheels from moving when loosening/tighening the nuts. Even when sitting on the ground the wheels would spin if this is not done.

Ah, learn something new everyday:thumbup:
 
Can you let me know where you purchased your lift? I checked this site (https://lifts-and-stands.com/product/motorcycle-lift-stand-eazyrizer-big-blue/) and they only had the the kit for the RT, I would like to get one for a F3.

Unfortunately there isn't an attachment for a F3. I talked to the rep here in Canada about getting one for my Big Blue (I have an RT but work on all Spyders out of my garage) and with the positioning of the rear shock they were not able to make an attachment that would work.
 
HiEarp I agree Big Blue is the best lift ,I'm getting one when I'm better and we can ride again regards nico75
 
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