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BLEED BRAKES
- Thread starter SPYD3R
- Start date
SPYD3R
Active member
BOOK
the BOOK says to change the brake fluid at 28,000 miles from what I'm told....
i have 45,000 miles of smiles on mine, so i guess i'm over-due... :lecturef_smilie:
dp
the BOOK says to change the brake fluid at 28,000 miles from what I'm told....
i have 45,000 miles of smiles on mine, so i guess i'm over-due... :lecturef_smilie:
dp
Motorcycledave
Active member
pegasus1300
Well-known member
My 2012 RT calls for a fluid change at 14,500 or 2 years which ever comes first. I had mine done at 14,500 and it was actually 4 years. The fluid looked really bad. I had it done by the dealer that time but will try it myself next time which will be this spring when the world warms back up. I am pushing 36,000 miles and it is coming up on 2 years. BTW I don't like the brakes on the 2012,they always feel mushy but I have had them bled twice with no change.
SPYD3R
Active member
yup
yup, i have a pressure (vacuum) bleeder, and have performed this function on many cars/trucks, but this is the 1st time on a SPYD3R.....
i've performed this function on a BMW, and the book specified to start at the left front wheel, and i was wondering if BRP did something strange on the sequence for bleeding....
yup, i have a pressure (vacuum) bleeder, and have performed this function on many cars/trucks, but this is the 1st time on a SPYD3R.....
i've performed this function on a BMW, and the book specified to start at the left front wheel, and i was wondering if BRP did something strange on the sequence for bleeding....
JayBros
Well-known member
My green manual says the bleeding sequence on my '14 RT-S is L caliper, R caliper, rear caliper. The manual also gives a manual bleeding procedure followed by a B.U.D.S. bleeding sequence. That bleeds the ABS system too through bleeding the VCM. My owner's manual says to change the brake fluid every 2 years.
youngers
New member
2012 !
yes , going to do mine this winter session , of no ride . went for a good run last month , noticed the brake was a bit more play than I like , so will do either brake pads change and bleed , or start with the bleed and see how they stop before the pads change ! { wonder if Santa could do a whip them into shape before he takes off from the package drop :thumbup: }
yes , going to do mine this winter session , of no ride . went for a good run last month , noticed the brake was a bit more play than I like , so will do either brake pads change and bleed , or start with the bleed and see how they stop before the pads change ! { wonder if Santa could do a whip them into shape before he takes off from the package drop :thumbup: }
SpyderConvert
Member
Brake Lines
Does anyone know if stainless steel-wrapped brake lines are available? Just curious.
Does anyone know if stainless steel-wrapped brake lines are available? Just curious.
SPYD3R
Active member
BUDS CODES
OK, here's the latest......
a member gave me a print-out of the manuals BRAKE SYSTEM...
To perform a COMPLETE BRAKE SYSTEM BLEED, the manual states to start with: 1. Left Front Caliper, 2. Right Front Caliper, 3. Rear Caliper & 4. VCM..... Question: what is a VCM...?
Then it states to: Connect to B.U.D.S. and log on... is it absolutely necessary to log on BUDS for the system to work properly....? Or can this be eliminated...? has anyone NOT logged onto BUDS with good results...?
I guess my 20 years away from this type of work, and all these electronics has left me in the dark...
Dan P
SPYD3R
OK, here's the latest......
a member gave me a print-out of the manuals BRAKE SYSTEM...
To perform a COMPLETE BRAKE SYSTEM BLEED, the manual states to start with: 1. Left Front Caliper, 2. Right Front Caliper, 3. Rear Caliper & 4. VCM..... Question: what is a VCM...?
Then it states to: Connect to B.U.D.S. and log on... is it absolutely necessary to log on BUDS for the system to work properly....? Or can this be eliminated...? has anyone NOT logged onto BUDS with good results...?
I guess my 20 years away from this type of work, and all these electronics has left me in the dark...
Dan P
SPYD3R
billybovine
Active member
Using Buds to bleed the VCM would be a more complete job, but skipping that part will only leave a small amount of old fluid in the system. I skipped that part.
Warning. Many folks have run into trouble by turning the ignition key on too soon. If you don't pump up the brake pedal until it is all the way up and firm before turning on the key. You will get a low pressure fault.
Warning. Many folks have run into trouble by turning the ignition key on too soon. If you don't pump up the brake pedal until it is all the way up and firm before turning on the key. You will get a low pressure fault.
SPYD3R
Active member
ahh-cool
Member
Mine were mushy also, when I had the front brake pads replaced they bled them and now it's hard.
I have to kep adding fluid a very couple of months. Maybe mushy is better
ahh-cool
Member
Yes, I replaced my master cylinder and the dealer told me that they had to bleed the brakes, because you can't do it without the buds system. I told him to go screw himself that I could do it myself.
I was wrong. I put a gallon and a half of fluid through the system and the best I could get is pumping the brakes to stop.
Over time it got better but was never good
AeroPilot
Member
Its one of those maintainance items I have my dealer do..
I have been pleased with the couple of times that the bike was in for other things and Fremont got them flushed and bled as well as the clutch fluid on the 2011 SM5. Just had them flush the brake fluid on the 15 RT last month and now with a new oil change it is ready for winter...after I wash and wax and maybe sneak in a ryde or two!!
I have been pleased with the couple of times that the bike was in for other things and Fremont got them flushed and bled as well as the clutch fluid on the 2011 SM5. Just had them flush the brake fluid on the 15 RT last month and now with a new oil change it is ready for winter...after I wash and wax and maybe sneak in a ryde or two!!
If you can't find any available you can always make your own. I always make my own for the vintage bikes I restore and I will make a set for my Spyder when the time comes. Not hard to do and I get my supplies here https://www.anplumbing.com/ It is a good idea to change the fluid every two years regardless of mileage because the fluid draws moisture whether the bike id being ridden or not. Moisture is the death of braking systems on bikes because of the corrosion it causes and it doesn't take long once the process has started.
SpyderConvert
Member
Thanks, Navydad!!
pegasus1300
Well-known member
No, I don't think mushy is better. I have had my brake pads replaced and the system bled twice by the dealer and been connected to the BUDS program and no real improvement. The last time, his comment was that the brakes felt pretty good to him. His explanation was that the brakes pedal activates something in the computer (sorry I don't remember what) which then tells the brakes how much pressure to apply which then stops your Spyder. Now remember this is just my recollection of his understanding as to why my brakes are mushy. I didn't question him further as I could see that we weren't communicating and I didn't think he knew any more.
JayBros
Well-known member
Mushy is never good in any hydraulic brake system; it's an indication of, at minimum, air in the line(s). I tried to find in my green manual the relationship of the VCM, Vehicle Control Module to the brakes but was not successful. The VCM interacts with all the other computer/sensor modules of the Spyder. I think what the tech was trying to convey to Paul was the relationship of the brake fluid pressure in the ABS to the speed of the vehicle and the three ABS wheel sensors (BRP calls the front ones Tone Wheels and the rear one a wheel sensor, go figure.) modulated by the ABS system in a panic stop.
