• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Bleeding/flushing brake fluid.

A

aka1004

Active member
So I’m about to take on my first bleeding of brake fluid on 15 RS.
From what I gathered so far I need one-man kit or vacuum canister to do it by myself.
I’m leaning toward one-man kit bottle with one way valve so I can attach the hose to bleeding nipple and pump the brake pedal without help.

Q1: do I need to bleed in certain sequence?
Q2: is rear reservoir for front and front reservoir for rear?
Q3: do I keep filling reservoir as I’m pumping the brake till new fluid starts to come out?
Q4: do front wheels need to be off?

Thank you I’m advance.
 
Q1: LF, RF, Rear
Q2: Don't remember, simply open both reservoirs when bleeding LF and see.
Q3: Yes, that is unless you want to risk introducing air into the system -- Monday humor!
Q4: Don't know; am not familiar with '15 RS calipers.

Remember, without B.U.D.S. you won't be able to trigger the ABS module to flush it but the amount of fluid in it is small.
 
This is from the service manual: As Jaybros said you do not need buds to finish job. A little will be left in the system. DO NOT TURN ON KEY DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS.

To avoid serious damage to the brake system:
– Use only DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed
container.
– Use only a clean funnel when filling brake
fluid reservoir.
– Do not use brake fluid taken from old or
already opened containers.
– Do not mix different fluids for topping off.
General Guidelines
This procedure is divided in multiple tasks that
must be completed in a specific order according
to the following table.
STEP TASK
1 Perform manual bleeding procedure (left
caliper, right caliper, rear caliper and VCM)
2 Perform B.U.D.S. bleeding procedure (front
circuit and rear circuit)
3 Validate the system pressure
 
I hear speed bleeders are the cats a#$! Install, loosen, put a hose on the bleeder and pump into a bottle or pan!! When done close the bleeder and go to the next wheel! Just keep the res full while pumping!!:dontknow: I haven't done it myself yet, but I have a set on the bench waiting to install!
 
aka1004 said:
So I’m about to take on my first bleeding of brake fluid on 15 RS.
From what I gathered so far I need one-man kit or vacuum canister to do it by myself.
I’m leaning toward one-man kit bottle with one way valve so I can attach the hose to bleeding nipple and pump the brake pedal without help.

Q1: do I need to bleed in certain sequence?
Q2: is rear reservoir for front and front reservoir for rear?
Q3: do I keep filling reservoir as I’m pumping the brake till new fluid starts to come out?
Q4: do front wheels need to be off?

Thank you I’m advance.
Click to expand...

1. Always bleed the farthest wheel first, so probably left side front.
2. Yes
3. Fill it when it gets low, or siphon out some fluid first and fill up with fresh, so you dont pump as much old fluid out.
4. Helps and they are not hard to take off.

The problems with the one man kits is that once you crack the nipples, you can suck air back in as you release the pedal. The valve is after the threads so it doesnt do much.

The vacuum kits work by trying to suction out the fluid. I tried one of the bottle kits that was supposed to be hooked to a compressor to create suction, it sucked all right but not fluid. There are also the hand pump mityvac style bleeders, I cant say how well those work, maybe somebody else can chime in.

The most reliable way is a clear tube on the nipple and somebody to push down on the pedal and hold it till you say release. You open the nipple when there is pressure and close it off before the pedal comes up. On the fronts is pretty fast and easy to do. On the rear, much more of a pia in how you get to the nipple, at least on my RT. Maybe your RS is easier, on the RT the caliper is under the storage compartment.

There are also replacement nipples that have the check valve built in, I havent tried those, have heard pros and cons.

As for the ABS, yes you are supposed to use BUDS, but without you still are moving out most of the fluid. If you are just cycling out old fluid for new, probably not a big issue. If you have air in the system and the pedal is still spongy afterward, then you may need to bring it in.
 
I've used Speedbleeders and tried a Mityvac.

The Speedbleeders just flat out work, the Mityvac, not so much. The problem with the Mityvac is you'll suck air past the threads
in the bleeders. If you pull all the bleeders, seal the threads, and then bleed the system, the Mityvac works very well. But that is
a lot of work for not a lot of benefit. Especially when Speedbleeders make the bleeding process all but painless.

No, I don't sell them, or work for them, but have used them and they are high on my "Most Bang for the Buck" list. :)
 
Thank you for the inputs.
I’ve been looking at bottle with one way valve so I can insert the hose, open and pump without needing help but hose below with one way valve may be the solution.
Speed bleeder pretty much utilizes same idea, one way valve and it’s a permanent fix.
What size do I need for spyder RS? There were many different models.
 

Attachments

  • 03E1A97A-915B-4755-AD6F-5F409E3CDAFE.jpg
    03E1A97A-915B-4755-AD6F-5F409E3CDAFE.jpg
    26.6 KB · Views: 71
Thank you.
So with speed bleeder in place, end of the hose doesn’t have to be submerged in fluid? To prevent air from sipping in?
 
Speedbleeders

aka1004 said:
Thank you.
So with speed bleeder in place, end of the hose doesn’t have to be submerged in fluid? To prevent air from sipping in?
Click to expand...

That's the JOY of speedbleeders. The hose DOESN'T need to be submerged at all.
They make brake bleeding just TOO EASY.

I draw out the old fluid in the res and fill and pump. New fluid comes out quick---- close the speedbleeder and move on to the next wheel. Easy Peasy.

Lew L
 
I have a brake bleeder made from a surplus lab hand vacuum pump and a couple of catch bottles set up to prevent brake fluid from being sucked into the vacuum pump. Works real well to pull the brake fluid into the lines without a lot of air bubbles. I have used it on the bikes, but works well on other vehicles too, and didn't cost near what a store bought brake vacuum pump sells for. Mine will hold a half gallon of brake fluid, or whatever else you might be extracting. I have used it to remove oil from over filled engines using a tube down the dipstick hole. Doesn't matter what you pull with it. The product you are moving never goes into the vacuum pump. It is caught in a clear glass jug with measurement marks on the side.
 
I managed for over 60yrs without Speedbleeders.
Installed them last year and don't know how I managed without them. So easy now.
 
Brakes

:coffee: Lots of good advice on brake bleeding. My tip: Careful about getting the fluid on your Spyder. It will damage your Ryde. .......:thumbup:
 
With Speed Bleeders, the ONLY other equipment you need is a wrench to open them. And you do that only once.
 
Yes, Unopened container is best as brake fluid will absorb water from the air. Not good on your hands or paint.
 
I have used a vacuum generator. Works with my air compressor. Works really well. Be careful not to drain the reservoir.

Have used Speed Bleeders as well. Great product.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
What is involved with 'Validating the Low Pressure Switch' when doing a Brake Fluid Change? Does it need BUDS?
Replies
3
Views
244
Poasttown
P
C
Brake failure message and no fluid from ABS and the rear caliper, any ideas?
Replies
7
Views
377
Little Blue
Little Blue
R
Brake fluid in Reservoir & above the seal - anyone else seen this?
Replies
12
Views
1K
BajaRon
BajaRon
Wmoater
Dreaded parking brake locked and clicks only!
Replies
6
Views
1K
FrogmanDave
FrogmanDave
MakoShark2
How much work is involved in replacing the brake switch?
Replies
8
Views
379
RayBJ
RayBJ
Back
Top