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Brake pads gone in 3000 miles!

bluestratos

New member
Last spring I bought EBC brake pads for my RT and changed them out. The stock ones had 17000 miles and still had about 1/3 left but I wanted to try the EBC pads to see if this improved the lousy braking my RT has. They did help slightly so I changed the fronts about 1 month ago. 2 weeks ago I started getting ABS Orange screen (3 times over 2 days) but after each restart it went away. After I got home from the oyster run (it was pouring for about 15 miles) I discovered my parking brake was not working. I guessed the cable was off even though I had never had this problem (I have had dozens of other problems mind you, lol). I pulled the panels off and sure enough the cable was off.

I reattached it and did a test but the parking brake did not work! So I check back a the rear caliper and discovered that the pads were not clamping on the disc when the parking motor did its thing. I looked closer and was shocked to see the brake pads where worn almost to the backing! I pulled them and sure enough they were as thin as paper. I have no idea why the brakes wore so quickly, I never ride them and while I am an aggressive rider at times I could not have worn this much off. I bough stock replacements today and I will install then reset the parking break. The mechanic at my dealer ship said its possible I have absorbed moisture in the brake fluid which will apply the brake?

They want $200 + parts to bleed the breaks so I am inclined to do so my self. I know you need BUDS to do it by the book but some one had done a work around but I cannot find the post now... groan....Any help would be greatly appreciated :-).
 
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Last spring I bought EBC brake pads for my RT and changed them out. The stock ones had 17000 miles and still had about 1/3 left but I wanted to try the EBC pads to see if this improved the lousy braking my RT has. They did help slightly so I changed the fronts about 1 month ago. 2 weeks ago I started getting ABS Orange screen (3 times over 2 days) but after each restart it went away. After I got home from the oyster run (it was pouring for about 15 miles) I discovered my parking brake was not working. I guessed the cable was off even though I had never had this problem (I have had dozens of other problems mind you, lol). I pulled the panels off and sure enough the cable was off.

I reattached it and did a test but the parking brake did not work! So I check back a the rear caliper and discovered that the pads were not clamping on the disc when the parking motor did its thing. I looked closer and was shocked to see the brake pads where worn almost to the backing! I pulled them and sure enough they were as thin as paper. I have no idea why the brakes wore so quickly, I never ride them and while I am an aggressive rider at times I could not have worn this much off. I bough stock replacements today and I will install then reset the parking break. The mechanic at my dealer ship said its possible I have absorbed moisture in the brake fluid which will apply the brake?

They want $200 + parts to bleed the breaks so I am inclined to do so my self. I know you need BUDS to do it by the book but some one had done a work around but I cannot find the post now... groan....Any help would be greatly appreciated :-).

you do not need buds to do this. I would talk to another mechanic :chat:
 
Which EBC pads did you use? The ones originally introduced were organic and wear fast. The semi-sintered ones Ron sells should do better. Brakes are a bit of a trade-off, for the same size brake a softer pad often performs better (unless it is prone to fade) but it wears faster. Be sure that you lubricate the pins and caliper o-rings when servicing the brakes...failure to do so can wear the pads oddly or quickly. The replacement thickness on pads is 1 mm, slightly thinner than a new dime, just for reference. Hope you find some answers.
 
The pads I used were from Baja Ron and I used a piston compressor to push the piston back. That being said, I understand that as long as you get the calipers back on the piston floats when not being applied.

I installed the new pads last night (BRP) and went about putting the cable back on to the pulley in the front when I discovered that the micro switch arm was bent backwards. I guess when the cable fell off it allowed the pulley motor to make a full revolution, then when it came back it caught and did the damage. I removed the switch arm and put it back into shape and reinstalled. That is when I discovered that the tab on the pulley that activates the switch was also damaged. So I repaired it with JB metal and now waiting for it to fully cure. It looks like the motor runs until it feels resistance or until it shuts it self off which caused the damage.

I did bleed the back brake and kept refilling until I got clean fluid running through as the old fluid was very dark. The break pedal is really firm now so there must have been air in the line as well...

Well this makes about 20 issues in 21K.. averaging a problem once every K... hmmmmm.. can you say "lemon"? lol
 
The replacement thickness on pads is 1 mm, slightly thinner than a new dime, just for reference. Hope you find some answers.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I noticed my brake pads looked like they were worn down. I was getting ready to pull them to see if I needed new pads.
You saved me some work. I will compare the pads tomorrow hopefully without removing them.
BTW what is the thickness of a new set of pads?
Is the 1mm the same for front and rear?
Again, thank you
Stefan
 
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