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Cruise Control Replacement

C3517C

Member
I was having trouble with my cruise control on my 2011 RT-S, and it was getting worse and worse. It would not engage into cruise mode, or would only hold it there a few seconds and click off. After some discussion on another thread, it was pretty clear the problem was in the multi switch cluster which houses the cruise switch. I took it off, and took it apart. This piece is really not meant to be taken apart and fixed, it should be replaced. The white touch pad shown here is what your buttons on the outside are pushing. Specifically, the little white nubs. As you can see, my cruise nub was 99% torn off and was also worn down. Once these nubs wear with time and use, the cluster will need to be replaced.
Replacing the cluster on the handlebar is pretty simple, although it does cost 312.99 plus tax. The hard part is locating the end of the wiring harness on the Spyder. Once the wires from the cluster go through the right handlebar, they combine with all the other wires from the handlebars and dash and head into the dark abyss. Shaking and pulling the wire to see where it moves on the other end won't work here, as they are tightly bound together in more than one place before they reach their destination on the bike.
The dealership let me have a look at a Spyder they had in the shop that was had every panel and dash removed, and even then it was unclear where the harness end was. We eventually found it on the right front, near the coolant bottle. That RT, however, was a different year than mine. I ultimately found mine on the left side (of Course). If you look at the pic of the left side, you can see a pair of needle nose plies in the center, which are pointing at the harness end.
The replacement is now complete, and the new cluster and cruise control works great.
 

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Yep. I looked at the wiring diagrams and took mt 2010 RT to the dealer to do my right cluster replacement. It took them an entire day. You are 100% right.
 
Odd that that exact same part for the F3 is $219 list. The only apparent difference is the connector on the end. I just bought one. Fortunately the F3 is also much easier to install as the wire loom does not go inside the handlebar.
 
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