Drill, electric screwdriver or manual?

[Wmoater]

What do you use to remove all you plastic, install accessories, general maintenance? (Garage use only) I remove my plastic with drill and a snap on long and short torx socket bit. I use a torx screwdriver to start and screw in all plastic to not strip out. Anyone use an electric screwdriver/wrench? If so which one? Mikita, Milwaukee, black and decker, dewalt? I’d still manually start then zip in with electric screwdriver. A good light weight electric screwdriver might be nice to get in tight spots and finish up. I like tools:roflblack:

 

[Possible]

If I need any electric tools, they're Dewalt.

 

[Woodaddict]

i use what looks like a screwdriver, with hex magnetic end to hold different short torx tips. very fast without any possible stripping

 

[2dogs]

Worx. It's a multi-function tool. The darn battery just seems to last forever even sitting in a cold garage. I'm overly pleased with it. https://www.worx.com/switchdriver-20v-cordless-drill-driver-wx176l-tool-only.html

Keep the torque adjusted toward the low side during installation, then hand-tighten screws. You can speed it up when removing screws.

 

[Bfromla]

Manual here, wouldn’t mind electric screwdriver, think drill could be too much speed & torque:dontknow: Have only accessed other panels with screws couple times, so no problems
The annoying one is splash guard above rear tire :gaah: & definitely ez to cross thread :lecturef_smilie:, limited room for tool. Complicated with the generous thread lock BRP applies to most every bolt/nut (one or other, not both):sour: (little drop goes long way)

 

[askitee]

Ryobi 3/8 chuck battery powered drill it has adjustable torque settings so that I can fit bits quickly and set the torque accordingly

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Ryobi 3/8 chuck battery powered drill it has adjustable torque settings so that I can fit bits quickly and set the torque accordingly

:agree: .... When I was doing a lot of RT mirror magnet installs .... I bought a Ryobi 18v . screwdriver ..... it was easy to control, slow but with good Torx .... for larger really tight bolts or screws I manually turned the screw-driver ( it's locked when not being juiced ) a half-turn, then just pressed the button. ..... I have a lot of Ryobi tools and have been happy with them, all Battery tools have BRAND specific Batteries ( & chargers ) so sticking with one brand makes a lot of sense to me ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[pegasus1300]

I use a craftsman cordless screwdriver with a magnetic head to hold the torx bits. I also have an extender that fits the head and holds the bits. I really like it. I start the screws by hand then finish with the craftsman. Gets them tight but not enough to strip. I also have a Black and Decker cordless screwdriver.

 

[Gwolf]

Short handle ratchet with a torx bit. I would not use any power tools on plastic parts.

 

[Snoking1127]

I use a little single cell cordless lithium palm hand driver. It does not have enough power to strip things. I wish is was still made. I got it at Costco years ago and it still has the original battery. It is faster than a similar Black and Decker that I have. https://www.amazon.com/Durofix-RV33...018S09U5O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Something like this would great.

 

[mcalva]

I used electric screwdriver on my 2011 RT but now on my F3 there are a lot less screws to normally work on. So now, I alternate between manual or electric depending on the wheater.

 

[JayBros]

Manual 1/4 or 3/8 drive ratchet and extensions as necessary.

 

[troop]

I use my Walmart Hyper Tough $12 cordless screw driver for light stuff, along with Hyper Tough $4.88 bit set . I wouldn't use my 20v DeWalt drill for that

 

[Steve W.]

I tend to use what's in my shop. At the time, it's a Ridgid 18v impact driver that came as part of a set. I also use some 2" Torx bits and some 6" Torx bits.

Panels have been on and off multiple times, have not had any problem stripping any out. The trick there is to avoid going full blast when starting a screw. In fact, depending on the speed range selected, I probably won't go full blast, anyway.

.

 

[Wmoater]

I have plenty of variety 18V and 20V drills, hammer drills, torque and impact guns- corded, cordless and Pneumatic. Tools are not a concern as in I have 2 chest full of snap-on and mixed variety for everything needed to rip a car, tractor or anything else heavy duty apart. I’m looking for something small and compact to get into tight places if needed like the torx under the headlights for example or in the back for example when needing to remove torx for sway bar or remove frunk. Something easy to slide in back pocket even when taking side saddle bag torx or even the trunk top access and the deflector torx etc. (More for plastic) I also have no problem using my 1/4 drive sockets like in the past just looking for some convenience for mini power. I understand torque values so oil plugs for example you don’t use this tool. A socket and 1/4 turn snug is the correct way. I’m not a fan of putting the torx screws back in plastic with a drill even if they are variable speed. My dewalt and Milwaukee cordless and impacts are just a bit to heavy and are bulky. If others are using these mini screwdriver I fell better using it. That’s why I asked. I’ve narrowed it down to the cordless dewalt GYROSCOPIC screwdriver and the Milwaukee M4 cordless screwdriver. The battery brand doesn’t matter in this situation for both use a specific battery not common to drills. The gyroscopic you rotate to create variable speed where the Milwaukee you rock a button but 2 set speeds. Both I can put a 1/4 drive socket bit in and then use my standard 1/4 drive snapon torx. Both are pretty slow so I won’t be affraid to strip, crack or snap anything. Both have variable torque setting too. Never used a gyroscopic. Any comments on these two?

 

[MONK]

1" drive industrial impact gun (corded....more power that way)! WHOO HOO!

Just kidding. After cross threading more than (1) bolt trying to use anything electric, I've reverted to a regular screwdriver and/or socket. Haven't had one strip out or cross thread since. I also start 99% by hand. It takes longer but that's just more time I get to spend with my ride.

 

[RayBJ]

I use a Ryobi 4.5v screw-gun. It has a clutch and 2 speeds and is light & small. Works very well on the plastics and I use the 18v for heavier bolts.

 

[canamjhb]

I have a couple power drivers but tend to use hand tools. I don't trust myself to correctly install fasteners using power. I like the feel of doing it manually. Slow, easy, correctly. Besides, I can always use a little exercise..... Jim

 

[Possible]

I've lots of power tools, but always start a nut, bolt, screw by hand, and only use a power tool after it's well started. Unless
it's a self-drilling screw.

 

[BertRemington]

I've almost finished converting all Torx fasteners (and hex head bolts) to flanged button-head socket stainless steel. This let's me use the same tools as the MG (mostly T-handle with ball end) and stainless is easier to see in the shadows. Plus hex socket (Allen) is more common if you breakdown on the side of the road. Although AAA is my preferred solution.