After my wife saw an alert on Facebook about F3 coolant tank explosions I checked hers and, sure enough, the leaking tank seam had left lots of dried, orange coolant on the mounting flange.
It’s a 2020 with 39,000 miles.
1. Make sure to have a helper handy to remove the right hand side panel, the grille, the grille surround, and the cover over the R/h shock top mount. (This lady sang opera leading roles, teaches voice, plays keyboard in church, and is the creative director and conductor for a large choir and orchestra. She also loves to work on her Spyder…)
2. Pump out the contents of the coolant tank.
3. Cut (and later replace) two cable ties:
- one at the top of the tank, on the frame side of the tank
- one at the top of the shock mount. See marked photos. Slip the cables off the top of the semi-circular cable holder and make sure they are loose around the body of the tank.
4. Remove the overflow (pointing to the rear) hose from the filler neck of the tank, and slide it out of the retainer on the side of the tank. Remove the crimp type hose clamp on the coolant return line (on the side of the filler neck) and remove the hose. You can use a regular 5/8” screw type clamp when refitting the hose.
5. Remove two push pins on the flange of the coolant tank. You might need a long handled screw driver to prise up the centre pin of the inner one (closer to the centre of the bike).
6. Place a large drain pan under this area to catch coolant. Undo the screw hose clamp on the engine side of the large hose from the bottom of the coolant tank. Slide this end of the hose from the spigot of the water pump housing. (It’s easier to do this if the push pins are removed first.)
7. Rotate the coolant tank slightly so that the flanges clear their mounting plate and tilt the top away from you towards the centre of the bike. At the same time, with your left hand press against the larger coolant house closer to the centre of the bike, to help make enough space for the coolant tank to slide past.
8. Remove the crimp type hose clamp from hose on bottom of coolant tank. I used another screw type clamp, the same as the one on the other end. Item no. 85 (not 82, that is a crimp one) on the parts diagram.
9. After replacing the tank and reconnecting the hose to the water pump, refit the push pins to hold the tank in place. It is easier to use a push pin tool to press the inner one in place. Refit and clamp the two upper hoses to the tank filler neck.
10. Top up the coolant to the lower mark. As soon as you start the engine the pump will pull the coolant through that drained away from the pump. Top up again.
11. Refit cable ties.
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It’s a 2020 with 39,000 miles.
1. Make sure to have a helper handy to remove the right hand side panel, the grille, the grille surround, and the cover over the R/h shock top mount. (This lady sang opera leading roles, teaches voice, plays keyboard in church, and is the creative director and conductor for a large choir and orchestra. She also loves to work on her Spyder…)
2. Pump out the contents of the coolant tank.
3. Cut (and later replace) two cable ties:
- one at the top of the tank, on the frame side of the tank
- one at the top of the shock mount. See marked photos. Slip the cables off the top of the semi-circular cable holder and make sure they are loose around the body of the tank.
4. Remove the overflow (pointing to the rear) hose from the filler neck of the tank, and slide it out of the retainer on the side of the tank. Remove the crimp type hose clamp on the coolant return line (on the side of the filler neck) and remove the hose. You can use a regular 5/8” screw type clamp when refitting the hose.
5. Remove two push pins on the flange of the coolant tank. You might need a long handled screw driver to prise up the centre pin of the inner one (closer to the centre of the bike).
6. Place a large drain pan under this area to catch coolant. Undo the screw hose clamp on the engine side of the large hose from the bottom of the coolant tank. Slide this end of the hose from the spigot of the water pump housing. (It’s easier to do this if the push pins are removed first.)
7. Rotate the coolant tank slightly so that the flanges clear their mounting plate and tilt the top away from you towards the centre of the bike. At the same time, with your left hand press against the larger coolant house closer to the centre of the bike, to help make enough space for the coolant tank to slide past.
8. Remove the crimp type hose clamp from hose on bottom of coolant tank. I used another screw type clamp, the same as the one on the other end. Item no. 85 (not 82, that is a crimp one) on the parts diagram.
9. After replacing the tank and reconnecting the hose to the water pump, refit the push pins to hold the tank in place. It is easier to use a push pin tool to press the inner one in place. Refit and clamp the two upper hoses to the tank filler neck.
10. Top up the coolant to the lower mark. As soon as you start the engine the pump will pull the coolant through that drained away from the pump. Top up again.
11. Refit cable ties.
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