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First oil change and Grip Puppy install....

Firefly

Active member
Well, had around 800 miles on my new RT... so it was time to do the first oil change. Took my time and things went well... but they sure want you to take a lot of panels off to do it.

I didn't take the upper one off that requires removing the mirror.... I mean really-- remove a MIRROR to change the oil--- I don't think so!

Took about an hour... and as you can see from the metal shavings........ an early oil change is a good idea!

Also installed some Grip Puppies I had laying around. Little tricky getting them over the end of the stock grip.. but some soapy water and a screwdriver did the trick. Had to trim about 1/4" off them before install for a good fit. They feel great and look good.

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Grip Puppies lubricant................

Firefly, sorry you had to lather up the "pups". Reggy taught me at SpyderFest to use Hand Sanitizer. I lubricates and the alcohol evaporates in just a few minutes. Worked perfectly for me. Congrats on the beautiful ryde. Sorry you had to go through all the pain to get there.
 
Oh-- and the one thing (other than all the tupperware removal) that drove me batty was that annoying high-pitched whine from the RT... something to do with the throttle bodies I believe I read... it whines for hours it seems.. and anytime you turn it back on (which is often during maintenance) - the whine comes back.

What the heck is it??
 
Oh-- and the one thing (other than all the tupperware removal) that drove me batty was that annoying high-pitched whine from the RT... something to do with the throttle bodies I believe I read... it whines for hours it seems.. and anytime you turn it back on (which is often during maintenance) - the whine comes back.

What the heck is it??

Don't recall what causes it specifically. Just remember reading that it's normal and excepted it.
 
Oh-- and the one thing (other than all the tupperware removal) that drove me batty was that annoying high-pitched whine from the RT... something to do with the throttle bodies I believe I read... it whines for hours it seems.. and anytime you turn it back on (which is often during maintenance) - the whine comes back.

What the heck is it??
It is the ECM holding the throttle plate shut for 40 minutes to avoid the hot restart problem the 2010s had. Once you get deaf enough, you don't even hear it.
 
It is the ECM holding the throttle plate shut for 40 minutes to avoid the hot restart problem the 2010s had. Once you get deaf enough, you don't even hear it.

It appears that any time you turn power back on to the Spyder (even without starting it) - it goes into that mode??

Guess I'll have to use the same technology I use to get rid of the RT belt squeal..... turn up the radio!!
 
According to one of the BRP techs I spoke to at Spyderfest, the problem with the throttlebodies that had to be replaced were from folks who were turning their key on/off several times in quick succession. (trying to clear the computer perhaps?) The updated software is supposed to prevent the throttlebodies from failing if this is done.
 
Learn something every day

I thought that whine was something to do with the headlights. Not that it matters, I guess, but good to know. It drives our two cats nuts. They leave the garage area immediately.

I've had good success installing the grip puppies with hair spray. I use those on my Goldwing and FZ1, as well as the Spyder. I'll try the hand sanitizer so that maybe I don't have to smell like Final Net for a week when I ride.

I'm getting the stuff together for the second oil change. I remember having to remove the left mirror. So, you didn't have to do that? That would be great. Im' not sure how many times that thing can take being popped off and back on.
 
I thought that whine was something to do with the headlights. Not that it matters, I guess, but good to know. It drives our two cats nuts. They leave the garage area immediately.

I've had good success installing the grip puppies with hair spray. I use those on my Goldwing and FZ1, as well as the Spyder. I'll try the hand sanitizer so that maybe I don't have to smell like Final Net for a week when I ride.

I'm getting the stuff together for the second oil change. I remember having to remove the left mirror. So, you didn't have to do that? That would be great. Im' not sure how many times that thing can take being popped off and back on.

I just pried that panel forward enough and used a small torx flat wrench (craftsman) to get to the torx behind and loosen the side body panel. To be honest I'm not sure that one even needs to come off--- if you can just get the lowest black panel off... the one held on by 4 bolts going into the foot brackets... I think you could get to the rest for the oil change from underneath... I'll try it next time (like next week..... )....
 
I'll let you know how it goes after this weekend. I'm going to take the minimalist approach and see how little I can remove to get the job done. I've got a little trick that I'm going to try that I learned from my Harley days. I want to try to catch the oil before it runs all over the bottom frame, etc. That hole is too small.
I have an old butchered 1 liter bottle that I used to insert between the oil filter and front motor mount on a Harley. It worked like a charm. It looks like it might work for this as well.

I would try to vacuum the oil out with a Mity Vac but I don't know.:banghead:
 
OIL change

When i changed my oil I didn't have to take the mirrow off.just side panels(2Ithink) go to Lamont's tips to change oil I did it his way an took me 30mins:ohyea: good luck Pete PS before you pull the drain plug take a piece of 1 inch clear plastic tubing an put it over the boss that holds the plug
 
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I'll let you know how it goes after this weekend. I'm going to take the minimalist approach and see how little I can remove to get the job done. I've got a little trick that I'm going to try that I learned from my Harley days. I want to try to catch the oil before it runs all over the bottom frame, etc. That hole is too small.
I have an old butchered 1 liter bottle that I used to insert between the oil filter and front motor mount on a Harley. It worked like a charm. It looks like it might work for this as well.

I would try to vacuum the oil out with a Mity Vac but I don't know.:banghead:

Lots of folks are removing that lower panel, and leaving it off. Something to think about.
 
Well, had around 800 miles on my new RT... so it was time to do the first oil change. Took my time and things went well... but they sure want you to take a lot of panels off to do it.

I didn't take the upper one off that requires removing the mirror.... I mean really-- remove a MIRROR to change the oil--- I don't think so!

Took about an hour... and as you can see from the metal shavings........ an early oil change is a good idea!

Also installed some Grip Puppies I had laying around. Little tricky getting them over the end of the stock grip.. but some soapy water and a screwdriver did the trick. Had to trim about 1/4" off them before install for a good fit. They feel great and look good.

View attachment 49003View attachment 49004View attachment 49005View attachment 49006

Thanks for the post showing you don't have to remove the mirror! I have heard too many posts about tabs being broken when the mirror is removed. :thumbup:

I only have about 150 miles on my new RT, working out of state too much, but hope to put some real miles on it this weekend. I think I'll go ahead and change my own oil as I did my GS. That looks like an unusual amount of metal on the drain plug! :yikes: That is more than the total amount I saw in all of my oil changes on the GS.

I have been using soap to put on my Grip puppies and have it down to under a minute each. I use a Phillips screw driver so I don't gouge the stock grip with the sharp corner of the flat blade.

My neak hurts now from look at the photos upside down. Hope it's not just my computer :dontknow:
 
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