rjinaz86323
Active member
Has anyone had to have their parking brake motor replaced? If so what was the cost of parts and labor. Thx
They replaced the left handlebar switch, the parking brake motor, a new connector, and a new battery. This was all done after the recall, which was the main thing I took it in for.So, what did they do to it? And good luck it sounds like the wife has your next month booked!!! Enjoy, be safe!
I believe you have a legitimate complaint! The brake caliper has to be removed when changing the rear tire. If the caliper isn't handled with care while removal and replacement, the brake cable can be subject to damage.Can I ask a question? 2018 F3S. Took it to the shop for the $1800 recall, oil change, and three new tires. No other issues or problems. The dealer test drove it all fine. I get on it and release the emergency brake and the light starts flashing. Turns out the motor conveniently "locked up" at the same time I tried to drive away. The dealer says it's just a coincidence... I'm thinking they had to temporarily remove the brake cable to do either the rear tire or the recall stuff. I'm also thinking they over-torqued the brake cable causing the motor to lock up after the third time use. Is it just bad luck, or am I right that they had to mess with the cable during repairs?
I believe you have a legitimate complaint! The brake caliper has to be removed when changing the rear tire. If the caliper isn't handled with care while removal and replacement, the brake cable can be subject to damage.
Hey D. Well, I guess I'm going to have to be on the other side of the aisle on this, as much as I’d love to blame a ham-fisted tech at a dealership, this probably isn't the case.Can I ask a question? 2018 F3S. Took it to the shop for the $1800 recall, oil change, and three new tires. No other issues or problems. The dealer test drove it all fine. I get on it and release the emergency brake and the light starts flashing. Turns out the motor conveniently "locked up" at the same time I tried to drive away. The dealer says it's just a coincidence... I'm thinking they had to temporarily remove the brake cable to do either the rear tire or the recall stuff. I'm also thinking they over-torqued the brake cable causing the motor to lock up after the third time use. Is it just bad luck, or am I right that they had to mess with the cable during repairs?
Thanks Bill, appreciate it. I’m sure you know your way around a Spyder pretty well, also.Doug, You know the way these things work better than I, we always trust your judgement on any issues.
We do all of our own tire replacement in our little shop, and take special care when handling the the calipers, cables, and brake lines. We've changed out 6 rear and 8 fronts so far, and all has gone well with no problems.
Keep on helping everyone on this forum because we all appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks
Bill
Hey buddy, thanks for the feedback. the actual culprit of the emergency braking system was the battery connection. I resolved the issue by using locktite on the screws and absolutely never had the issue again!! and it's worked perfectly for the past 5 years. But the dealer is giving me a break on the repair.. normally about $670 and dropping it to $470. I did look up a you tube video on removal of the back tire and they do need to un-bolt the cable but do not really need to touch the assembly, merely bolt it back on.. Thanks again!!! Haven't been on here for ever and couldn't remember the name of the site. but as always, it's helpful!!Hey D. Well, I guess I'm going to have to be on the other side of the aisle on this, as much as I’d love to blame a ham-fisted tech at a dealership, this probably isn't the case.
To begin with, you've been having this intermittent parking brake disengage issue since 2019. (went back through your old posts) that appears to have been mis-diagnosed by someone as a battery issue. This is covered by the warranty campaign that affects your machine. Too bad you didn't get it resolved then for no charge. Why? You have the EXACT symptoms.
Big picture, there is NO need to remove the parking brake cable to replace a tire, just remove the two caliper bolts and remove the entire caliper. There is nothing to "over-torque" on the parking brake cable. Those two nuts at the rear caliper are simply cable adjusters. They play no role in any friction on the cable, and the two caliper bolts have no affect on the cable. Even if they let the caliper hang and damaged the cable, it would most likely affect the parking brake on engagement, as the motor tries to pull the damaged area back into the sheath, not on disengagement. On disengagement, the motor just turns the front cable wheel CCW until the wheel reaches the micro-switch. The motor doesn't push the cable back to the rear. The spring in the rear caliper pulls the cable back through. There's basically no load on the motor even if the cable was damaged.
So, it's not bad luck and I don't think it's a tech issue. It was a previously identified Warranty Campaign that was missed at the time. Just a bad batch of motors that was identified by BRP and could have been replaced 6 years ago. Sorry that happened. But it works now, so enjoy the ride.