Has anyone tried this lift from Harbor Freight?

[trikermutha]

I brought it back and bought a set of 6 ton jack stands that raise to 24". That should be good.

Really never need to go that high. But you have more than enough support now.

 

[jzeiler]

You don't need to go that high if you cut the old sway bar, then it will just slide out.

 

[Yowzer]

You don't need to go that high if you cut the old sway bar, then it will just slide out.

But then you still need to put the new sway bar in (and need the same clearance), unless you install a BajaRon Ultra bar, which is 3 pieces - yes?

(Bit of a noob question, as I haven't done this yet, just thinking/planning.)

 

[jzeiler]

But then you still need to put the new sway bar in (and need the same clearance), unless you install a BajaRon Ultra bar, which is 3 pieces - yes?

(Bit of a noob question, as I haven't done this yet, just thinking/planning.)

Why would you install anything else than the best?

 

[Yowzer]

Why would you install anything else than the best?

Just trying to figure the logistics for the job...

 

[jzeiler]

I am with you there. I had to raise mine up to install the front bumper/skid plate and I jacked up the A-arms and put blocks of wood under the tires until I had the height I needed. Having two floor jacks made this an easy choice.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks for your input. I didn't quite get a definitive answer from the comments, but in doing more research, I have decided to return it. I already have a Harbor Freight 1500lb capacity lift, so I'll take Lamonster's recommendation from a comment I stumbled on and use that to lift the front of the bike, while leaving the back tire on the ground. I'll get taller jack stands to stabilize the front.

Raise it up as high as you can and put a concrete block under the back wheel and jack stands under the front. Then remove the the Jack and put the Jack on something like a pallet to give it more height and then you can raise the whole thing up some more.

 

[fochie]

Put Ron's Ultimate Sway Bar on our 2020 RTL last month. After reading tons of SL forum reviews, I decided to use the suggested trailer ramps approach. Worked great, had 26" of clearance, laid out a couple moving blankets, dragged out a floor fan since it was 102 degrees at the time and knocked it out. Best of all, I felt very safe while doing it.

For the cat delete I did last week, I backed up the front wheels of the bike onto HF poly ramps, then used an old HF motorcycle/ATV jack positioned on the center frame area towards the back to raise the rear tire enough to insert a few chunks of 2x6 until the bike was pretty much level. I will probably use that approach for oil changes as well.

For the new front brake pads and rotors that I did yesterday, I used a simple floor jack on the outside tubular frame on one side towards the front, to get one wheel high enough to slip a jack stand under the A arm; when done, rinse/repeat for the other side. I initially tried to raise both fronts at the same time by using the motorcycle/ATV jack under the center frame towards the front, but I didn't like the way things started to rock back/forth once the fronts were off the ground, leaving only the rear tire having full contact.

Tons of ways to skin a cat (or a Spyder, I guess

 

[Quickdraw]

I ended up using my harbor freight 1,500 lb. capacity floor jack and positioning it to just jack up the front wheels. I used the jack stands under the A arms. Worked perfectly. Thanks for all the suggestions and help, helping decide ultimately how I should proceed. Funny how the bar seemed to come out and go in easier than when I did it on my '21 RT, but I'm not complaining, that's for sure.