Having Apple CarPlay problems with iPhone 17 - anyone had success with the 2024/25 dash and an Apple 17?

[Tslepebull]

I have been using Apple Carplay with great success on my 2025 Canyon with my iPhone 14. However, last week I took delivery of an iPhone 17 and that is when the problems started. The phone and my headset paired to the Canyon just like the 14 did. I turned on my headset, started the Canyon and waited for the dash to tell me the headset was paired. Then I plugged the cable into my phone and waited for the announcement that it was also paired. I opened Apple maps and Pandora from my phone and then I had navigation and music - all worked just like with my Apple 14. However, after 5-10 minutes the dash disconnected from my phone. My screen reverted to the three primary screens and after 15-20 seconds the dash reset with a message that it had paired with my phone. ACP and maps came back first, then Pandora, and things were normal for another 5-10 minutes, when this process started over. This went on most of the afternoon, until CarPlay disconnected and didn't come back. I stopped for fuel, and when I restarted the Canyon I had normal function again for about 10 minutes, when the whole disconnect/restart thing started over. I had done the software update to V4.1 several months ago without problems. I have tried three different charge cables (using the new USB C connector) for the new phone and they all acted the same. I bought a new cable specifically labeled to work with CarPlay, and it also misbehaved. Has anyone else had success with the 2024/2025 dash and an Apple 17?

 

[racoon]

I have a 2024 Spyder RT Sea2Sky and have been successfully using Apple CarPlay with my iPhone 16e.

I upgraded from an earlier iPhone model that used a Lightning connector, and it took testing of 5 different cables before I found one that worked reliably. It was still a bit flaky at times. On a trip from Jonesboro, Arkansas down through Memphis, Tennessee and then east to Nashville at first CarPlay wouldn't work, and then suddenly started working as I was driving near Memphis, then stopped for a while, and then started again while I was cruising down the freeway at 65 mph, and then stopped as I got to Nashville, then started again after passing Nashville.

I now use a Belkin USB A to USB C cable with my iPhone 16e and my Spyder. It's a braided cable, which I thought was a better choice considering the possibility of vibration while riding causing the cable to rub against something. I haven't had any problems with the Belkin cable and my iPhone 16e on my Spyder, but it's been a few weeks since I rode my Spyder.

I also connect my Spyder to a Battery Tender Jr when it's parked in my garage. I noticed once when I didn't leave it connected that I received some weird message about voltage when I turned the key on, but the engine started fine. But then CarPlay wouldn't connect. I rode about 15-20 minutes and then stopped for gas, and when I started the engine after filling up CarPlay started right up. So how's your battery?

 

[Tslepebull]

I have a 2024 Spyder RT Sea2Sky and have been successfully using Apple CarPlay with my iPhone 16e.

I upgraded from an earlier iPhone model that used a Lightning connector, and it took testing of 5 different cables before I found one that worked reliably. It was still a bit flaky at times. On a trip from Jonesboro, Arkansas down through Memphis, Tennessee and then east to Nashville at first CarPlay wouldn't work, and then suddenly started working as I was driving near Memphis, then stopped for a while, and then started again while I was cruising down the freeway at 65 mph, and then stopped as I got to Nashville, then started again after passing Nashville.

I now use a Belkin USB A to USB C cable with my iPhone 16e and my Spyder. It's a braided cable, which I thought was a better choice considering the possibility of vibration while riding causing the cable to rub against something. I haven't had any problems with the Belkin cable and my iPhone 16e on my Spyder, but it's been a few weeks since I rode my Spyder.

I also connect my Spyder to a Battery Tender Jr when it's parked in my garage. I noticed once when I didn't leave it connected that I received some weird message about voltage when I turned the key on, but the engine started fine. But then CarPlay wouldn't connect. I rode about 15-20 minutes and then stopped for gas, and when I started the engine after filling up CarPlay started right up. So how's your battery?

I am using a 1.5' braided cable that is "supposed" to support high speed data as well as charging and is specifically marketed for ACP. It also has a 90 degree USB C connector which is convenient in the confines of the glovebox. I have also used an Optimate 4 battery maintainer since I drove it home in April so battery issues are less likely. The odd thing is that ACP worked fine with my iPhone 14 and Lightning Connector. ACP works fine with the new phone and USB C at start up and in between shutdown/restart events. I feel like the issue is related to settings on the new phone rather than the info-screen. I have read some posts on line about ACP problems with new model phones and other vehicles that suggested having VPN is problematic. I am planning to visit my phone retailer today to ask them about disabling VPN on my phone. I may purchase a Belkin cable and try that too. Thanks.

 

[racoon]

Google found this:

To disable a VPN on your iPhone, go to Settings > General > VPN & Device Management > VPN, then toggle the switch to "Not Connected," or open your specific VPN app and tap "Disconnect," or delete the profile entirely if it keeps reconnecting.

I just checked mine and it's set to "Not Connected".

 

[Tslepebull]

I checked my phone and VPN is also not connected. However, I may have resolution and it does not make any sense. I rode over to my dealer today to pick their brains on this issue. I was still using the short cable with a 90 degree USB C connector. ACP reset a half dozen times on my trip across town. When I got there, I questioned one of the service writers about the issue. He said they had not heard anything official from BRP about the problem, but that he would come out and have a look. He poked around on the touch screen looking for something amiss and nothing stood out. Then he said he had experienced a similar ACP problems with his car when he replaced his phone. He fought the issue for several days with results similar to mine and then had an epiphany. He unplugged his phone, rotated the USB C connector 180 degrees and plugged it back into his phone and it worked; flawlessly. He unplugged my cable, flipped my phone over and plugged the cable in again. We stood there for about 10 minutes with my Canyon idling and no disconnect/restart. Optimistic, I left the dealership and went on an hour ride; no disconnect/restart. I stopped for groceries, turned off my headset, disconnected the phone, and did my shopping. When I got back I paired my headset to the screen as usual, plugged the cable into my phone in the new orientation, and initiated ACP. Once again, in the new connector orientation, everything was perfect all the way home.

Now I know this shouldn't be an issue, the USB C connector "should" be ambidextrous and I would have called "Bovine Excrement" at the suggestion if I wasn't so desperate and the service writer wasn't so sincere. And yes, I still need to try the cable in the original configuration as a control to see if this is repeatable and I will do so. The USB A connector can only be plugged into the dash in one configuration, so that is not a variable. The USB C connector has printing on one side but is blank on the other, so I can track my results and I will report back.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, it makes perfect sense. The connector is physically symmetric, but not electrically symmetric. It’s up to the host to sense the orientation and respond. From Wikipedia;

The USB‑C receptacles have two-fold rotational symmetry because a plug may be inserted into a receptacle in either of two orientations. Electrically, USB‑C plugs are not symmetric, as can be seen in the tables of pin layouts. Also, the two ends of the USB‑C are electrically different, as can be seen in the table of cable wiring. The illusion of symmetry results from how devices respond to the cable. Software makes the plugs and cables behave as though they are symmetric. According to the specifications, "Determination of this host-to-device relationship is accomplished through a Configuration Channel (CC) that is connected through the cable.

So. You can blame BRP software. And I would expect that different cables might also respond differently. Especially because the USB A end is not reversible. Glad you got it worked out. At least for now…

 

[Tslepebull]

Well, it makes perfect sense. The connector is physically symmetric, but not electrically symmetric. It’s up to the host to sense the orientation and respond. From Wikipedia;

The USB‑C receptacles have two-fold rotational symmetry because a plug may be inserted into a receptacle in either of two orientations. Electrically, USB‑C plugs are not symmetric, as can be seen in the tables of pin layouts. Also, the two ends of the USB‑C are electrically different, as can be seen in the table of cable wiring. The illusion of symmetry results from how devices respond to the cable. Software makes the plugs and cables behave as though they are symmetric. According to the specifications, "Determination of this host-to-device relationship is accomplished through a Configuration Channel (CC) that is connected through the cable.

So. You can blame BRP software. And I would expect that different cables might also respond differently. Especially because the USB A end is not reversible. Glad you got it worked out. At least for now…

Well, that is a horse of a different color. What you are saying is exactly what I was thinking (after a little thinking) but I hadn't been able to test that theory yet. I will go ahead and do my little experiment because well - science!