How do you thaw the ignition switch out

[rock]

although the items you are using are designed to thaw the key hole... the by product of these items will freeze...after the product dissapates, they leave a residue that will build up and cause you issues...sounds like you need to thoroughly clean all that gunk out of the ignition, get a cover of some type and make sure it is water proof....hopefully it is not to late and no damage was done to the ignition...

 

[Bob Denman]

Since BRP knows how to build stuff that's gonna be out in the elements; I honestly believe that this is just a matter of digging all of the goo :shocked: out of it, and shielding it from future monsoons...

 

[PatGund]

Ack. This happened to me this morning (temp is -1C / 30F). Looking though options now. An ignition switch cover seems to make more sense.

 

[Bob Denman]

Is it "frozen", to where it doesn't move; or is it just gummed-up? :dontknow:
Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[PatGund]

Is it "frozen", to where it doesn't move; or is it just gummed-up? :dontknow:
Good Luck! :thumbup:

Frozen in that the key doesn't even go all the way down into the lock.

 

[ARtraveler]

I would not use heat on the key. It might damage the chip. How is the switch working in warmer weather? I tend to agree with others about the gunk buildup.

Oooooooooooops. did not think of that. :thumbup: Right on also, about the gunk buildup.

 

[Bob Denman]

If you don't have access to an enclosed, heated space; I'd try some lock de-icer... :thumbup:
But I'd also try to find a way to cover up the switch; so as to prevent water from causing this again!

 

[PatGund]

If you don't have access to an enclosed, heated space; I'd try some lock de-icer... :thumbup:
But I'd also try to find a way to cover up the switch; so as to prevent water from causing this again!

I don't have a garage, so it's going to have to be the latter. Trying to figure out a cover or something I can place over the switch when parked in cold or rainy weather. (the rainy part being pretty much most of the year here in the Pacific Northwet)

 

[Bob Denman]

Measure the outside diameter of the switch...
I was thinking that a furniture store might have a rubber cap that'd fit... :thumbup:

 

[OJ UK]

Hmmmm.....I'm last as usual!
I'm an ex-member of the British Locksmiths Institute.
I agree with all that Scotty has said. WD40 and locks don't make happy bedfellows.
I think I would flush the lock out with isopropyl alcohol and as you can't turn it upside down
blow it out fairly gently with an airline. Do this a couple of times. Then lubricate the
lock with a dry graphite lubricant....don't know what brand names you have over there.

As a footnote to any interested party, WD40 should not be squirted into any tumbler type
lock, be it pin tumbler or disc tumbler as after a while it leaves a sticky
residue which can seize the tumblers. It's a no-no! With lever locks it's fine.

 

[NancysToy]

A heated key can thaw a lock that is filled with ice. With the advent of smart keys, heating over a lighter is no longer a good iead...use hot water. It may take several tires, inserting key, letting it sit, then trying it. Use a good graphite lock spray after that to dry it out.

 

[Bob Ledford]

lock maintenance

I go with Nancy'sToy aka Scotty. But substitute just plain graphite powder. If you get it on anything use plain water to crack it or remove it.

A plain old fashioned hair drier will or should dry the dry all that junk you polluted the lock cylinder up with. When I was a teenager the local parts manager where my Dad worked taught me how to repair lock cylinders and back then (1959) graphite powder was the lubricant of the day. When I apprenticed at the local newspaper after graduating the guy I worked with taught me how to clean or stop slippery floor syndrome around Linotype machines as we used graphite by the pound there.

Sounds like you maybe in the Quad-Cities area?

 

[Bob Denman]

Chipped keys and heat... :yikes:

You're playing with fire!

 

[Yelhelp]

Locksmith for 25 years

:agree: You may have inadvertently gunked things up in there... :shocked: I honestly don't know how you would go about undoing what has been done; perhaps a call to a locksmith for some advice? :dontknow:

I have been a locksmith for 25 years in NY and I can say with certainty people using WD40 on locks was one of the things that paid my wages. WD 40 works for a lot of things BUT USING IT IN A CLOD CLIMATE IN THE WINTER ON LOCKS.
WD40 is an alcohol base lubricant when the alcohol dissipates it leaves a film that when cold plays hell on the wafers that are in a lock. The spring is very small and does not have the force needed to move everything needed to line up so the key can turn.

You may be able to use some brake clean (a little) to clean that gunk out then follow the advise of Dave carry a cover and or lamonts key could do it. I use a Teflon base lubricant "triflow" the best stuff I have found by a long shot.
Now with all that said it may come down to having a new ignition put in because of the electronic aspect of these switches.:banghead:

 

[Bob Denman]

WD-40 also doesn't work too well in firearms... :gaah:

 

[harrypottar]

 

[Bob Denman]

There's only two absolutely necessary tools:
Duct Tape; for when it moves, and it shouldn't...
WD-40; for when it doesn't move, and needs to!

 

[Barlock]

There's only two absolutely necessary tools:
Duct Tape; for when it moves, and it shouldn't...
WD-40; for when it doesn't move, and needs to!

That is funny, Bob, that you suggest WD-40 after so many people (and especially locksmiths) said it was a No-No for locks!

 

[PatGund]

My local Spyder dealer suggested using a key deicer in the short term, and making sure a light amount of lube is in the lock normally.

A tip from a Goldwing rider up in BC also suggested getting one of those reusable hand warmers, activating it, and holding it on the lock for about five minutes.

 

[finless]

Dry graphite lube is great for locks and keys! Locksmith's use it (I use to be one).
Clean out the gunk, lube it with graphite and see if that helps.

Bob