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How hard is it to replace Ball joints?

stocktoy

New member
What's the correct ball joint bolt torque?

Hi all, I finally got the new ball joints for my RT and the ball joint installer tool. Does anyone know the torque value for the pinch bolt on the ball joint stud for a 2017 RT. And where is the best place to buy a service manual for this bike.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

Richard
 
How hard is it to replace Ball joints?

I was at a friend's house today helping him put a new belt on his 2012 RTL, we got it done and was in the process of adjusting the the belt, you know the part where you ride and check the gap at the back sprocket, then back out and recheck!! One of the times of taking it out, I got on it and took it around the block, the bike went well, handled ok, but when I let it slow down by itself, at 45ish it started shaking then went away!!! Got back to the shop and asked him about the shimmy, he said ya it's been doing that for a while, on to the front end we go! Check the pressure's they were a little off, jacked the front up and found some movement in the lower ball joints on both sides, tops seemed fine! My questions to you guys are: how hard is it going to be to take them out; & will I need to press them out? Have any of you done the job before; what may I be getting into if I jump down this rabbit hole? :yikes:
 
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They need to be pressed out. Make sure movement isn't coming from control arm bushings rather than ball joints.
 
Maybe a little late but some items to consider. Yes, it is a rabbit hole.

Since you both have 2012’s, maybe put your front wheels on his machine and ride it in order to rule out a tire or wheel problem.

With this design of front suspension, the weight of the machine is supported by the lower ball joint. Thus, when it is loaded like that, the ball is driven into the socket by the machine’s weight. It’s very hard to allow a vibration from the joint itself when it’s loaded.

The ball joints on the 2012 have the flange in the middle and the snap ring on the end. Thus, the standard Tusk ball joint tool won’t work. If you can’t rig up something to do it in place, you’ll be removing the entire lower control arm. Access to the front bolt is a challenge. Consider replacing the bushings as well if you go that far. Good luck.
 
Maybe a little late but some items to consider. Yes, it is a rabbit hole.

Since you both have 2012’s, maybe put your front wheels on his machine and ride it in order to rule out a tire or wheel problem.

With this design of front suspension, the weight of the machine is supported by the lower ball joint. Thus, when it is loaded like that, the ball is driven into the socket by the machine’s weight. It’s very hard to allow a vibration from the joint itself when it’s loaded.

The ball joints on the 2012 have the flange in the middle and the snap ring on the end. Thus, the standard Tusk ball joint tool won’t work. If you can’t rig up something to do it in place, you’ll be removing the entire lower control arm. Access to the front bolt is a challenge. Consider replacing the bushings as well if you go that far. Good luck.

I got to take a better look at it since this morning, and told my friend what you guy's have said so far, thank you all for the reply's by the way!!! But I had him wiggle the bars back and forth lightly while while I got down there with my fingers and one of the joints on the connecting rods on the left side had some movement, the other three were rock solid!! When I had the tires in the air and grab the tires and lifted with a bar the lower ball joint on both side had play in them, and you could hear a clunking sound! Yes I have to get a little closer to the beast and check the a arm bushing a little closer also!!!:agree: He had a set of tires put on not to long ago and he said wobble was the same with both sets of tires!! I am thinking I don't think changing my tires over to his bike will make a difference, but that wobble would have gone by-by a long time ago if I owned it!!! It's not good in my book!! Thanks again!!!
 
Hello All,

I had my 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT in for state inspection on June 26th 2024 and was very surprised when it did not pass due to out of spec wear on the upper and lower ball joints on one side and a lower ball joint on the other side. The bike has 6500 miles on it and well kept and loved.

Has anyone seen, heard or experinced this especialy with such low miles?

Thank You in Advance! :)
 
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that is very odd.... maybe their inspection technique?? did you take it to a dealership that specializes in Spyder's?
 
Ball joints can get destroyed quickly if the vehicle is run over harsh potholes or tires bounced off of curbs. But that much damage in that short of time is very odd. I wonder if a 2nd expert opinion is in order.
 
Thank you for all your feed back!
Sorry it took so long to answer your questions. I'm recovering from a table saw accident and now on the amends.

The inspection was at a Spyder dealership in which I trust. I was going to do the work myself,
but did not have the time to free up, so I gave the go ahead for the replacement. I did not experience any signs of front-end having any issues, but took the word from the dealership that they would not pass inspection.

I purchased the bike from another owner, so who knows how they road it before me.
 
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