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How long should front and rear brakes last
- Thread starter Fjrwillie
- Start date
Chupaca
New member
Depends....
Many variables...auto manual, single ryder double, highway side roads etc, etc....I had 33,000 on the rear of my manual RS and they were not worn out but was changing the tire and had better pads on hand so I changed them. The fronts are still good. Remember with the manual we tend to use more engine compression to slow down. I have seen some RT's go as low as 5,000 miles :dontknow: not really sure they needed them yet but the 1mm limit is pretty thin looking.....:thumbup:
Many variables...auto manual, single ryder double, highway side roads etc, etc....I had 33,000 on the rear of my manual RS and they were not worn out but was changing the tire and had better pads on hand so I changed them. The fronts are still good. Remember with the manual we tend to use more engine compression to slow down. I have seen some RT's go as low as 5,000 miles :dontknow: not really sure they needed them yet but the 1mm limit is pretty thin looking.....:thumbup:
Bob Denman
New member
Willie,
There's not a whole lot of thickness to them anyway... nojoke
But it's probably best to change them when you don't have to; than not change them, when you do!
There's not a whole lot of thickness to them anyway... nojoke
But it's probably best to change them when you don't have to; than not change them, when you do!
Roadster Renovations
New member
I got 27K out of both the front and the rear. '14 RT.
AeroPilot
Member
30,000 is doing good on brakes---
Depends on your driving area and how you drive. Just did the wifes 15 RTS SE-6 rear pads at 31,300 when I changed her second tire (Kumho). Thought the fronts still had thickness left, but 1,500 more miles I found that one of the pads on the inside front was down to the backing plate. Changed the fronts out then and just avoided having some rotor wear.
Agree with Chupaca that the manual shifts should last longer, and we got this long life due to the open roads around here and not much city Stop and Go! Your mileage will certainly vary!
Depends on your driving area and how you drive. Just did the wifes 15 RTS SE-6 rear pads at 31,300 when I changed her second tire (Kumho). Thought the fronts still had thickness left, but 1,500 more miles I found that one of the pads on the inside front was down to the backing plate. Changed the fronts out then and just avoided having some rotor wear.
Agree with Chupaca that the manual shifts should last longer, and we got this long life due to the open roads around here and not much city Stop and Go! Your mileage will certainly vary!
Bob Denman
New member
At my last service: I had the technician take a look at them. He pronounced them "good to go" for at least another 5,000 miles! :thumbup:
(I'm at 15,000 miles right now...)
(I'm at 15,000 miles right now...)
Fjrwillie
Member
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
BRAKE PADS
..." not much left to them " is like saying my Spyder goes very fast ??????.... The OEM pads have thin line of material removed from the PAD .... If the line was still visible you probably had at least 3000 miles left .......Mike :thumbup:
Fjrwillie
Member
Line was visible on one side, the other was getting close to metal. Just a shiver. But good to know about the 3K. Thanks
Willie
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Roadster Renovations
New member
they sure don't. I started getting a "shush" "shush" noise on the front and I immediately checked the brakes and sure enough, had just got a little into steel. It was so minor and caught so quickly there was no rotor damage. I have a special brake rotor mushroom that goes into a drill and does a great job of breaking up the surface area to help seat the new pads so I didn't need them replaced.
SPYD3R
Active member
17K
at 17,412 miles, i had to replace the left front pads & disk on my '15 F3... the right side wasn't even close to being replaced... neither was the rear...
my RS had well over 50K on her and i never replaced any of the pads, and they still had half of the meat left on them...
and another thing; the RS stopped a heck-of-a-lot better than the F3, and the F3's have those so-called BREMBO brakes that are suppose to be soooooooooo much better... :lecturef_smilie: NOT... :cus:
i check my pads weekly now... the BREMBO's scare me....
SPYD3R
at 17,412 miles, i had to replace the left front pads & disk on my '15 F3... the right side wasn't even close to being replaced... neither was the rear...
my RS had well over 50K on her and i never replaced any of the pads, and they still had half of the meat left on them...
and another thing; the RS stopped a heck-of-a-lot better than the F3, and the F3's have those so-called BREMBO brakes that are suppose to be soooooooooo much better... :lecturef_smilie: NOT... :cus:
i check my pads weekly now... the BREMBO's scare me....
SPYD3R
There's really no denying that the Brembo Caliper's are significantly more effective brake calipers than most others, but even the best calipers & discs can be let down by less braking effort at the pedal &/or sub-standard or even just low grade brake pad material Spyd3r.
Personally, I reckon that for many, no matter what U-fit position they might select, the stock F3 brake pedal position just isn't ever going to allow the rider to deliver the best pressure for optimal braking without making a 'whole of leg' effort - due to the odd angle the pedal is when you sit in that foot forward cruising position, you really hafta lift your foot well clear of the peg/footboard & then push hard to deliver the necessary pedal pressure for optimal braking, & if you haven't done that, then even tho you might think you've pressed hard enough, the angle that your ankle is necessarily operating on means that you only feel as tho you are providing the 'right' amount of pressure & the pedal's not actually getting it due to the odd angle the muscle effort is being delivered thru!! Add the 'less than great' OE pad material to that & the only time the F3 Brembo's get even a slight chance of seriously doing the right thing is when the rider really stomps on the pedal!! But if you do that, they will really work & you will stop on a dime!!
So if you feel that your F3 Brembo brakes aren't working better than the earlier RS brakes, there's a good chance you'll need to look at how hard you are pressing on that pedal, as well as maybe considering swapping to a better performing brake pad material!! Even the RT's that run Brembo calipers & have a pedal that you press on just like you do in your car will benefit significantly from swapping the brake pads for a better quality/higher performance pad material!! :thumbup:
As as for pad wear, because to go along with the vast wide open spaces we've also got a lot of fairly steep & windy roads here in the Hills in South Aust, on my 2013 RT SE5 I made close to 10,000 miles on my OE (Brembo caliper) front pads before wearing them down too close to the metal, and very close to 20,000 miles from the rear pads. I've replaced both ends with a/mkt pads now, & they not only feel & work better, but I've already passed that distance on the fronts & they still look to have plenty of pad material left!
Personally, I reckon that for many, no matter what U-fit position they might select, the stock F3 brake pedal position just isn't ever going to allow the rider to deliver the best pressure for optimal braking without making a 'whole of leg' effort - due to the odd angle the pedal is when you sit in that foot forward cruising position, you really hafta lift your foot well clear of the peg/footboard & then push hard to deliver the necessary pedal pressure for optimal braking, & if you haven't done that, then even tho you might think you've pressed hard enough, the angle that your ankle is necessarily operating on means that you only feel as tho you are providing the 'right' amount of pressure & the pedal's not actually getting it due to the odd angle the muscle effort is being delivered thru!! Add the 'less than great' OE pad material to that & the only time the F3 Brembo's get even a slight chance of seriously doing the right thing is when the rider really stomps on the pedal!! But if you do that, they will really work & you will stop on a dime!!
So if you feel that your F3 Brembo brakes aren't working better than the earlier RS brakes, there's a good chance you'll need to look at how hard you are pressing on that pedal, as well as maybe considering swapping to a better performing brake pad material!! Even the RT's that run Brembo calipers & have a pedal that you press on just like you do in your car will benefit significantly from swapping the brake pads for a better quality/higher performance pad material!! :thumbup:
As as for pad wear, because to go along with the vast wide open spaces we've also got a lot of fairly steep & windy roads here in the Hills in South Aust, on my 2013 RT SE5 I made close to 10,000 miles on my OE (Brembo caliper) front pads before wearing them down too close to the metal, and very close to 20,000 miles from the rear pads. I've replaced both ends with a/mkt pads now, & they not only feel & work better, but I've already passed that distance on the fronts & they still look to have plenty of pad material left!
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SpyderAnn01
Active member
I changed the front pads at 47,000 and the rears around 30,000, 60,000 and just last week at 88,000 miles. I guess it is time to check the front pads.
