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Ignition switch failure

Two and a half weeks ago I pull the Spyder out of the garage to wash it. Start up normal, pull it out and hit the kill switch ( I always use kill switch) to shut down, engine shuts down, turn the key off and remove. Notice the cluster is still on. Put the key back in and try to turn it to the on position but it will not turn. Pull out key again, cluster remains on. Re-engage the kill switch and hit start. Starts normally without the key in the ignition and the ignition in the off position. Key is not even near the bike. Did this several more times with same result. Put my gear on, start the engine and ride to nearest dealer 7 miles away. BRP replaced with new ignition under BEST warranty. So the good is BRP covered the cost, less the $50 deductible, including a third key (I had 3). The bad is another 2&1/2 weeks without a ride. In December I was down for 3 weeks because of a bad reverse actuator. That time I had to be towed. Even though all this has been covered by warranty I am starting to loose confidence in the Spyder. Last thing I need is to be on a long trip and have another problem. I've never had a vehicle of any kind (including boats) that has been subject to so many failures and such long repair times.
 
Two and a half weeks ago I pull the Spyder out of the garage to wash it. Start up normal, pull it out and hit the kill switch ( I always use kill switch) to shut down, engine shuts down, turn the key off and remove. Notice the cluster is still on. Put the key back in and try to turn it to the on position but it will not turn. Pull out key again, cluster remains on. Re-engage the kill switch and hit start. Starts normally without the key in the ignition and the ignition in the off position. Key is not even near the bike. Did this several more times with same result. Put my gear on, start the engine and ride to nearest dealer 7 miles away. BRP replaced with new ignition under BEST warranty. So the good is BRP covered the cost, less the $50 deductible, including a third key (I had 3). The bad is another 2&1/2 weeks without a ride. In December I was down for 3 weeks because of a bad reverse actuator. That time I had to be towed. Even though all this has been covered by warranty I am starting to loose confidence in the Spyder. Last thing I need is to be on a long trip and have another problem. I've never had a vehicle of any kind (including boats) that has been subject to so many failures and such long repair times.


Never use the kill switch on motorcycles unless there is an emergency. Kill switches go bad. Use key to turn Spyder on and off.
 
Sounds like the D.E.S.S. error. Did you get a D.E.S.S. Error on your screen?

The D.E.S.S. error looks like this:
attachment.php
I started a thread " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" By Deanna777.

Their is a lot of excellent information on that thread, and the Ignition Switch is UNDER WARRANTY! On the above thread their are part #'s listed for : Model Year, Spyder Model.


This is what a BRP Tech ( an email) sent me thru a my dealership said" We have had cases where a cell phone or magnetic card, placed near the ignition switch cause this. This includes any device that may emit some type of frequency."

Have your dealership OPEN UP A CASE WITH BRP.

What year is your spyder?

Did you have any electronics' in/or near your spyder?



If you get the D.E.S.S error again try this: " Turn on/off immediately DO NOT LET THE SYSTEM SHUT DOWN and do that for 4 to 5 cycles.
Get the D.E.S.S model replaced also, it is UNDER WARRANTY.

Keep us posted and please post on the " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! by Deanna777.

I have a 2014 RTS-SE6 the first D.E.S.S. module was replaced I had 6,994 miles, and the 2nd D.E.S.S. Module was replace I had 8,740 miles( ignition switch was replaced at the same time).

I hope you don't get stranded.

Deanna
 

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Two and a half weeks ago I pull the Spyder out of the garage to wash it. Start up normal, pull it out and hit the kill switch ( I always use kill switch) to shut down, engine shuts down, turn the key off and remove. Notice the cluster is still on. Put the key back in and try to turn it to the on position but it will not turn. Pull out key again, cluster remains on. Re-engage the kill switch and hit start. Starts normally without the key in the ignition and the ignition in the off position. Key is not even near the bike. Did this several more times with same result. Put my gear on, start the engine and ride to nearest dealer 7 miles away. BRP replaced with new ignition under BEST warranty. So the good is BRP covered the cost, less the $50 deductible, including a third key (I had 3). The bad is another 2&1/2 weeks without a ride. In December I was down for 3 weeks because of a bad reverse actuator. That time I had to be towed. Even though all this has been covered by warranty I am starting to loose confidence in the Spyder. Last thing I need is to be on a long trip and have another problem. I've never had a vehicle of any kind (including boats) that has been subject to so many failures and such long repair times.

This is par for the course. I know people that had their Spyders at dealers for months at a time. I would call BRP and start a complaining about the service. I trailer mine, when I go more then 200 miles and then only go 200 miles from the trailer, my AAA towing only good for 200 miles. This is due to the good service tech and availability of parts. Washing a Spyder with to much water can lead to these kind of problems.

Mike
 
This is par for the course. I know people that had their Spyders at dealers for months at a time. I would call BRP and start a complaining about the service. I trailer mine, when I go more then 200 miles and then only go 200 miles from the trailer, my AAA towing only good for 200 miles. This is due to the good service tech and availability of parts. Washing a Spyder with to much water can lead to these kind of problems.

Mike

If it gets where I don't feel comfortable going more than 200 miles I will get something else other than a Spyder. Not there yet but close. It's really too bad because I do enjoy the ride immensely.
 
That's a new one...

My cluster stays on a bit every time I shut down but to be able to start it up with out the key in or in range is a new one....:yikes: glad they got you fixed up but sorry you have had these issues....:banghead:
 
Sounds like the D.E.S.S. error. Did you get a D.E.S.S. Error on your screen?

The D.E.S.S. error looks like this:
attachment.php
I started a thread " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" By Deanna777.

Their is a lot of excellent information on that thread, and the Ignition Switch is UNDER WARRANTY! On the above thread their are part #'s listed for : Model Year, Spyder Model.


This is what a BRP Tech ( an email) sent me thru a my dealership said" We have had cases where a cell phone or magnetic card, placed near the ignition switch cause this. This includes any device that may emit some type of frequency."

Have your dealership OPEN UP A CASE WITH BRP.

What year is your spyder?

Did you have any electronics' in/or near your spyder?



If you get the D.E.S.S error again try this: " Turn on/off immediately DO NOT LET THE SYSTEM SHUT DOWN and do that for 4 to 5 cycles.
Get the D.E.S.S model replaced also, it is UNDER WARRANTY.

Keep us posted and please post on the " D.E.S.S. KEY CODE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! by Deanna777.

I have a 2014 RTS-SE6 the first D.E.S.S. module was replaced I had 6,994 miles, and the 2nd D.E.S.S. Module was replace I had 8,740 miles( ignition switch was replaced at the same time).

I hope you don't get stranded.

Deanna
I'm having the DESS Key issue. My bike has been in the shop for 2 days. They cannot get it to duplicate. So my cell phones may be causing this? Hummm. How long does it take to replace the DESS module? I will let my dealer know tomorrow about the cell phone or any other electronic. I just had wireless security cameras installed in my house also. Let me know if this could be causing it.

Thanks
Reggie
 
Never use the kill switch on motorcycles unless there is an emergency. Kill switches go bad. Use key to turn Spyder on and off.

I disagree with this statement. MSF teaches to ALWAYS use the kill switch. This is because every motorcycle has the kill switch in the same place while key locations are different. (1) If you are riding a different bike, you will reflexively know where the kill switch is, and (2) If you are in the habit of using the kill switch then in an "emergency" your habit will have you use the kill switch.
 
The operators manual also recommends you first turn off the engine with the engine switch, then turn the key off! My dealer recommended to follow this procedure because the electronic brain of the can am then shuts down in a orderly fashion. When you shut down a computer there is an orderly sequence you follow not just cut power and hope all is ok! The engine switch is just that a switch to turn off the engine, and the key switch turns on and off the electrical system in an orderly fashion! Cheers Jim :2thumbs:
 
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