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Is It OK to Make 500 km On the First Day With a Brand-New 2023 Can-Am RT Limited?
- Thread starter esky
- Start date
Good for you, don't let any moss grow under those tires!!
Cobranut
Active member
Agreed.Good to hear that you had a great ride but the blisters are more likely from gripping the grips much toooo tightly. Take the time to learn to relax your grip and open and close your hands every few minutes to prevent cramping and blisters.
I also added the foam grip covers from SlingMods. The cushion and larger diameter helped a lot on longer rides.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Just as an aside, I had to ride 300kms from my dealer to home with both my new ‘16 F3 and my new ‘21 RT, with the only possible route being on a freeway. Sure, I varied the speed as much as I could, but that wasn’t much. I had zero issues with motor or transmission in the following years.
I am not suggesting anyone run their Spyder in this way, it was simply that it was unavoidable for me. This is more to let new riders know that it is unlikely you will have issues if you are forced to ride home on the freeway
Pete
I am not suggesting anyone run their Spyder in this way, it was simply that it was unavoidable for me. This is more to let new riders know that it is unlikely you will have issues if you are forced to ride home on the freeway
Pete
If you don't mind, here's some funny stuff: Yesterday was my wife’s very first ride ever (!) First, she said I should have bought this bike years ago, "instead of just swapping them every few years" 
She asked me to take her to a store for some quick shopping, and in the parking lot, she asked me if I had an alarm for "this expensive machine." I told her it’s pretty pricey, and guess what? She said, "No, no, for such an expensive machine, you have to install an alarm!" Guys, looks like I’m going to be taking advantage of buying accessories! And she loved the ride so much that I’m seriously starting to wonder if I made a mistake hyping this bike to her. Looks like I might be losing my freedom! 
She asked me to take her to a store for some quick shopping, and in the parking lot, she asked me if I had an alarm for "this expensive machine." I told her it’s pretty pricey, and guess what? She said, "No, no, for such an expensive machine, you have to install an alarm!" Guys, looks like I’m going to be taking advantage of buying accessories! And she loved the ride so much that I’m seriously starting to wonder if I made a mistake hyping this bike to her. Looks like I might be losing my freedom! Took my two-wheeler for a Safety inspection and back today (selling it) and wow, I really missed those sharp cornering turns! That’s something you just don’t get with a three-wheeler. But honestly, riding the Can-Am Spyder feels like stepping into a whole new dimension of motorcycling. It’s a completely different world, and just as thrilling in its own way. As much as I’ve loved two wheels, I know now, there’s no going back.
That’s something you just don’t get with a three-wheeler. But honestly, riding the Can-Am Spyder feels like stepping into a whole new dimension of motorcycling. It’s a completely different world, and just as thrilling in its own way. As much as I’ve loved two wheels, I know now, there’s no going back.
If you are able to move around on your Spyder enough, take the time to practice, and learn how to move your body weight to enhance the Spyder's unmatched stability and cornering capability while smoothly inputting the necessary control input, you'll find that you can out corner just about anything else at speeds up to 80 mph, especially in the tight, twisty stuff with short straights.Took my two-wheeler for a Safety inspection and back today (selling it) and wow, I really missed those sharp cornering turns!
View attachment 249457
Cobranut
Active member
That's not been my experience.
My F3S will lift a front wheel at much lower speeds than I can take the same corner in my cars.
Trying to push any harder and the nanny kicks in and cuts power.
That's not been my experience.
My F3S will lift a front wheel at much lower speeds than I can take the same corner in my cars.
Trying to push any harder and the nanny kicks in and cuts power.
That'll probably be because you aren't moving your weight around sufficiently in order to counteract the forces that prompt the Nanny intervention (if your behind is remaining in the one spot on the seat all the time, then that one's a certainty!); maybe it's because you're not being smooth enough in your control input; &/or because you're not picking the right lines to keep it all tidy.
When it comes to picking the right line, if you haven't heard of it already, look up and start practicing 'Late Apexing' (there's one link below) but once you're doing that fairly well most of the time, then just as I was taught and I've since found, both personally and in the majority of those I've helped to come to grips with their Spyders & riding fast but smoothly, that if you use those Nanny interventions as signals (and I still get them, just nowhere near as often as before - but not yet as infrequently as some of the many better ryders out there!
) to tell you that you've just done something that you could've done better, it usually doesn't take too long to start building your speed, improving your cornering speed and stability, and basically realising the inherent stability and cornering advantages that these Reverse Trikes bring to riding.As I said earlier "If you are able to move around on your Spyder enough, take the time to practice, and learn how to move your body weight to enhance the Spyder's unmatched stability and cornering capability while smoothly inputting the necessary control input, you'll find that you can out corner just about anything else at speeds up to about 80 mph, especially in the tight, twisty stuff with short straights.
Ps: Lifting a front wheel isn't necessarily an awful thing on a Reverse Trike (but lifting TWO wheels can be!!), just don't touch the brakes while you've got a wheel in the air, and ideally, you would've already moved your weight forward, in, and down toward the inside of the corner. The Nanny will only intervene if you touch your brakes and rapidly slow the wheel in the air, causing it to be rotating at a markedly different speed to the two grounded wheels; &/or if the yaw sensor detects that you are getting close to flipping, but these trikes can raise one wheel seriously high before that happens, and if the raised still wheel keeps spinning at a similar speed to the grounded wheels, you can use your weight transfer out juuuust a touch to make the lifted wheel stay up there for some 10's of metres without much issue; &/or if you've applied too much steering input too quickly - smooootttthhh ryding tends to avoid that.
Cobranut
Active member
Thanks for your input.That'll probably be because you aren't moving your weight around sufficiently in order to counteract the forces that prompt the Nanny intervention (if your behind is remaining in the one spot on the seat all the time, then that one's a certainty!); maybe it's because you're not being smooth enough in your control input; &/or because you're not picking the right lines to keep it all tidy.
When it comes to picking the right line, if you haven't heard of it already, look up and start practicing 'Late Apexing' (there's one link below) but once you're doing that fairly well most of the time, then just as I was taught and I've since found, both personally and in the majority of those I've helped to come to grips with their Spyders & riding fast but smoothly, that if you use those Nanny interventions as signals (and I still get them, just nowhere near as often as before - but not yet as infrequently as some of the many better ryders out there!
As I said earlier "If you are able to move around on your Spyder enough, take the time to practice, and learn how to move your body weight to enhance the Spyder's unmatched stability and cornering capability while smoothly inputting the necessary control input, you'll find that you can out corner just about anything else at speeds up to about 80 mph, especially in the tight, twisty stuff with short straights.
Ps: Lifting a front wheel isn't necessarily an awful thing on a Reverse Trike (but lifting TWO wheels can be!!), just don't touch the brakes while you've got a wheel in the air, and ideally, you would've already moved your weight forward, in, and down toward the inside of the corner. The Nanny will only intervene if you touch your brakes and rapidly slow the wheel in the air, causing it to be rotating at a markedly different speed to the two grounded wheels; &/or if the yaw sensor detects that you are getting close to flipping, but these trikes can raise one wheel seriously high before that happens, and if the raised still wheel keeps spinning at a similar speed to the grounded wheels, you can use your weight transfer out juuuust a touch to make the lifted wheel stay up there for some 10's of metres without much issue; &/or if you've applied too much steering input too quickly - smooootttthhh ryding rends to avoid that.
Being as I road raced cars for many years, and I'm building another racer as we speak, I know how to find the proper line through a corner, and am familiar with being smooth on the controls.
I do move around on the trike, but I'm not as agile as I was in my younger years, and not really into crawling around like a GP rider anymore.
Also, the wide bars and high steering forces required, not to mention those forces being backwards to a two wheeler, makes it even harder to shift weight like on a bike. There's also the fact that the trike itself weighs almost 900#, so my body weight can only do so much.
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