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Key-On Power

jthornton

New member
Is there a handy place near the dash or in the general front area that might have a key-on power circuit that can be tapped on the RT?

Thanks
JT
 
The orange and red wire the goes to the analog gages should work depending on amp requirements.

Bob

:agree: as long as you are just using it for switching. I'd protect the CANbus sytem with a diode if your new circuit uses a relay. In the mid-rear, the light in the passenger heated grip switch does the job nicely.
 
:agree: as long as you are just using it for switching. I'd protect the CANbus sytem with a diode if your new circuit uses a relay. In the mid-rear, the light in the passenger heated grip switch does the job nicely.

I know what a diode is/does but I'm not experienced enough to use one on the fly. Can you give me some pointers?

I searched the wiring diagram and dang I need to print that on my plotter so I can follow it better.

A assume you could also use the headlight as a low power source like 1 amp for powering a gps or charging a USB device.

Thanks
JT
 
I know what a diode is/does but I'm not experienced enough to use one on the fly. Can you give me some pointers?

I searched the wiring diagram and dang I need to print that on my plotter so I can follow it better.

A assume you could also use the headlight as a low power source like 1 amp for powering a gps or charging a USB device.

Thanks
JT

A diode is a biased device that allows electron flow in one direction. Preventing any flow in reverse can ( and will ) protect the canbus lines from interference and/or spikes. It would be installed inline series with the voltage source. A LED is a diode that emits light and you will notice it has to be installed with the correct polarity to work. here is a link to more info

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode

Your best choice may be using a fuse tap from an aux circuit ( say trunk charger) to power a relay that creates a circuit from the battery rather than tie into any existing circuit.
 
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The diode (1n4006) goes across the coil. You don't need the 47 ohm resistor or the capacitor.
I wouldn't use anything that required an amp from any part of the Spyder's native system

Ok that makes sense, just use the diode across the relay coil on the Spyder part of the system?

Thanks
JT
 
FWIW Teddy wanted me to tell you that if your looking for a power sourse for a GPS...

We unplugged our analogue gauges for the digital ones on the LCD and used the right side to Power our Teddy-Cam LCD and the left side to Power our Zumo 665 GPS. Both came with a fuse built into their own wiring harnesses, and we've not had an issue with this set-up in almost 3 yrs now.

 
We unplugged our analogue gauges for the digital ones on the LCD and used the right side to Power our Teddy-Cam LCD and the left side to Power our Zumo 665 GPS. Both came with a fuse built into their own wiring harnesses, and we've not had an issue with this set-up in almost 3 yrs now.

Which wires did you use from the analog gauges?

JT
 
Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding your question, but ummmmm..... the power & the ground wires :rolleyes:

No problem, on mine the ground is obvious but the power is not. On one side of the gauge is a plug with 3 wires... (JT gets the gauge to look at it) and so much for assuming, what I assumed was the ground is not. I just examined my gauge and the center wire in the plug is marked GND and the side spade is the power for the gauge light which looks to be a LED light. The other two terminals are marked S and I so I assume they are the CAN buss communication wires.

JT
 
Use the top spade connector that powers the light.
I recall that being orange with a red stripe but I am sitting in the airport and can't double check

Bob
 
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