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Looking at an '09 RS SM5 - are they Reliable & Easy to work for DIY repairs & maintenance? What about Electronics?
- Thread starter RykTek
- Start date
I had a 09 RS. It was very reliable, had very few problems. There were a couple things that needed repair, when I purchased it. I got a very good price, which took into account that there was some work that need to be done. After the repairs were made it was routine service and tires. The issue you will run into is that some parts may be hard, or impossible, to obtain and many dealers will not work on a Spyder more than 10 years old. Also you should check to see if BRP still supports the BUDS diagnostic software for a 2009.
My suggestion would be to check with a nearby dealer about parts availability, and their willingness to work on it, should you need something repaired that you might not be able to do yourself.
My suggestion would be to check with a nearby dealer about parts availability, and their willingness to work on it, should you need something repaired that you might not be able to do yourself.
RykTek
New member
Unfortunately the closest shop would be 1.5hr away from me and I'd have to rent a trailer to drop it off and pick it up.
Plus, I've never owned (or really wanted) a bike that required software to figure out what was wrong with the bike.
I would really benefit from a 3-wheeler, but it's a lot of cash for me to drop on a gamble. But I sure do love the look of them.
Plus, I've never owned (or really wanted) a bike that required software to figure out what was wrong with the bike.
I would really benefit from a 3-wheeler, but it's a lot of cash for me to drop on a gamble. But I sure do love the look of them.
DickB
Active member
I do all my own maintenance and repairs as well except mounting and balancing tires. For some repairs such as replacing sensors you will need BUDS, as I did when I replaced a faulty yaw sensor, and to properly bleed the brakes. BUDS works for all years up to 2017 and BUDS2 for 2017 and later.
PDF service manuals are available at low cost. You might want to get one for 2009 and take a look.
No need to be nervous about electronics.
I bought a 2014 RSS with a damaged front end, many parts missing. I replaced more than 20 parts with a combination of new and used. A used yaw sensor was a fraction of new cost and has been fine for 4,000 miles now after calibrating with BUDS. A tip is to use the BRP parts catalog or one of the online OEM parts suppliers to get the part number, then do a search on that part number to find suppliers and prices of new and used parts. Some parts are no longer available new, but all the ones that I needed were - I bought some used to save $$.
PDF service manuals are available at low cost. You might want to get one for 2009 and take a look.
No need to be nervous about electronics.
I bought a 2014 RSS with a damaged front end, many parts missing. I replaced more than 20 parts with a combination of new and used. A used yaw sensor was a fraction of new cost and has been fine for 4,000 miles now after calibrating with BUDS. A tip is to use the BRP parts catalog or one of the online OEM parts suppliers to get the part number, then do a search on that part number to find suppliers and prices of new and used parts. Some parts are no longer available new, but all the ones that I needed were - I bought some used to save $$.
RykTek
New member
I am unfamiliar with BUDS. I assumed it was a "dealership" software. Am I mistaken?
I would LOVE to gain the confidence to purchase one of these bikes. I'm 60+ and have some physical issues that would make a 3 wheeler a much better choice for me.
I appreciate the help I have gotten almost IMMEDIATELY after posting here! VERY much! I'm glad I joined.
I would LOVE to gain the confidence to purchase one of these bikes. I'm 60+ and have some physical issues that would make a 3 wheeler a much better choice for me.
I appreciate the help I have gotten almost IMMEDIATELY after posting here! VERY much! I'm glad I joined.
Freddy
Active member
I bought my SM5 new in 2009. It's done about 106,000km. It had a couple of somewhat minor issues while in warranty but nothing since. The 'worst' thing that's happened to it was a decade ago when the water pump oil seal began leaking a few drops on the floor after a ride. I handled the repair ok, plus a valve check & adjust at about 65,000km. It's a very reliable machine and I wouldn't hesitate heading off on it a month long ride if circumstances again permitted.
I wouldn't say they're simple to work on but not much is these days. They're certainly simpler thann later models.
I am unfamiliar with BUDS. I assumed it was a "dealership" software. Am I mistaken? No.
The spark plug leads were a weak point and usually required replacement the first time they were removed with quality leads from RajaRon.
The bearing in the drive pulley of the rear wheel can become loose in its bore. Grab the pulley top & bottom and rock it to feel any looseness within. The drive pulley on the transmission wasn't torqued adequately when assembled, causing some to show 'the red dust of death' even until recent times. The bolt needs to be torqued to 115ft lb. Brake fluid flush every 2 years is essential.
I wouldn't say they're simple to work on but not much is these days. They're certainly simpler thann later models.
I am unfamiliar with BUDS. I assumed it was a "dealership" software. Am I mistaken? No.
The spark plug leads were a weak point and usually required replacement the first time they were removed with quality leads from RajaRon.
The bearing in the drive pulley of the rear wheel can become loose in its bore. Grab the pulley top & bottom and rock it to feel any looseness within. The drive pulley on the transmission wasn't torqued adequately when assembled, causing some to show 'the red dust of death' even until recent times. The bolt needs to be torqued to 115ft lb. Brake fluid flush every 2 years is essential.
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DickB
Active member
BUDS is update and diagnostic software. It is used by dealerships but is also available to owners.
www.powersports-diag.com
It is not necessary for most maintenance and repairs but as I said is needed for some. You can read diagnostic codes through the Spyder's console so it is not necessary for that. It could be an expense that you hold off until you come across a repair that requires it. I think the only scheduled maintenance that requires it is a proper brake fluid change/bleed, but I gather many have done this without BUDS which would leave a bit of old fluid in the ABS/Vehicle Stability System parts.
Like you, dealerships are 2 hours away for me, so even though BUDS is not cheap it has offset trailer rental, labor costs, and days of time for me. Plus, I was able to repair a fault on my Ryker with it that the dealer could not.
BRP BUDS / BUDS2 MPI-3 Diagnostic Kit 4-TEC/E-TEC
For diagnosis of all BRP 4-TEC / E-TEC vehicles: - PWC and Sport Boats SeaDoo. - Snowmobiles Skidoo and Lynx. - all Can Am vehicles (ATV, SSV, Roadst...
www.powersports-diag.com
It is not necessary for most maintenance and repairs but as I said is needed for some. You can read diagnostic codes through the Spyder's console so it is not necessary for that. It could be an expense that you hold off until you come across a repair that requires it. I think the only scheduled maintenance that requires it is a proper brake fluid change/bleed, but I gather many have done this without BUDS which would leave a bit of old fluid in the ABS/Vehicle Stability System parts.
Like you, dealerships are 2 hours away for me, so even though BUDS is not cheap it has offset trailer rental, labor costs, and days of time for me. Plus, I was able to repair a fault on my Ryker with it that the dealer could not.
Check in your area to see if an independent wrench has BUDS. There is a rare need for it, but if you would become interested in working on Spyders for others it might be a nice sideline. Good luck. I would say if you bought it "ride it like you stole it". Because these 998 engines love to be revved.
Leon
Leon
I have a 12' RS I bought new in '12. It has just over 30k miles on it now and has been one of the most reliable bikes I've ever owned. Typical servicing and fairly easy to work on once you have pulled the plastic panels a few times.
The electronics are actually super simple. Don't sweat BUDS unless you need it. I haven't in 13 years.
The only thing to look into on the 09' is if it fell into the DPS power steering issue? Recalled? Don't remember...
The electronics are actually super simple. Don't sweat BUDS unless you need it. I haven't in 13 years.
The only thing to look into on the 09' is if it fell into the DPS power steering issue? Recalled? Don't remember...
BajaRon
Well-known member
As bikes go, the Spyder is not easy to work on. But it is doable and there are mods which can make DIY maintenance much easier. The manual will be more problem free than the SE, but the SE is pretty reliable as well.
As stated, BUDS is not necessary for most trouble shooting or repair. The DPS (Dynamic Power Steering) is something that you would be wise to look into. Though with only 8,000 miles, it should be in pretty good shape. One thing that will keep one of the original DPS units going indefinitely is to turn the steering lock to lock several times on each ride. I can explain this if someone is interested. It has to do with overcoming a design flaw.
Some parts can be harder to find for the older models. But with dealers not working on 10 year old bikes, you can imagine that we see a lot of them. No big deal. We've yet to have a Spyder that we can't find parts for. The hardest one for parts seems to be the 2010 RT. First year version and it had a number of 1-off parts that were never used again. It's taken us a bit longer to find some parts for this Spyder. But have always been able to.
Just as a side note. My opinion is that the 2010 RT and the 2013 RT were the 2 worst Spyders made. Though having said this, with a few upgrades, they are as good as any others. BRP just cut too many corners on these models. Luckily, they are corners easily, and not too expansively, corrected.
As stated, BUDS is not necessary for most trouble shooting or repair. The DPS (Dynamic Power Steering) is something that you would be wise to look into. Though with only 8,000 miles, it should be in pretty good shape. One thing that will keep one of the original DPS units going indefinitely is to turn the steering lock to lock several times on each ride. I can explain this if someone is interested. It has to do with overcoming a design flaw.
Some parts can be harder to find for the older models. But with dealers not working on 10 year old bikes, you can imagine that we see a lot of them. No big deal. We've yet to have a Spyder that we can't find parts for. The hardest one for parts seems to be the 2010 RT. First year version and it had a number of 1-off parts that were never used again. It's taken us a bit longer to find some parts for this Spyder. But have always been able to.
Just as a side note. My opinion is that the 2010 RT and the 2013 RT were the 2 worst Spyders made. Though having said this, with a few upgrades, they are as good as any others. BRP just cut too many corners on these models. Luckily, they are corners easily, and not too expansively, corrected.
Freddy
Active member
Yes please, Ron.
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