My 2012 Spyder RT turns over once then resets

[timb12957]

I have a 2012 Spyder RT. It has sat for about a year. Now it turns over once, then everything resets.
I have charged the battery (a couple of times) and tried jumping it off with my car. Always does the same thing.
I have attached a video link. Any help appreciated.

 

[Albec]

To me, it looks like a possible connection issue.

Are ALL the power cable connections clean and tight?

 

[Peter Aawen]

How old is that battery?? From your video, I'd guess that if it's not what @Albec says ^, then it's a pretty good bet that your battery is dead. JUST 12 volts before putting it under load isn't enough juice for a Spyder! Check out the 'Similar Threads' listed below...

Get your battery load tested if you want, but even if 12 volts might be enough juice for other less power hungry vehicles, when it comes to our extremely power hungry Spyders, if the battery voltage ever drops below 12 volts under starting load, there's just not enough grunt to start all the computers & electronics as well as the engine! So given your video showing that it starts with a voltage that's only just above flat anyway, I'd think you'd likely save yourself some time & maybe even some $$ by just getting a new, good quality battery with at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity; charging it on a proper charger for at least 8 hours before installation (don't just assume the retailer/supplier has done it, do it yourself!); installing the battery & ensuring all the terminals and earth points are clean & tight connections onto bright metal (be wary of stripping the thread &/or a stripped captive nut in the main earth point to the spar under the seat on your 2012); then starting it and checking the charge system on the Spyder when it's running.

Good Luck

 

[timb12957]

Even if it is the battery, should it not start when jumping it off from my car battery?

 

[Peter Aawen]

Even if it is the battery, should it not start when jumping it off from my car battery?

I'm sure some could explain it better, and there is a chance your problem is something else, like a poor connection or an electronic failure somewhere else, but given the number of other Spyders with this same problem all sheeting back to the battery being bad and your video....

However, your question quoted above - it won't start if your bike battery has a completely dead cell or two - even tho your volt meter might say your Spyder battery has got 12 volts of power (altho ideally, it'd have better than 13 volts showing if it was truly in good condition!) it's likely just got no amperage in there! So when you connect your car battery, you're just draining that battery too, effectively like connecting it to a dead short, only not quite as drastically sudden due to there still bring some functioning cells in the Spyder battery, just not enough to carry the amps required, so you still don't have enough grunt to start the extremely power hungry Spyder.

 

[pegasus1300]

So Peter, if I understand you are you saying that with a bad battery in the circuit vs a low charge battery one of those booster packs is not going to start it either?

 

[Mrmikey]

You've got a bad battery or a bad connection, I'd vote for the battery. A fully charged battery with the surface charge drained off should be 12.8V minimum. Not to mention that one 1 second click of the starter should not drop the voltage.

 

[Mikey]

I would start with the battery, but while your there check and clean all your connections to and from your bike to battery, clean and tighten all points to the frame and battery! If that don't do it check the connection at the starter and solenoid also!

 

[Peter Aawen]

So Peter, if I understand you are you saying that with a bad battery in the circuit vs a low charge battery one of those booster packs is not going to start it either?

Effectively, yes!

When you connect two batteries (or a flattish battery and a fully charged jump pack) in order to jump start a vehicle, the pair effectively 'become' one 'bigger battery', but the voltage/amp capacity across both rapidly equalises down to something usually a bit above the voltage/amp capacity of the battery that started out with lowest level/state of charge. If your lower charge battery still has something in it, there's usually enough 'extra' juice in the paired combination to start the vehicle with the flatter battery; but if/when you've got a completely flat battery &/or one that has one or more dead cells in it, you're effectively connecting a good battery to a dead short, and that's not good for the better battery &/or either vehicle's charging & electrical system, and pretty much no matter what voltage shows from the remaining cells of the bad battery once it's connected to a jumping battery, a battery set-up either individually or as a jumped pair with a dead short in the mix still won't start your vehicle!

AND, if your 'bad battery' doesn't quite yet have any actual dead cells, just a cell or two (or maybe more) with a really low state of charge, you might find that it won't even accept a charge if you try to charge it up with a normal charger, tender, &/or maintainer, because the majority of chargers need there to be SOME voltage in the battery being charged in order to start the charging process. So unless you've got a charger that has a 'revive fully discharged battery' function, when you've connected up your completely flat battery properly and switch on your normal charger, it'll either reject the connection entirely and stop instantly; or it might show as charging momentarily and then either drop off or stop charging, possibly even revert to showing 'fully charged' immediately - but the battery still won't start zip!