My RT 2010 SE5 drive belt is kaput - any links to replace it?

[peterRT]

Hi all", went for a ride today and felt this clunk every time the wheels did x 1 revolution. Rode it home real slow and looked at the drive belt, noticed that it has a big lump on it on the inside. To put it simply, it is worn out now. Anyone know a link to youtube on how to change it because I will be doing it myself?

Regards RT Peter

 

[Bfromla]

Sorry no luck on replacement vids, plenty on belt alignment & rear tire replacement. Good idea go ahead & find a Krikit tool to measure belt tension when getting new one on. Maybe add belt tensioner if ever had vibration issues. Also suggest a laser alignment afterwards.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Where are you Peter?? There's quite a few OzSpyderRyders around the place now; surely there's someone relatively nearby who could help?? :dontknow:

There's a good BRP Service bloke in Naracoorte who I can put you in touch with; another in Lonsdale; Stu (who's a member here) runs a very good Spyder Service business in Unley; I'm in the Adelaide Hills near Mt Barker & have Spyder Ryding contacts all over the country (courtesy of 5 Spyder Musters! ); and one of the Modbury OzSpyderRyders is hosting a Shed Day on Sunday 5th... If you're anywhere near it'd be a great opportunity for everyone to see how it's done, and I'm sure we could find some way of getting it there/done.... Or maybe someone could come to you?? If you can take the rear wheel off, there's not really a heap more effort involved, less stuff to remove, & only a few things to check while you're in there!

Drop me a PM with your phone number & I'll give you a call to discuss. :thumbup:

 

[Isopedella]

If you raise rear you can work it off the pulleys. Pull the belt towards you and rotate the tyre. 3 or 4 turns and it works it way off.
Chock the front tyres and have in in neutral. No need to remove the rear wheel. Get a gauge and set up the tension for the new belt.

Found a video on removing the belt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTn6cR6q1Js

 

[UtahPete]

If you raise rear you can work it off the pulleys. Pull the belt towards you and rotate the tyre 3 or 4 turns and it works it way off. No need to remove the rear wheel. Get a gauge and set up the tension for the new belt. Found a video on removing the belt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTn6cR6q1Js

Now I just need a source for my belt (2014RTL)

Is this the right one?

Spyder 2014-2018 Spyder Rt Se6 F3 Drive Belt 705501304 New Oem https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-2014-...pyder+rt+se6+drive+belt,automotive,131&sr=1-1

 

[JayBros]

Yes, Pete, that's the one.

 

[UtahPete]

Yes, Pete, that's the one.

Thanks. Pricey little bugger...

 

[Isopedella]

I clicked on that link.


Spyder 2014-2018 Spyder Rt Se6 F3 Drive Belt 705501304 New Oem
Visit the Can-Am Store
5.0 out of 5 stars 2 ratings
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.

 

[UtahPete]

I clicked on that link.


Spyder 2014-2018 Spyder Rt Se6 F3 Drive Belt 705501304 New Oem
Visit the Can-Am Store
5.0 out of 5 stars 2 ratings
Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.

Weird...mine says 5 available
$339.99
FREE delivery Friday, June 3. Details
Deliver to Robert - Oakley 84055*
Only 5 left in stock - order soon.

 

[Isopedella]

Weird all right.
But I did not put in a location.



Edit.

It did pick up I am in N Z

 

[peterRT]

Hi all", I got it organized now the job to do is in the workshop Manual. Thanks to all who replied. It will give me something to do

Regards Peter

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi all", I got it organized now the job to do is in the workshop Manual. Thanks to all who replied. It will give me something to do

Regards Peter

Peter if you haven't already read about " Remove the rear shock bolt " after jacking up the Spyder, then this is how you will prevent having to TOUCH the belt adjusters. After changing your belt / tire etc., if you REMOVED that bolt first, you can just re-assemble and the belt will be EXACTLY where it was before you did any work ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Mikey]

I am thinking that when he changes the belt out to a new on there will be some belt adjusting to do, it should be tight once he installs a new one!! I am sure the old belts been tightened up, which would make a new one tighter than a bow string!

 

[peterRT]

Thanks all who posted here and this is a good website forum to find out how to do things on the Spyders. I use a Krikit tool when I put the new belt on to make sure the tension is at 160lbs, and I may have to do the belt alignment too,

Regards Peter

 

[Isopedella]

Surfing I found this. Belt alignment and tension.

I used 6 point sockets on the axle and popped a bit of silicone on the caps so they will stay in place and less likely to fall off. Insurance I guess as I had to get a replacement for my front inner on my new to me F3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_Ewxr7qwqo

 

[peterRT]

Hi all", and thanks for the info I will remove the rear shock bolt Mike so that may make it easier. I found X two teeth on the Spyder coming off a bit like when we were kids and we would get a loose tooth and shake it side to side and then pull it out. I believe this was just wear and tear and not something getting underneath the belt. I took picture of a tooth of belt that I took off, and I just pulled it off with pliers. The damage to the belt was or did happen over a period of time because I can see the wear marks on the bottom of the tooth

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks all who posted here and this is a good website forum to find out how to do things on the Spyders. I use a Krikit tool when I put the new belt on to make sure the tension is at 160lbs, and I may have to do the belt alignment too,

Regards Peter

Many here have decided that is the sweet spot ..... However this measurement is used if the tire " IS ON THE GROUND ", if the tire is OFF the ground the measurement is different. Sorry but I don't remember how much that is ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi all", and thanks for the info I will remove the rear shock bolt Mike so that may make it easier. I found X two teeth on the Spyder coming off a bit like when we were kids and we would get a loose tooth and shake it side to side and then pull it out. I believe this was just wear and tear and not something getting underneath the belt. I took picture of a tooth of belt that I took off, and I just pulled it off with pliers. The damage to the belt was or did happen over a period of time because I can see the wear marks on the bottom of the tooth

I can't see how that could occur if the belt is tensioned correctly ( ie. 160 lbs tire on ground ) and something didn't get on the belt. Qutie a few folks have reported mileages way over 100,000 mi. and no Wear or Damage ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[peterRT]

Hi again", well maybe something did get under the belt Mike. I don't know but it's done for whatever reason. Now i just got to fit the new belt and I ordered a krikit tool to measure the tension. I will check the tension before I take the belt off and let you guys know what the tension was

Regards Peter

 

[Eckhard]

However this measurement is used if the tire " IS ON THE GROUND ", if the tire is OFF the ground the measurement is different. Mike :thumbup:

Hi All. Just gotta add my 2 cents worth here.

The way I see it is if the rear of the bike is supported in such a way that the rear suspension is carrying the load, i.e. supported under the shock bolt or the swingarm, the tire can/will be off the ground but the swing arm will have the same angle, w.r.t the frame, resulting in the same belt tension as when the tire is supporting the load, i.e. On the ground.

Thanks for bearing with me. "bearing"