My SE 5 Joins the Club

[northramp]

Believe me folks I really do want to write this one...But after three months of reading about SE 5 issues I really thought mine would be immune..Sort of a self preservation thing .. But after my 600 mile service...driving home suddenly can t get it out of fourth gear ..
no limp home mode lights .. no warnings .. just a display of fouth gear .. and not able to travel over 3500RPM .

Add me to the GPS , spring and download group ..
Northramp

 

[Lamonster]

Bummer dude nojoke:banghead:

 

[Dudley]

Believe me folks I really do want to write this one...But after three months of reading about SE 5 issues I really thought mine would be immune..Sort of a self preservation thing .. But after my 600 mile service...driving home suddenly can t get it out of fourth gear ..
no limp home mode lights .. no warnings .. just a display of fouth gear .. and not able to travel over 3500RPM .

Add me to the GPS , spring and download group ..
Northramp

Just a curious question. At what RPMs do you shift gears? 3500 RPM in 4th gear is low. I travel many times in fourth gear going up 6% grades in our mountains, bucking a 15 to 20 MPH headwind, and I ride it at 5500 RPM in that time. Strange that it would act up after the 600 mile service. If you're shifting too soon, maybe try shifting each gear around 5000 to 5500 RPM. Just a thought.

 

[opticat]

Northramp, that's EXACTLY when my SE problems started-- after the 600 mile check. It was a "now and then" event at first, and rapidly became quite troublesome. The dealer did the fix (60 days in the shop) and it was good, get this, for another 600 miles! It's not sticking as bad as it was at its worst, but is still very annoying. Dealer says that there's nothing else that can be done, and to just ride it.

Good luck with yours!

And Dudley, I've revved mine to almost the red line in first and it would not shift! Very embarrassing.

 

[bone crusher]

Believe me folks I really do want to write this one...But after three months of reading about SE 5 issues I really thought mine would be immune..Sort of a self preservation thing .. But after my 600 mile service...driving home suddenly can t get it out of fourth gear ..
no limp home mode lights .. no warnings .. just a display of fouth gear .. and not able to travel over 3500RPM .

Add me to the GPS , spring and download group ..
Northramp

I've been asked not to 'bash' the SE5s...so I won't out of respect to all our buddies here who have one.

However, I will say that I am sorry to hear about this and I hope you get it resolved quickly...

Get the BEST warranty as the SE5 issues are what is driving up the cost...now, Scotty alluded to the fact that since the bikes are under factory warranty, no BEST claims have been made (except for towing)...however, BRP has to figure in the costs of repairs and ongoing issues with the bikes...

If you can get the BEST warranty for under 1000.00...I'd say to get it...piece of mind for 5 years and roadside assistance is nice!

 

[Dudley]

Northramp, that's EXACTLY when my SE problems started-- after the 600 mile check. It was a "now and then" event at first, and rapidly became quite troublesome. The dealer did the fix (60 days in the shop) and it was good, get this, for another 600 miles! It's not sticking as bad as it was at its worst, but is still very annoying. Dealer says that there's nothing else that can be done, and to just ride it.

Good luck with yours!

And Dudley, I've revved mine to almost the red line in first and it would not shift! Very embarrassing.

I worked for a Honda Motorcycle dealership in the early 80s. If our service department manager had told that to a customer, he would have been looking for another job. There is no such thing as "there is nothing else that can be done, just ride it". I am sorry you have to deal with them.

 

[opticat]

Thanks, Dudley. I appreciate your comment. One other thing that no one has mentioned, and that I have experienced several times, is that the throttle "blipper" sometimes quits entirely. This causes an abrupt downshift either when one downshifts manually or lets the computer downshift. The Spyder lurches into a lower gear quite hard, as can be imagined when one does not rev the engine a bit prior to releasing a clutch when selecting a lower gear. As with the "sticking in gear" problem, all the rider has to do is stop, turn the key off, allow the Spyder to reset (usually in 30 to 45 seconds), restart, and sometimes you are good to go again!

Maybe this is the phenomenon that has been described by others with SEs as a "hard downshift"?

 

[baldev]

I worked for a Honda Motorcycle dealership in the early 80s. If our service department manager had told that to a customer, he would have been looking for another job. There is no such thing as "there is nothing else that can be done, just ride it". I am sorry you have to deal with them.

I totally agree. The grievances one has to suffer after spending $16-$19K on a bike is totally not acceptable. I am giving up ridin the SE and am making a claim against BRP and dealership. Yes I know they are huge and have tons of money, so have I and a good atty would get this seen to. All I want is my money back, nothing more nothing less.

Please keep blaming me for suing them OR should I just shut up and suffer the consequences like a good American would/Should!!!

You guys on this forum are the best I have met.

 

[bone crusher]

I totally agree. The grievances one has to suffer after spending $16-$19K on a bike is totally not acceptable. I am giving up ridin the SE and am making a claim against BRP and dealership. Yes I know they are huge and have tons of money, so have I and a good atty would get this seen to. All I want is my money back, nothing more nothing less.

Please keep blaming me for suing them OR should I just shut up and suffer the consequences like a good American would/Should!!!

You guys on this forum are the best I have met.

You might be better off getting a class action suit...find all the people with problems that are not being resolved...power in numbers is good...BRP won't want to fight you...better to fix all the problems pronto or settle...the bad press would hurt them more than anything...other dealerships would likely take better care of you...sounds like you have a bum deal so far...that stinks!

 

[Dudley]

I totally agree. The grievances one has to suffer after spending $16-$19K on a bike is totally not acceptable. I am giving up ridin the SE and am making a claim against BRP and dealership. Yes I know they are huge and have tons of money, so have I and a good atty would get this seen to. All I want is my money back, nothing more nothing less.

Please keep blaming me for suing them OR should I just shut up and suffer the consequences like a good American would/Should!!!

You guys on this forum are the best I have met.

Is there another dealer you can go to and talk with? Even if you drive your car over and talk with the service manager and explain your situation. Your's is not a case that can't be resolved. You just need to find someone willing to resolve it for you. There are thousands riding Spyders that are very happy with their purchase. You can be one also.

 

[effgjamis]

Northramp, that's EXACTLY when my SE problems started-- after the 600 mile check. It was a "now and then" event at first, and rapidly became quite troublesome. The dealer did the fix (60 days in the shop) and it was good, get this, for another 600 miles! It's not sticking as bad as it was at its worst, but is still very annoying. Dealer says that there's nothing else that can be done, and to just ride it.

Good luck with yours!

And Dudley, I've revved mine to almost the red line in first and it would not shift! Very embarrassing.

Get it in writting... and then?????

 

[Biker]

Just a curious question. At what RPMs do you shift gears? 3500 RPM in 4th gear is low. I travel many times in fourth gear going up 6% grades in our mountains, bucking a 15 to 20 MPH headwind, and I ride it at 5500 RPM in that time. Strange that it would act up after the 600 mile service. If you're shifting too soon, maybe try shifting each gear around 5000 to 5500 RPM. Just a thought.

I too find it hard to get used to these high RPM's coming off of a Big Twin Harley. So you say we should be running the gears at a much higher RPM before shifting? :dontknow:

 

[Dudley]

I too find it hard to get used to these high RPM's coming off of a Big Twin Harley. So you say we should be running the gears at a much higher RPM before shifting? :dontknow:

I have never had a Harley, but all my previous bikes have been low RPM bikes, so the Spyder took a little getting used to. I shift over 4000 rpm in all gears until 5th, then I shift about 5000. I don't race to get to these RPMs, just a steady climb. The engine struggles a lot less running over 4000 in any gear. I try not to run less than 4500 before I downshift to a lower gear. I don't constantly monitor the tachometer, but years of riding has kind of given me a feel for when the engine needs help to maintain a good power range. THe Rotax is a high RPM engine and works more efficiently that way.

 

[northramp]

Thanks all for your replies.

Let me first clear up a couple of things from my orginal post.

I don t shift at 3500 RPM. My all my shifting occurs in the 5000rpm range. The 3500RPM comment is what I could not accelerate over after this issue of the bike not coming out of 4 th gear ..the rotax would start missing and breaking up .

There were no forwarning about this event . In fact this machine has performed flawlessly for me for the first 3 months (got in in Jan. )and 600 miles.

Then suddenly on shifting from 4th to 5 th coming home from deale rit was like there was no paddle shifter connecting .
Stayed in fourth which was displayed all the way back to the dealer ,I didn t dare shut it off although I do have the BEST warrenty,for towing.
I just don t like sitting by the side of the road.

When i got it back there and shut it off ; after a restart it was very loudly Clunking in all gears changes .. Hence diagnosis of gear position switch, return spring and download.

So i m in withdrawl looking at my box of fider tipz, triple play, double play , mudflaps, and turn signal led s and hoping my ride comes back soon and is solved.

Northramp
:banghead:

 

[bone crusher]

Thanks all for your replies.

Let me first clear up a couple of things from my orginal post.

I don t shift at 3500 RPM. My all my shifting occurs in the 5000rpm range. The 3500RPM comment is what I could not accelerate over after this issue of the bike not coming out of 4 th gear ..the rotax would start missing and breaking up .

There were no forwarning about this event . In fact this machine has performed flawlessly for me for the first 3 months (got in in Jan. )and 600 miles.

Then suddenly on shifting from 4th to 5 th coming home from deale rit was like there was no paddle shifter connecting .
Stayed in fourth which was displayed all the way back to the dealer ,I didn t dare shut it off although I do have the BEST warrenty,for towing.
I just don t like sitting by the side of the road.

When i got it back there and shut it off ; after a restart it was very loudly Clunking in all gears changes .. Hence diagnosis of gear position switch, return spring and download.

So i m in withdrawl looking at my box of fider tipz, triple play, double play , mudflaps, and turn signal led s and hoping my ride comes back soon and is solved.

Northramp
:banghead:

Hope you're on the road again soon! :2thumbs:

 

[bjt]

I have never had a Harley, but all my previous bikes have been low RPM bikes, so the Spyder took a little getting used to. I shift over 4000 rpm in all gears until 5th, then I shift about 5000. I don't race to get to these RPMs, just a steady climb. The engine struggles a lot less running over 4000 in any gear. I try not to run less than 4500 before I downshift to a lower gear. I don't constantly monitor the tachometer, but years of riding has kind of given me a feel for when the engine needs help to maintain a good power range. THe Rotax is a high RPM engine and works more efficiently that way.

Same here. I mostly shift by ear. The past week I tried to pay attention to the RPMs when I thought the Spyder sounded like I should be shifting and, in easy riding, I shift at around 4,000 RPMs. If I'm accelerating harder, the shift RPMs gets increased.

 

[0228lisa]

I have never had a Harley, but all my previous bikes have been low RPM bikes, so the Spyder took a little getting used to. I shift over 4000 rpm in all gears until 5th, then I shift about 5000. I don't race to get to these RPMs, just a steady climb. The engine struggles a lot less running over 4000 in any gear. I try not to run less than 4500 before I downshift to a lower gear. I don't constantly monitor the tachometer, but years of riding has kind of given me a feel for when the engine needs help to maintain a good power range. THe Rotax is a high RPM engine and works more efficiently that way.

The engine sounds like it's straining if you wait until the higher RPM's to shift. :shocked:

 

[Dudley]

I have never had a Harley, but all my previous bikes have been low RPM bikes, so the Spyder took a little getting used to. I shift over 4000 rpm in all gears until 5th, then I shift about 5000. I don't race to get to these RPMs, just a steady climb. The engine struggles a lot less running over 4000 in any gear. I try not to run less than 4500 before I downshift to a lower gear. I don't constantly monitor the tachometer, but years of riding has kind of given me a feel for when the engine needs help to maintain a good power range. THe Rotax is a high RPM engine and works more efficiently that way.

I need to check myself on this one. When riding in city traffic, the rpm factor does not apply. I don't drive 30 mph with the tach in the 4000 range. I was refering to moving out to cruising speed and driving open road. But I do try not to let the engine struggle in too high a gear in city traffic. That's when the engine's sound is used more to determine a good gear to be in. Once learned it's easy.