• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Need HELP?! My Spyder is running Hot at High Speeds?

tjranch9

Member
I need help figuring out what's going on.
When I first got the bike (a 2016 F3L), I had a problem with it running hot and it was low
on coolant. Fast forward to yesterday coming back from Daytona. Cruising along at 80 with
cruise on and all of a sudden it slowed down, no cruise or power. The temp gauge read one notch
down from the top. The bike slowed down and I was able to do about 60 - 65 mph.
After it cooled down a little, everything was ok again. This morning, I checked the coolant cold and
it's right on the cool mark...

Any help will be appreciated.
 
Check and be sure the radiators are not plugged up full of bugs or some kind of bloom from the air.

Check the direction of the fans changing as it should.

Possible in an older radiator the cores inside the radiator could be partially blocked. You can't see that from the outside. A shop that specializes in radiator can boil the inside passages out and clear them.

Make sure none of the hoses are pinched, kinked, or collapsed. Thermostat could be mallfunctioning or not opening completely.

Lots of things it could be. You just have to eliminate the possibilities one at the time.
 
Last edited:
The Bike only has 13000 miles on it. It has a bug screen in front of the rad.
This only happens at high extended speeds, other wise, it's nominal.
You did say coming back from Daytona, and Florida has bugs like you wouldn't believe. Little tiny ones that will go right through screens. Big ones that splatter all over the front end. Got plenty of small blooms and pollen too. It collects on everything this time of year. Even if you have screens, you should still check the radiator for plugged fins. I live in Florida all the time. This is the time of year when little mud wasps plug up narrow spaces with wet mud that dries like cement and dog fennel blooms blows with the wind and gets in everything.
 
The Bike only has 13000 miles on it. It has a bug screen in front of the rad.
This only happens at high extended speeds, other wise, it's nominal.
So, the bug screen clogs up with bugs instead of the radiators. Same effect. Suggestion would be to remove the screen, thoroughly clean it, inspect and clean the radiators, and go out and do a test drive. See what's what then. If still hot, do a test without the screen. A screen cuts down on airflow even if it's clean, especially with the F3 design. It all depends on the screen design. Of course, doing coolant system required maintenance is never a bad idea, either. But, ethylene glycol doesn't wear out. It does, however, lose its corrosion inhibiting ability over time due to depletion of the additives. Maybe not a root cause of your problem, but the maintenance is worth doing if it is overdue.

The other thing to double check is that the coolant tank cap got put on correctly and competlety when you added coolant that last time. It's not exactly human friendly to get back in there with a hand. Make sure both tabs on the cap are engaged to the tank and you tightened it up all the way to the stop, and not just to where it appeared to get tight.
 
Last edited:
What Gwolf said. Under the right circumstances, your radiators can clog in a very short time. Best to take the screens off and blow them out from the backside. Great Fun That!~
 
Back
Top