• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

No fuel pressure but fuel is flowing from tank - 2013 RS won't start, any help?

Junior2u

New member
No fuel pressure but fuel is flowing from tank. Also see movement in tank. 2013 Spyder Rs the regulator is at throttle body did the pinch test still no movement on gauge. Won’t start any help greatly appreciated.
 
No fuel pressure but fuel is flowing from tank. Also see movement in tank. 2013 Spyder Rs the regulator is at throttle body did the pinch test still no movement on gauge. Won’t start any help greatly appreciated.
Hey Junior. Stop me if this is already sorted out. I can’t recall ever hearing about a fuel pressure regulator failure on a 998 system, and maybe one fuel pump. But, anything can happen. So, just wondering how long this machine sat since it was last running, and is this your machine or are you working on it for someone. Usually, fuel pressure is not the first thing on the checklist for a no-start situation. What have you already looked at before this.

But, just to get back to basics. And please don’t take it personal if you’ve already covered it all: Fresh fuel, fuel system cleaner won’t hurt, fully charged battery, all fuses tested (not just looked at). The fuel pressure gauge needs to be “T’d” into the line between the fuel pump and the fuel filter. I suppose you can remove the fuel filter and place the T in its place. Under the circumstances, though, I think I’d want to leave the filter installed. But, it has to go in the pressure hose, between the pump and filter. The other hose to the fuel pump is the return line. It never has pressure in the 998 system. The fuel filter, the silver metallic thing is there behind the charcoal canister on the right side of the bike. The fuel pump only runs for three seconds when the engine isn’t running. It’s a timer from the ECM. It is easy to hear the pump running.

So, let’s try it like this. First, be sure that the gauge is hooked up in the correct section of fuel line. Then, put the kill switch to STOP. Then turn on the key, let the boot up process finish, and acknowledge the safety card screen with the Mode button. Even if the screen doesn’t appear, press the Mode button anyway. Get your head down by the fuel tank and position the gauge where you can see it, reach up and flip the kill switch to RUN. You should hear the pump run and hopefully see pressure on the gauge. You have three seconds-ish and then the pump will shut off. What do you got?

Screenshot 2026-04-22 at 7.39.36 AM.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello snowbelt. I have tried the pressure test but going to do it again to see. Will also check all the fuse again. It’s my personal bike last time it ran was about a year ago. Just stop never came back on. Replaced vacuum hoses, spark plugs, oxygen sensor, air filter (K&N) Also added fresh fuel(Nada). Fuel pump turns on and fuel flows from filter. Unless I’m doing something wrong, the times I’ve checked the gauge I’m getting 0 pressure on gauge. Can I connect the gauge straight from tank and if I can how much psi should I see more or less. Thx.

Forgot to mention canisterectomy done. Also tried starter fluid and she turned on.
 
So, it tried to run with the starter fluid? Then good, that shows you have spark. To get any meaningful pressure reading on the gauge, install the "T" fitting for the gauge in between the fuel pump and the fuel filter, with the rest of the fuel system connected as normal. Normal pressure should be between 45 and 50 PSI. You don't want to run the pump dead headed into just the gauge. If the pump is good, that would result in a very high pressure spike. While you're in there, give it a new fuel filter, too. You could very well have a bad fuel pump. Even though it's running, it's not pumping. Depends how gummy things got in the tank while it was sitting. But remember, it only runs for 3 seconds. then turns off, unless you crank and start the engine. Replacement parts for the left side fuel rail and pressure regulator would be tough to find, I think...new ones, anyway. But, a fuel pump issue is more probable. Oh, while you're looking at the pressure regulator, that little metal arm that sticks out on the right side of it, is a port for a pressure reference. It should be open to atmosphere. There is a tiny screen filter on the end of it. Make sure that it isn't covered or clogged.
 
Last edited:
Tried both ways dead head test. As well as t between fuel line and filter. Yet still no movement on gauge. Pump is running ( 3 seconds) and regulator screen is clean and clear.
 
Tried both ways dead head test. As well as t between fuel line and filter. Yet still no movement on gauge. Pump is running (3 seconds) and regulator screen is clean and clear.

IMG_4617.jpeg - IMG_4616.jpeg - IMG_4618.jpeg

Maybe your gauge tester is defective!

Purchased brand new thought the same thing, blew air from compressor works fine
 
Seeing bubbles in tank. Is it possibly a split hose on pump assembly. Just enough to seep gas back into tank and not build up pressure, but still enough to sent some through filter?
 
Well, you’ve gotten this far. I guess I’d pull the pump. Yeah, there’s hoses from the pump up to the top ports and a suction screen. And you know that the motor is running. Possibly can be saved if the suction screen is clogged, or another repair can be made. New OEM part is 600 bucks, unfortunately.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top