3wheeldemon
New member
I am very interested Tom, I gave up on waiting for the back-ordered cables and I am going to do it myself. I will like to reproduce the factory setup as much as I can.
Thanks!
3WD
Thanks!
3WD
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Official BRP Coil Pack fix
- Thread starter Tripod
- Start date
Tom in NM
New member
Got the pictures . . . .
3WD, here is what the official Se5 Ground Wire Warranty wiring it looks like.
Picture 1 is a rough general drawing of the set up.
Two wires coming from one connector.
Connectors on all ends.
The wire is about 1/8 of an inch and black. The Part Tag reads, BRP 710002091 jun REV 0 .
The kit came with 3 plastic ties.
There might have been some washers in the kit.
I didn't see any bolts or nuts, but the bolts are stamped TUZ 8.8 .
Ground 1 (G1) wire run is 6" from tip of connector to tip of connector.
Ground 2 (G2) wire run is 27.5" from tip of connector to tip of conncector.
G2 was tied down at 6" (the tie is just for G2, not both as drawing shows)
G2 was tied to the flex-conduit at the frame bar at 12"
G2 was tied to flex-conduit at 19.5"
See the other pictures for where wires were connected and tied off.
Measurements are close, but not exact.
Picture 2 shows the left side and oil tank.
Bottom red circle shows connection to oil tank & frame.
2nd red circle (up) shows G1 connection point.
3rd red circle (up) shows G2 run and tie down.
4th red circle (up) shows G2 run under frame bar and tie to flex-conduit.
Picture 3 shows the final connection of G2 in the center of the picture.
1st red circle (bottom left) shows G2 1st tie down at 6" just above oil tank.
2nd red circle (up) shows G2 run under the frame bar and tie down to flex-conduit. It is not tied to the frame bar, just the conduit.
3rd red circle - moving towards the pictures upper left corner - shows the run of G2 to its tie down on flex-conduit at around 19.5". From there, you might be able to see it drop down and go behind three different wire bundles to the final connection point.
4th red circle - center of the picture - shows the G2 frame termination point at 27.5" - very close to where the steering shaft goes through the frame.
Picture 4 shows a closer look at G2 terminating on the frame. There are already two (I think) other wires grounded there.
If I were doing it, I would also plan on taking off the Y "yoke" panel running from the seat to the left and right sides of the trunk - to get at the G2 termination point. Probably can be done without it, but it will be tight.
I don't know the gauge of the wire.
I don't know if you need to disconnect the battery when doing this. Since they are ground wires, I would not think so, but I would ask the experts just to make sure.
Tom
3WD, here is what the official Se5 Ground Wire Warranty wiring it looks like.
Picture 1 is a rough general drawing of the set up.
Two wires coming from one connector.
Connectors on all ends.
The wire is about 1/8 of an inch and black. The Part Tag reads, BRP 710002091 jun REV 0 .
The kit came with 3 plastic ties.
There might have been some washers in the kit.
I didn't see any bolts or nuts, but the bolts are stamped TUZ 8.8 .
Ground 1 (G1) wire run is 6" from tip of connector to tip of connector.
Ground 2 (G2) wire run is 27.5" from tip of connector to tip of conncector.
G2 was tied down at 6" (the tie is just for G2, not both as drawing shows)
G2 was tied to the flex-conduit at the frame bar at 12"
G2 was tied to flex-conduit at 19.5"
See the other pictures for where wires were connected and tied off.
Measurements are close, but not exact.
Picture 2 shows the left side and oil tank.
Bottom red circle shows connection to oil tank & frame.
2nd red circle (up) shows G1 connection point.
3rd red circle (up) shows G2 run and tie down.
4th red circle (up) shows G2 run under frame bar and tie to flex-conduit.
Picture 3 shows the final connection of G2 in the center of the picture.
1st red circle (bottom left) shows G2 1st tie down at 6" just above oil tank.
2nd red circle (up) shows G2 run under the frame bar and tie down to flex-conduit. It is not tied to the frame bar, just the conduit.
3rd red circle - moving towards the pictures upper left corner - shows the run of G2 to its tie down on flex-conduit at around 19.5". From there, you might be able to see it drop down and go behind three different wire bundles to the final connection point.
4th red circle - center of the picture - shows the G2 frame termination point at 27.5" - very close to where the steering shaft goes through the frame.
Picture 4 shows a closer look at G2 terminating on the frame. There are already two (I think) other wires grounded there.
If I were doing it, I would also plan on taking off the Y "yoke" panel running from the seat to the left and right sides of the trunk - to get at the G2 termination point. Probably can be done without it, but it will be tight.
I don't know the gauge of the wire.
I don't know if you need to disconnect the battery when doing this. Since they are ground wires, I would not think so, but I would ask the experts just to make sure.
Tom
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3wheeldemon
New member
This is excellent Tom!:thumbup:. I think a lot of Spyderlovers will benefit form this post. Thank you for taking the time.:clap:
3WD
krb1945
New member
There is another ground fix...
August 12, I was told by the spyder dealer in Lake City FL there is now another spyder ground wire fix. He said it was a wire shield on one of the transmission grounds on the SE5. Unfortunately I did not get to see it because they didn't have the part. It was enroute from Tifton Georgia.
This dealer is pretty good except when it comes to parts or recalled items. I made an appointment for the six hundred mile service on the SE5 and software upgrade on the SE5 and the SM5. These appointments were made more than a week in advance. Got there they only thing they could do was the software updates. They did not have any recall kit parts, no oil filters, no HCM filters, no copper seal washers and no "O" rings. And they did not tell me this until almost 2pm and my SO and I had gotten there a 9:10 am. I asked them why they did not tell me prior to the appointment so I could bring the parts with me. I have every part they needed in my inventory cabinet. Yup... they have my phone number right in their computer right in the appointment.
Sure doesn't give you a warm and fuzzy feeling when it comes to service.
August 12, I was told by the spyder dealer in Lake City FL there is now another spyder ground wire fix. He said it was a wire shield on one of the transmission grounds on the SE5. Unfortunately I did not get to see it because they didn't have the part. It was enroute from Tifton Georgia.
This dealer is pretty good except when it comes to parts or recalled items. I made an appointment for the six hundred mile service on the SE5 and software upgrade on the SE5 and the SM5. These appointments were made more than a week in advance. Got there they only thing they could do was the software updates. They did not have any recall kit parts, no oil filters, no HCM filters, no copper seal washers and no "O" rings. And they did not tell me this until almost 2pm and my SO and I had gotten there a 9:10 am. I asked them why they did not tell me prior to the appointment so I could bring the parts with me. I have every part they needed in my inventory cabinet. Yup... they have my phone number right in their computer right in the appointment.
Sure doesn't give you a warm and fuzzy feeling when it comes to service.
Pilo
New member
Why two ground wires...?
I did my home-made coil fix yesterday, only from the coil mount bolt to the oil radiator mount bolt (G1).
Rode my SE5 today and it seems to shift a little better now, and no sticking in reverse or 1st, although it might be somewhat early to declare the fix a success...
My title question still stands: Why two ground wires...? :dontknow:
If I am not mistaken, somebody in one the forums explained this in layman's terms, but can't find it.
Cheers.
I did my home-made coil fix yesterday, only from the coil mount bolt to the oil radiator mount bolt (G1).
Rode my SE5 today and it seems to shift a little better now, and no sticking in reverse or 1st, although it might be somewhat early to declare the fix a success...
My title question still stands: Why two ground wires...? :dontknow:
If I am not mistaken, somebody in one the forums explained this in layman's terms, but can't find it.
Cheers.
3wheeldemon
New member
it was BJT post #7 from this thread:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=129566#post129566
I also recommend you see post #22 of this one to see the "official" setup:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=132155#post132155
PS: Getting any cooler in Maracaibo (I mean below 100F)?
Saludos!
3WD
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You are still not well grounded. The oil cooler attaches to the oil tank mount, just like the coil itself. The oil tank is rubber mounted. You need to add the long wire to the frame to get a good ground.I did my home-made coil fix yesterday, only from the coil mount bolt to the oil radiator mount bolt (G1).
Rode my SE5 today and it seems to shift a little better now, and no sticking in reverse or 1st, although it might be somewhat early to declare the fix a success...
My title question still stands: Why two ground wires...? :dontknow:
If I am not mistaken, somebody in one the forums explained this in layman's terms, but can't find it.
Cheers.
Pilo
New member
Hey 3WD:
Thanks for the reminders. I'll install the longer ground wire soon and then see if things improve.
Getting any cooler in Maracaibo in mid-August...? You had to be kidding me...
You know how it gets... Even in December, when locals refer to the 'hielitos' (winter ice), temps still may go from 85 to 100°F...
Saludos, Pilo
P.S.: Never got another e-mail from you. Did you get my answer to your first one?
3wheeldemon
New member
I just sent you an e-mail. Please let me know if you need something, it has to be hard having the only Spyder in "Chavezland"
3WD
Pilo
New member
Another ground wire, but shorter...
Scotty:
Yesterday night, after removing all the side-forward tupperware in my SE5 and looking at the main ground lug..., I had second thoughts.
But then, when I finally managed to slip my hand behind the frame member to verify if the lug-nut was tack welded (it wasn't...) :yikes: I decided not to risk losing time, knuckles' skin, and perhaps the even nut, by trying to hold it with some kind of tool small enough to fit in that recessed space.
After verifying the location of the rubber 'grommet', I chose the coils' plate mounting-bolt located directly above them. With a small wire brush I removed a little bit of paint from the back of the mounting bracket plate (which is welded to a tubular frame member) and installed a much shorter ground wire.
Started the SE5 and reversed it out of my garage for a test. No sticking in reverse, no fiddling, no 'E' reading on the dash. Just went into 1st. at the first jab of the paddle.
I'll will ride and test it today more throughly and will report back if any snafus occurs.
Like Lamonster said once: 'ground is ground..., right?'
Saludos, Pilo
Scotty:
Yesterday night, after removing all the side-forward tupperware in my SE5 and looking at the main ground lug..., I had second thoughts.
But then, when I finally managed to slip my hand behind the frame member to verify if the lug-nut was tack welded (it wasn't...) :yikes: I decided not to risk losing time, knuckles' skin, and perhaps the even nut, by trying to hold it with some kind of tool small enough to fit in that recessed space.
After verifying the location of the rubber 'grommet', I chose the coils' plate mounting-bolt located directly above them. With a small wire brush I removed a little bit of paint from the back of the mounting bracket plate (which is welded to a tubular frame member) and installed a much shorter ground wire.
Started the SE5 and reversed it out of my garage for a test. No sticking in reverse, no fiddling, no 'E' reading on the dash. Just went into 1st. at the first jab of the paddle.
I'll will ride and test it today more throughly and will report back if any snafus occurs.
Like Lamonster said once: 'ground is ground..., right?'
Saludos, Pilo
bjt
Very Helpful Member
... Like Lamonster said once: 'ground is ground..., right?'
Saludos, Pilo
For the most part but you can run into trouble with having multiple ground points. Sufficient resistance between multiple "grounds" can cause problems. In general, it's best to have one common ground. You can't hardly go wrong with one ground.
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