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PCV acting crazy...

The green Bosch device is the Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAPS). Make sure you have all that hooked back up correctly again.

Here's what mine looks like...

photo.jpg
 
That'd do it! You can see the nipple on the MAP sensor not connected.

Now the fun can begin!
 
CRAP, CRAP, CRAP!!!!........My map sensor is not hooked up to the hose!!!!!! :banghead::banghead:

I unscrewed the green BOSCH for the picture, but that hose was never hooked to it!!!! I must have knocked it a loose last weekend!

That's got to be the fix!! :thumbup:
 
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Autotune now works!!! I just did my first tune and WOW.,.,..what a difference!!! She'll burn rubber for 50 ft on take off!! She never did that before. She would just be lazy off the line, now she takes off with a aggression! Huuuuuugggeee difference, and that's just 10 minutes of tuning.
 
I think she's tuned out...

I think she is pretty much tuned out (for summer riding). Autotune is making very minor adjustments now...a 1 or -1 here or there in random spots I don't normally care about. So I guess I can disconnect now and wait for the winter season when the air is different...

Has anyone figured out how to get the spyder more responsive in the "rolling starts"? I thought I could tune it out, and I did some, but it looks like it's a clutch issue....

The dead start tune is awesome though. I could not burn out the tires before.
 
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I haven't... but there is a software "Accel pump" feature in the power commander which is supposed to work like an accel pump on a carb motor.

But I haven't successfully figured out what all the parameters are.
 
I haven't... but there is a software "Accel pump" feature in the power commander which is supposed to work like an accel pump on a carb motor.

But I haven't successfully figured out what all the parameters are.

I was reading an old thread about that from a year ago. I think is was your thread actually....Looks like this is still an issue.

There is one thing I wish different about the spyder and it's that lazy rolling start. If we or can am could fix that, the spyder would be spot on perfection.

Can Am....if you ever read this thread....fix that lazy area one day for a future spyder lover. :thumbup:
 
Are you talking about a rolling start at lower rpms or higher? It's pretty responsive at higher rpms.

Keep it over 5k minimum and it should snap to. If not then you might have other issues, intake leak, bad map?

What did you set your AFR's to on the autotune table?
 
Are you talking about a rolling start at lower rpms or higher? It's pretty responsive at higher rpms.

Keep it over 5k minimum and it should snap to. If not then you might have other issues, intake leak, bad map?

What did you set your AFR's to on the autotune table?


The lower rpms. I've read that the spyder clutch does not like low rpms, and I understand that. It's just that when taking off in 1st gear, you have to go through the lower rpms to get to the higher ones, and build speed which ends up defeating the purpose of aggressive takeoffs, because of the wait time...

I set A/F to 13.2. I'm not a long distance traveler. I don't care about fuel mileage. I just want performance. I want pure sport and power all the way through.
 
Well the o2 optimizer is "optimizing" for 13.6 in the closed loop area. Which is where you're at for lower rpms and throttle... and then when you crack it open it moves into the map where you're shooting for 13.2.

Try leaning it out a bit at the lower rpm x high throttle and then taper towards 13.2 from there til Redline

It might be too rich at that point. Too Rich feels just like Too Lean = less power/bog down.

I had a noticeable power dropoff as it transitioned from closed to open loop at lower rpms and that helped me quite a bit.

But, I'm currently running a leaner map (autotuned to 13.8 tapering to 13.4 at high rpm/throttle)
 
Well the o2 optimizer is "optimizing" for 13.6 in the closed loop area. Which is where you're at for lower rpms and throttle... and then when you crack it open it moves into the map where you're shooting for 13.2.

Try leaning it out a bit at the lower rpm x high throttle and then taper towards 13.2 from there til Redline

It might be too rich at that point. Too Rich feels just like Too Lean = less power/bog down.

I had a noticeable power dropoff as it transitioned from closed to open loop at lower rpms and that helped me quite a bit.

But, I'm currently running a leaner map (autotuned to 13.8 tapering to 13.4 at high rpm/throttle)

Ok, I'll try that. I'll lean out the lower rpms and see if she bogs a little less. I know I won't get her like I want it. But every little bit counts...
 
Inch by inch, you can tune out the laziness....

Well, today I decided to spend 3 hours of autotuning totally focusing on 100% throttle and nothing else. I wanted to push it to see if I could tune out that laggy spot from a rolling start. The sloppy spot is 2750-3750 rpms, so that's what I focused on. Well, it was a grind, but inch by inch by inch by inch, the autotune kept treating. It would only add 1-2 points of trim on each session, but it kept adding every time. So I decided to run it and accepting trims until it stopped adding to that area....

End result.....a TON of fuel (40%) in the 2750-3750 zone, much more than every other rpm in the 100% throttle column. In fact, when skimming down the column, you'll see big numbers like 36, 40, 27, up to 3750, then the numbers would drop dramatically to (-) numbers after the 4000's. So before 4000, she's starving for fuel, and then after 4000 she doesn't need much and needs backing off. This must be the clutch style causing the large difference in fuel.

Just by looking at the trim value disparity, you would think the bike would run sloppy......NO....she takes off MUCH better. About 80% better. May not be perfect, but it's a LOT more responsive than before the tuning.
 
Yeah I've noticed that with a zero map it runs very lean under load in the lower rpms when you jump on it. I've seen AFR's like 21. The stock ecu map is just plain mean to this motor. (with just a Hindle)

I had no idea it was THAT lean tho.

What's your target AFR at 100%? still 13.2?

Any chance you could send me your map? I'd like to look at it.

Now you just have to do that at 40% and 60% and 80%... a little harder to do consistently.

Maybe it has reached the max duty cycle of the injectors and it just keeps asking for more and more indefinitely. Maybe it's a fuel pressure problem! Evoluzione had a fuel pressure modifier and ran it upwards of 60psi (Stock is 51psi I believe, so 5-6% more when using their race air intake)

Ok, I need to stop now before I start ordering more parts.
 
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Yeah I've noticed that with a zero map it runs very lean under load in the lower rpms when you jump on it. I've seen AFR's like 21. The stock ecu map is just plain mean to this motor. (with just a Hindle)

I had no idea it was THAT lean tho.

What's your target AFR at 100%? still 13.2?

Any chance you could send me your map? I'd like to look at it.

Now you just have to do that at 40% and 60% and 80%... a little harder to do consistently.

Maybe it has reached the max duty cycle of the injectors and it just keeps asking for more and more indefinitely. Maybe it's a fuel pressure problem! Evoluzione had a fuel pressure modifier and ran it upwards of 60psi (Stock is 51psi I believe, so 5-6% more when using their race air intake)

Ok, I need to stop now before I start ordering more parts.

My map is on 13.2. I don't care about gas mileage. I want max performance.

I've done the 40, 60, and 80 areas also. They are not tuned to the max though, just close enough in case I ride in those areas, plus I don't need 13.2 a/f in those areas either. Just need it "safe" there. And I think I achieved that, looking at other maps similar to my setup.

Tell me how to post my map....
 
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