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Questions about RT amperage output

Andy Cserny

New member
Hi,
I am new to the board and not yet a Spyder owner, but seriously considering it. My first question is about the total amps output of the Spyder magneto, but most specifically how many discretionary amps are available for aftermarket use such as total Gerbing outfits [ jacket liners, pant liners, G3 gloves and boot liners for rider and corider]. From my research so far I have gathered that the Spyder, even though producing what seems like adequate amount of watts, uses up a lot of the amps produced and there is insufficient amps left over for add ons such as the heated clothing, extra driving lights and heated seats. Currently I ride an 1800 Gold Wing and have had no problem with the above heated gear and aftermarket horns, driving lights, fog lights, lights for the trailer, CB radio transmission ,gps and radar detector. I have no bling lights and dont plan to add any.

Another concern is the availability and efficiency of a CB radio for the Spyder and does anyone make a plug and play hookup so that I can talk to the corider, hear my iPod, CB radio, radar detector and hear the voice commands of my GPS.
Thanks for any responses.
Andy:dontknow:
 
I think Roger has looked into more than anyone here. The DPS is the biggest draw on the system, I can see it pull my volt meter down a volt when I'm working it in the twisties. Cruising down the highway there should be no issue with power but I would turn off the foglights just to give you some wiggle room and if you're just putting around you're not getting much charge because it is a magneto and needs rpm to do it's job.
 
amps

Thanks to everyone who answered and yes Mr Orange, the nuclear generator on the GW puts out one KW:gaah:according to the shop manual.
Andy
 
I am running electric liner, gloves and socks and I have 2 - 55 watt driving lights added to the mix with no problmes. To monitor a bit I bought a volt meter that plugs into my on dash power outlet (this is powered from a relay that is triggered when the Spyder is running so it will read a bit lower than taken right off the battery).

With no accessories running 14.4 volts average
With all heated gear set to medium high: 14.3
With Fog lights and driving lighs on as well 13.7 Volts (right now I am switching my driving lights on and off with the factory fog lights via relay)'

From what I remember a fully charged battery, stand a lone, will read 12.6 volts (after it has sat for an hour or so after charging. As long as I see the volts up near 13.5 while the bike is running things are fine. If the volts drop into the upper 12's it is iffy that the battery is going to maintain a full charge.

This my experience but not science so correct me if I am wrong.

Regards,

Randy
 
While we're on this electrifying topic...
4_1_107v.gif
We've got a magneto under the plastic; What's the practical difference between that and an alternator or a generator?
Is there andy particular advantage that one design holds over the others, or is this a case of picking which simply would work best in this application?
 
While we're on this electrifying topic...
4_1_107v.gif
We've got a magneto under the plastic; What's the practical difference between that and an alternator or a generator?
Is there andy particular advantage that one design holds over the others, or is this a case of picking which simply would work best in this application?
The magneto charging system on the Spyder is an alternator. It is what as known as a permanent magnet alternator. These are often used on motorcycles, snowmobiles, and ATVs because they are often smaller, and provide reliable output under high heat conditions. Basically, it is what is right for this application and the amount of available space in the engine case.
 
I can't remember what the wattage draw is for the heated gear but since the regulator pulses the power off and on to control temperature it is a fraction of what the rated wattages total at any one time
 
Measured Voltage

I'll confirm what Bluestratos said. I checked various combinations of gear and equipment and it all came out OK. Specifically, at rest the battery V was 12.86 measured at the battery.

Now, at idle with all lights on (incl factory fog lights -- 35 W each) I measured 13.88 V at the battery, 1300/1400 rpm. Adding the vest dropped it to 13.84.

Adding front grips on Hi Heat dropped it to 13.81, adding rear grips to 13.78 V. At idle.

At 3,000 rpm with both grips on Hi and the vest, I measured 13.82.

I repeated all measurements a couple days later and got virtually identical measurements.

The factory spec in the BRP manual is: lights on hi-beam, grips on Hi, no other lights or accessories, i.e., no fog lights. Voltage should be 13.0 - 14.0 V at 4,000 rpm.

Based on my measurements, I felt totally comfortable running with fog lights, and two heated vests and grips on high. As with Bluestratos, we have the vest controls that pulse on and off rather than wasting full power. Been running like that since it got cold and all is well. If I were to get stuck in non-moving traffic, I'd probably turn off the fog lights for an extra margin of safety, and you'd naturally cut back on the grips and vest as there would be no high speed cold air flow. Further margin of safety.

My Goldwing had 1,000 W capacity and this is "only" 650 but it seems quite capable and even does well at idle, in spite of the "magneto". Now if you talk pant liners, socks, gloves, heated seats, etc., I'm sure you could finally go too far but if you need all that, it's time to get out your snowmobile.
 
Spyder Atts

Thanks for all the answers and suggestions, I took some more to heart than others especially the Everclear and apple juice, well actually never got into the rest of the experiment after that.
Andy:joke:
 
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