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Spark Plug Torque ??

Firefly

Active member
Just put the NGK Iridium plugs in... shop manual says 19 N/M (168 lbf/in)...:yikes:

No way was I going to torque it that tight--- I started to and could just feel this was a bad idea..... just went with what I thought was good instead.


Anyone else????
 
168 inch pounds equals...

about 14 FT Lbs. Many motor vehicles on the roads today use 14 to 20 FT lbs on the spark plugs. And the manual calls for 168 inch pounds. /ken
 
:dontknow:
Just put the NGK Iridium plugs in... shop manual says 19 N/M (168 lbf/in)...:yikes:

No way was I going to torque it that tight--- I started to and could just feel this was a bad idea..... just went with what I thought was good instead.


Anyone else????

Did it the same, I've always done it by feel. I hope :pray: with the slime they
want you to use on the threads i didn't lose the feel. :dontknow:
 
I have never been a fan of torquing spark plugs. The gasket makes a good torque reading difficult (and sudden). I don't recommend you follow my lead, but that has always worked for me. Be sure to choke up on the ratchet, especially with aluminum heads. If you do torque the plugs, sneak up on the setting, as you should when torquing anything. For 14 lbf-ft, go 8-10 first run, increase to 12, then do the final torque to 14.

Those plugs look a bit rich down deep, but the tips are lean (most recent operating range. I'd say you still have some adjustments to do in some ranges. Keep in mind that it is very diificult to read plugs with today's engines and today's fuels. Lean engines burning part ethanol gas don't leave much color. It is also very difficult to do the reading right, for the most part...running full throttle then cutting the fuel and ignition simultaneously, and coasting to a stop to read the plugs. You can't get good readings at other throttle conditions, either. That is why oxygen sensors and exhaust gas analyzers are in use these days.
 
I have never been a fan of torquing spark plugs. The gasket makes a good torque reading difficult (and sudden). I don't recommend you follow my lead, but that has always worked for me. Be sure to choke up on the ratchet, especially with aluminum heads. If you do torque the plugs, sneak up on the setting, as you should when torquing anything. For 14 lbf-ft, go 8-10 first run, increase to 12, then do the final torque to 14.

Those plugs look a bit rich down deep, but the tips are lean (most recent operating range. I'd say you still have some adjustments to do in some ranges. Keep in mind that it is very diificult to read plugs with today's engines and today's fuels. Lean engines burning part ethanol gas don't leave much color. It is also very difficult to do the reading right, for the most part...running full throttle then cutting the fuel and ignition simultaneously, and coasting to a stop to read the plugs. You can't get good readings at other throttle conditions, either. That is why oxygen sensors and exhaust gas analyzers are in use these days.

Thanks for the input... I've got the new plugs in now... seems to run smoother... but that could be just me.....

I know I was running rich before when I had my fuel pressure up at 63... now it's back down to 52 and I'm using the JB to add more fuel.

I also had a leak in the righthand y gasket.... just replaced both with the Honda version...

Now just need to do oil change and lube and I'll ready for Cuba.
 
BRP states it is a good idea (required) to install some thermal paste on the spark plugs when install or reinstalling them.

Hope that helps.
Cheers.
 
Just put the NGK Iridium plugs in... shop manual says 19 N/M (168 lbf/in)...:yikes:

No way was I going to torque it that tight--- I started to and could just feel this was a bad idea..... just went with what I thought was good instead.


Anyone else????


Hi Firefly. How hard was it to change out your Plugs.? Did you use the BRP paste on the threads ? :dontknow:
 
NancysToy is giving good advice on the...

proper way to torque any bolt or fastener... always sneak up on the final measurement. And always pull slow and steady on the wrench... don't just snap pull it... again slow and steady. /Ken
 
Hi Firefly. How hard was it to change out your Plugs.? Did you use the BRP paste on the threads ? :dontknow:

I used the Radio Shack paste as it was easy to get....and cheap.:thumbup:

The plugs were easy to change.... mainly because I no longer have that big black airbox installed. The front one will be a bear to get at with the airbox in place--- so I think you'll have to pull the airbox to do it.

The rear one is really easy to get at.
 
Removing that airbox is probably my favorite thing I've done to the Spyder. Nevermind the performance enhancement, it really opens up the engine compartment and makes working on it so much easier.
 
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