• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Spark Plugs - do you use anti-seize?

I've always used anti seize compound on spark plugs in aluminum heads.

Common practice for everyone I know who tracks a car.

Have specifically done this for 7 years on my 750 hp car and my track car, both w aluminum heads. Also common practice back when we had Seadoos. Never an issue.

Both my cars run NGK plugs also. :dontknow:
 
I'm with the...!!

Heat-sink crowd. If you get your plugs from bajaron it comes with this paste. Different formulations...don't want to find out why..they say use heat-sink thats what I'll use. Fixing threads or removing broken plugs can run into big bucks...:lecturef_smilie:
 
For the little amount of $$$ the heat sink is, why chance it to anti sieze? Not worth the chance if screwing something up. And in the long run, you really only saved maybe....$3.
 
Bob Denman said:
Heat-sink paste, is the stuff that they want you to use...
Why argue with the folks who built the bike? :dontknow:
Click to expand...


As far as the bike, if I ever get to the point of needing plugs I'll remember that, I thought this was from NGK...not BRP.
 
SNOOPY said:
As far as the bike, if I ever get to the point of needing plugs I'll remember that, I thought this was from NGK...not BRP.
Click to expand...


Both the anti seize and correct heat sink paste will keep the threads from locking/galling. The heat sink paste conducts heat much better keeping the plug tip the correct designed temperature to prevent preignition in high rpm use. Its a relatively minor difference but the correct one for the application. Not likely that the anti seize would do any harm or insulate well enough that most of us could tell the difference.....
 
Been changing plugs for 50 years... never put anything on them... guess I'll just keep on doing what has been working this long...
 
Aluminum alloy and spark plugs.... not a question of getting the plug out of the head. The trouble is getting the heat out of the plug and into the aluminum that holds it. Aluminum conveys heat very well, thats the reason it is used for heat sinks and radiators. So we have a very hot spark plug in a cold chunk of aluminum. Doesn't take too long for the expansion and contraction differential to make a mess of the softer aluminum. I like the idea of heat paste and have used it on electronic components for 40 years. By the way, I bought the paste from BRP for my own bikes. Got enough to do maybe 500 plugs. Sure wish they sold it in smaller tubes.
 
SNOOPY said:
I've always used anti seize compound on spark plugs in aluminum heads.

Common practice for everyone I know who tracks a car.

Have specifically done this for 7 years on my 750 hp car and my track car, both w aluminum heads. Also common practice back when we had Seadoos. Never an issue.

Both my cars run NGK plugs also. :dontknow:
Click to expand...
Same deal in the jet ski world for sure. Try getting a plug out of a kawi ultra head where no antiseize was used......you'll learn how to pull a head REAL quick.

The spyder is the only machine I've ever owned where the heat sink paste is recommended. Its cheap so I bought some and used it.

I honestly think either would be fine. Remember, your not using much.

Plugs sticking in the head are even a bigger problem with the small diameter plugs.....
 
How many dealers are using the heat sink paste? My previous dealer didn't. :mad:

Most plugs now have the Trivalent coating. So anti seize isn't needed. The cheaper plugs don't have the coating. I use the heat sink coating.
 
jcthorne said:
Both the anti seize and correct heat sink paste will keep the threads from locking/galling. The heat sink paste conducts heat much better keeping the plug tip the correct designed temperature to prevent preignition in high rpm use. Its a relatively minor difference but the correct one for the application. Not likely that the anti seize would do any harm or insulate well enough that most of us could tell the difference.....
Click to expand...


Thanks. Good info. Not really use to this high rev world. My cars blow up at 6500 plus RPMs :yikes:
 
bgame said:
Been changing plugs for 50 years... never put anything on them... guess I'll just keep on doing what has been working this long...
Click to expand...


I learned a few years back not being able to get a plug out of an aluminum head work van. :banghead:


.
 
INFO

GOOD INFO......
saved this link for future reference....
THANX....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R
 
Anti-Seize is an insulator which makes the spark plug retain heat.

Heat Sink Paste is a conductor which allows the spark plug to shed heat more efficiently to the head.

Spark plugs come in various heat ranges. The proper heat range is designated by the engine manufacturer.

Hotter plugs retain more heat, colder plugs retain less heat. Rule of thumb is, you want the coldest plug you can run without fouling. Heat keeps deposits from building up on the spark plug. But it also promotes pre-ignition (knock) which is extremely detrimental to an engine. You can't always hear knocking. Only when it is severe can you hear it.

The Spyder, as do all modern engines, has anti-knock systems which prevent knock by retarding the timing (which cools the cylinder which in turn cools the spark plug and other combustion chamber components which are getting too hot and causing the pre-ignition (knock). This retarding also costs you power and fuel mileage as the engine is not running at peak efficiency.

So, if you're using Anti-Seize on your spark plug threads you are basically raising its heat range by virtue of restricting the spark plugs ability to shed excess heat to the head. With Heat Sink Paste you are allowing the spark plug to shed heat more efficiently, and this helps the plug maintain its rated heat range.

How much difference does this make? Only the BRP engineers know the answer to this. But they thought it important enough to require it. Do dealers do this? Do most back yard mechanics do it? I don't know. But I recommend it and that's why I provide the Heat Sink Paste with my ignition sets.
 
Ron,
As usual; a VERY nice explanation of why this stuff is important! :clap: :2thumbs:
Did you ever intern with Scotty? :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Just completed my 1330 spark plug change!
Replies
12
Views
2K
Knizar
K
dlwilliams48
Battery drained after 3 & 1/2 weeks standing, cranking slow, and throwing VSS Error - is this normal? Any help appreciated...
2
Replies
22
Views
808
dlwilliams48
dlwilliams48
V
Bummed out waiting for a part
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
old Timer
O
WRCLVR
I updated OTA software/firmware on my 2024 S2S - anyone else seen the back-up camera option?
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
mickimause
M
ISpydrF3S
F3-T Stuck in First Gear (Ostensibly) and Won't Start?
Replies
8
Views
1K
ISpydrF3S
ISpydrF3S
Back
Top