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Sway Bar Install In So Cal

The ramps that I was looking at would give only 15 inches of lift (from the base of the wheels) so I won't get the job done with these.

Will have to look for some another solution.

Thank you for the reply!

Standard automotive ramps are not going to get the job done, as you say. They can be used as a good start towards your final lift and for doing the rest of the work, before and after the short bar swap step. The ramps I and others have suggested are as the attached picture. You will need 2 of these and something like this truck tailgate, a level wall, etc., to place them on. Then you can roll your Spyder up far enough to get the needed height to do the job. Not a solution for everyone. But some people already have everything needed (or can borrow it) and it works out well for them.

A standard floor jack or ATV jack will also work, though it will usually require a lift, support, cribbing on the jack and lift again to get to the needed height.

AF-9012-HD__4.jpg
 
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Thanks for giving me a possible Spyder go to in riverside! I ended up catching a deal on a jack and 21” jack stands at Sears. I may have to add some plywood for the jack but seems like the highest available at around 18”. I got Jack and stands for $150 due to sales and my wife had some points lol.

Here’s the Jack: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-1500-lb-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950191000P

Make sure you read the 1 star reviews for this. SCARY
 
Make sure you read the 1 star reviews for this. SCARY

I don't mean to sound sarcastic but for every thousand good experiences, there will be a bad one. And the bad ones are always more vocal than the good ones. I have a HF jack that is similar but I believe inferior in quality. It has served me well for many lifts. I have no problem relying on it. I bought it on Craigs List from a guy who had sold his bike. Paid 50 bucks for it and it
saved me more than double my investment the first time I used it...... I just can't imagine having to run to the dealer with wallet open every time the bike needs to go in the air..... Jim
 
@BajaRon I saw somewhere that there is an updated 2.3 manual. Is this manual needed for a 2017 F3-S? Is the install different?

The only real difference is that BRP added some frame channel stiffeners in the later model F3 & RT's which must be removed/replaced. The earlier instructions did not have this step. But these stiffeners are a no-brainer, very obvious step which many people did without issue before I was able to change the instructions.
 
I agree with what others have said. It is very easy to do the install yourself, but if you are intent on paying someone to do it. This is the man to go to. Lou (Pirate Powersports) in Riverside, Ca. 951-757-9143. He was the only mechanic I trusted with my Spyder when I lived in So Cal.

When you do need work done, Lou is your guy. Far more knowledgeable (and reasonable in what he charges) than any dealer I know of.
 
The ramps that I was looking at would give only 15 inches of lift (from the base of the wheels) so I won't get the job done with these.

Will have to look for some another solution.

Thank you for the reply!
It looks like we were thinking of the same ramps. In the end, how did you manage to get the required clearance? The tailgate on my truck isn't rated for the weight of the Spyder front end so I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a truck and using heavy-duty loading ramps. Even a flat bed trailer would do if the floor is at least 24-25" off the ground.
 
It looks like we were thinking of the same ramps. In the end, how did you manage to get the required clearance? The tailgate on my truck isn't rated for the weight of the Spyder front end so I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a truck and using heavy-duty loading ramps. Even a flat bed trailer would do if the floor is at least 24-25" off the ground.
This was posted in 2019, but I did mine off a set of car ramp off the floor, yes, it was tight, and yes, it was a 2012 RTL, but I got it done!!!
 
It looks like we were thinking of the same ramps. In the end, how did you manage to get the required clearance? The tailgate on my truck isn't rated for the weight of the Spyder front end so I'm thinking of renting/borrowing a truck and using heavy-duty loading ramps. Even a flat bed trailer would do if the floor is at least 24-25" off the ground.
You only need 18-20 inches of clearance if you are leaving the rear wheel on the ground. You need 24" from the frame member holding the bar to the ground. Which starts out 4-5 inches above the floor. Angling the Spyder gives additional clearance because the bar comes out vertically from the plane of the frame.

Only during the actual removal of the bar and installation of the new bar (if you are getting the Original BajaRon bar) is this amount of clearance requred. All other steps (before and after) can be done at a much lower elevation. If you are installing the Ultra-Bar, this height is only necessary during the bar removal step.

I am surprised that the tailgate will not hold the weight. People have used just about anything with a tailgate successfully.
 
I did a few on a friends ramps, one on a 4 post lift with the center panel removed under the front of the Spyder and the latest one a few weeks ago lifting one wheel with a hoist that I used to lift a heavy sliding 5th hitch out of my truck. Notice I had a safety line running off the upper side of the wheel incase it tried to turn turtle on me. I get them all ready on the ground sway the bars and back on the ground to finish the job. I get to the bolts for the mounts from the top/slides.

Sway Bar.jpgWA sway bar.jpg
 
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