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To Lift the Roadster

Well done..!!

now that is lifting a spyder..!! :2thumbs: I could handle the adaptors but couldn't get that lift in my garage...:roflblack: Great job...!!
 
well, i know what i'm doing this weekend. Going to the metal fab shop and telling them to make me this for my shop. Been looking at doing some mods to my alignment rack to get the spyder up there, but i like the simplicity of this. Much easier to store than another ramp and rolling jack system on the alignment rack.


Thanks for sharing!
 
Could you take a few measures of the box frame so I can give the fab shop a good starting point?
I showed my other half the photos and he said "how much does he want for that? I'll buy it..." 😀
 
I can give you the measurements, but there were some angles that had to be done on site. If I have some time I'll post a video detailing how I did it. I should have time before we leave on Friday. I'll try anyway! It works well for my trailer, too. I just put a board down on the back, turn the trailer around and pop the wheels into the singles and set the tongue on the board on the double. I lift each wheel individually with a transmission jack. I'll see what I can do.
 
I overbuilt it by a factor of five. It is strong enough to lift 5,000 lbs easily. When I fabricate, I make stuff to last. Also wasn't sure if I would be servicing anyone else's machine at a later date, so factored that in. Good luck and post your finished product for us! I'll hold off on the video unless you need it then.
 
hey Doc when you get a chance, could you take a few measurements of the box frame for the wheels for me. I'm going to have a metal fab company make me this for my lifts. I know my adapter portion will be different than yours due to rack differences, but box frames should be the same.

With that setup, you got enough room to put a transmission jack stand in there to lift a wheel off the box frame for tire removal/replacement?
 
nikki.ullis said:
hey Doc when you get a chance, could you take a few measurements of the box frame for the wheels for me. I'm going to have a metal fab company make me this for my lifts. I know my adapter portion will be different than yours due to rack differences, but box frames should be the same.

With that setup, you got enough room to put a transmission jack stand in there to lift a wheel off the box frame for tire removal/replacement?
Click to expand...
Yes, exactly. Trans jack works great. I am on vacation right now, but will be back Monday or Tuesday. I can get you the dimensions then, but I'll tell you how I did it. I measured across the tire and added 6" to the width. Length I wanted to really seat the tire so it couldn't move, so I took 80% of the length. I plan on possibly servicing the new Slingshot and other 3 wheelers that show up on the market eventually so I tried to make them large enough to accommodate the future. The rear one I added a little more width and used that 80% of length.

What I really like about the design is that you raise up the tire from the frame enough to swing the lift arm completely out of the way. Think I will use an adjustable exhaust stand to back-up the jack in that case. Twenty cent O rings scare me. Too easy to fail. Anyway, I'll get you the exact deminsions when I get back!
 
OK, actual dimensions of the boxes are:

Fronts: 9" X 12" ID

Rear: 12" X 12" ID

I used heavy gauge steel on all components with gusset welding. Good luck!
 
Pictures 1 of 3

one.jpg
Started with 71 lbs of thick wall steel.
one.1.jpg
On the left are the four round solid steel pieces that fit perfectly into the extenders of the lift. I had the steel people cut them 1/2" above the lip.
two.jpg
Since each arm was a little bit angled a little differently (my lift is both symmetrical and asymmetrical) I had to dry fit each so that I had a flat base bar to work with. The advanage to going over the top of the round pieces was to ease the downward pressure.
three.jpg
I gusset braced the corners front and back. The bottom piece is 3/4" thick. All metal was hot rolled. The thickest portions were welded at 135 amps with my 220 stick welder. I wanted as deep a penetration as I could for the greatest cohesion.
four.jpg
Here is the first single I completed. I like the fact that it can be rotated and should fit any future application.
 
2 of 3

five.jpg
For the rear tire I made a cage like the front, except it extended across to both read arms.
six.jpg
Here is another angle.
seven.jpg
Again, gusset braced on all corners.
eight.jpg
I added two additional braces. I allowed an additional 4" overall width between them for future applications.
nine.jpg
Also gusset braced front and back on both sides.
 
3 of 3

ten.jpg
Here is the completed adaptors. The bike is brought in and stopped with the rear tire touching the blue center lift plate. You then put the rear adaptor in place and center it and adjust it so that the weight is equal. You then move the front arms behind the front tires. You roll the bike back so the rear tire just touches the back adaptor. You then move each of the front adaptors so that they touch the rear of front tires. When that is done, roll the bike forward to the blue plate and push it back hard enough she jumps over the lip and settles into position.
elleven.jpg
This shows the bike in position ready to be lifted.
twelve.jpg
Had to make sure it would hold the bike and an additional 250 lb fat man.
thirteen.jpg
The nice thing about the way this works is that it:
1. Allows you to lift any one of the 3 points and support it, even moving the arms out of the way for better access. (I will use a fixed support for this rather than a trans jack due to the remote chance of O ring failure)
2. Complete unobstructed access to the entire underneath of the bike.
3. With the tires locked in place I am using the strongest combination to keep the bike in place without straining any other area of the bike that is not designed to be lifted from.
This was more work and yeah, I could have cut some corners, but tonight my Roadster is up on the lift and I have not one single worry that it might fall overnight. That piece of mind for me is priceless.
 
Size of boxes

Doc Humphreys said:
OK, actual dimensions of the boxes are:

Fronts: 9" X 12" ID

Rear: 12" X 12" ID

I used heavy gauge steel on all components with gusset welding. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I really like the design and am going to build the same to use with my two post lift. When you say the rear box is 12" x !2" - does that mean after you put in the two inside braces - giving you approx. 3 12 x 12 boxes - thus the full size of the rear section is approx. 12" x 36" ? Also, what size and thickness was the steel square tubing you used? Just want to clarify before I buy material. Great job and pics..
 
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